I wonder if it would be practical to run 2-inch thru the cabinet, and passing that last bit through some bit of carpentry.Something like 40 inches.
I wonder if it would be practical to run 2-inch thru the cabinet, and passing that last bit through some bit of carpentry.Something like 40 inches.
The holes seem pretty uniform in their distances from the front edges of the studs. And I find that a 1.5" PVC pipe wollers around in them pretty good, except for in the king stud. [edited: I mistakenly referred to jack stud.]As to the holes, if the pipe will fit, that's fine. But if you are only testing the holes one at a time, you may find out they are not aligned in the dimension perpendicular to the wall.
If you can drill your new 2" holes accurately enough, it will work, but it's hard to be that accurate. You could make a guide fixture to ensure your new holes are the same distance from the front edge of each stud, and then find out those front edges aren't actually all in plane with each other.
So 2-1/8" is a practical minimum.
Cheers, Wayne
Probably? Just like the Fernco or Mission banded coupling will probably accommodate 1 degree of bend if necessary? PVC is inexpensive, so it doesn't hurt to try it, if you can get the pipe fully seated in the coupling with adequate solvent cement, it shouldn't leak.Will the PVC couplings be forgiving enough to handle some slight zigzagging without leakage or other ill effects?
It won't be the PVC couplings that bend as much as the pipe will bend with forces over a distance. If you want to cheat, you can glue Spa Flex into a pvc coupling. http://media.wattswater.com/ES-SpaFlexHose.pdfWill the PVC couplings be forgiving enough to handle some slight zigzagging without leakage or other ill effects?
I wouldn't expect the couplings to bend, just that the pipe could go into the coupling a little out of line and yet not leak.It won't be the PVC couplings that bend as much as the pipe will bend with forces over a distance. If you want to cheat, you can glue Spa Flex into a pvc coupling. http://media.wattswater.com/ES-SpaFlexHose.pdf
Okay, between the banded coupling and some slightly crooked joints, I guess I can get enough slope. Really I don't know why there doesn't seem to be such a thing as a 1.2-degree elbow.Probably? Just like the Fernco or Mission banded coupling will probably accommodate 1 degree of bend if necessary? PVC is inexpensive, so it doesn't hurt to try it, if you can get the pipe fully seated in the coupling with adequate solvent cement, it shouldn't leak.
Cheers, Wayne
Sounds like a bad idea to me. In the store, maybe find a pipe with a set to it.I wouldn't expect the couplings to bend, just that the pipe could go into the coupling a little out of line and yet not leak.
The slope of the inch of elbow after the p-trap u-bend is what it is. But from there to the san-tee (or other vent) the trap arm needs to be sloped 1/4" per foot.Is the slope of a P trap horizontal section also supposed to be 1/4" per foot? I am not seeing how to give it slope when the sink tail pipe is vertical.
Are you talking about a slip joint trap? You can raise and lower the connection to the tail piece within limits. If you cannot raise the connection a bit, cut a bit off of the tailpiece.I'm close to finishing this job, which includes replacing the sink traps. Is the slope of a P trap horizontal section also supposed to be 1/4" per foot? I am not seeing how to give it slope when the sink tail pipe is vertical.
A picture would help. Sounds like a load bearing wall, so some reinforcement is likely in order.
Cheers, Wayne
This is awkward, but...
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