Increase ABS DWV glue up (working) time (perhaps use an epoxy?)

Users who are viewing this thread

Brian J. Murrell

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Ontario
I am installing a freestanding tub in a cove that the tub just fits in. That means there is no ability for two people to just lift the ends of the tub and drop it into place in one motion, onto the ABS waste pipe coming up through the floor.

So I have to set the tub up on a couple of 2x4s at each end (to be able to get under it and apply the ABS glue to both fittings) and lower it down by pulling out a 2x4 on each end until it's on the floor. This will effect lowering the ABS drain pipe under the tub onto the ABS waste piping going into the p-trap under the floor.

The concern I have is with the working time of standard ABS cement and whether I will get the 4 2x4s pulled out and the tub on the floor before the ABS joint starts to set -- which in my experience starts to happen within only a small number of seconds after the joint is pushed together.

Any advise on how to extend the working time of ABS cement?

The manufacturer of the tub suggests an epoxy (such as JB Weld) as an alternative to ABS cement. I have never used such but wonder if they are suggesting an epoxy for extended working time with the tub-to-waste connection.

FWIW, I have looked into drop in drains to make all of this much easier but I don't have enough headroom between the (first floor) ceiling and the (second floor -- where this tub is being installed) subfloor.
 

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,946
Reaction score
3,460
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
I normally set the tub drain first and then drop the tub down over it if I don't have access from below.
I assemble the tub drain to the tub first, then remove it.
Checking my measurements, I set the drain onto the p-trap, and then I'm able to drop the tub down, thread in the lower drain and assemble the W&O at the top.

accord_wild_3.jpg


accord_wild_05.jpg
 

Brian J. Murrell

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Ontario
Hi Terry. Appreciate the response. Yeah, that's what I am used to with a standard type tub.

In this case, the drain is already assembled into the tub (with no way to reassemble it to the waste if I removed it before installing the tub as it has a nut underneath the tub) with a threaded fitting under the tub and they provide an ABS coupler that is threaded on one end to attach to the tub and accepts a standard 1½" ABS pipe coming up from the floor on the other end and you are expected to be able to just drop the ABS coupler already threaded onto the tub drain onto the waste pipe coming up from the floor. Given that this is a freestanding tub that would be pretty easy if two people were able to lift and drop it from the two ends of the tub (i.e. away from walls, etc.), but the cove in this case makes that impossible.

Here's the tub installation instructions for reference. I have the tub in place already, up on the 2x4s so the part of getting it ready to drop down is already done. I am just concerned about time it will take to pull the 2x4s it's on out and starting to lower it, and the ABS weld (assuming using cement) starting to set up before I get all 4 2x4s out and tub fully on the floor.

Getting enough time is the key here.
 

Brian J. Murrell

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Ontario
Hi Terry. Yeah, I am fully aware of such solutions and would have very much done exactly that but per my original message:

FWIW, I have looked into drop in drains to make all of this much easier but I don't have enough headroom between the (first floor) ceiling and the (second floor -- where this tub is being installed) subfloor.

Most of those solution require many inches of headroom. The one you pointed out for example requires an 8" joist space. Installation is in a 100+ year old house where bigger beefier (more square) beams were used between floors rather than today's joists so they didn't (need to) make them as thick and the headroom isn't anywhere near what we have today.

Much thanks for the suggestion though. It would have been invaluable had I had the headroom to employ it.
 

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,753
Reaction score
2,164
Points
113
Location
92346
Cut an access from the ceiling below and glue the trap on after the tub is set?

Cheers, Wayne
That's the way I like but customers are funny about holes in lid. just a wild guess but an access panel in lid might not be objectional
So how in the world do you ever remove such a tub?
lots of glue , work fast , perhaps chill the glue (just throwing that out there) never tried it but 100 degree glue going to dry faster than 60
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,946
Reaction score
3,460
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
Epoxy is A bad idea. ABS cement does not glue things together, it chemically welds them.

I say glue the fittings, because it's too many words to say how they are actually installed. Maybe it's because I sucked in too much of those toxic fumes over the years. I'm going to solvent weld those fittings, well of course, but I like sound of the glue word better, even though I know that's not how it works.
 

Tuttles Revenge

In the Trades
Messages
4,132
Reaction score
1,410
Points
113
I would go with Terrys solution of the freestanding tub drain body. Since its below the tub and never seen, you could lift it above the rough floor and maybe place it on the finish floor. Also, you could make a trap using all street 90's so that your trap is angled and not as deep. Play round with the street 90's till you find the right angle. Not as great at a normal trap.. may need more frequent cups of water every week rather than the normal every 3 weeks due to the typical non usage of soaking tubs.

Also you could offset the trap to a wall, and run the drain over to the trap.
 

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,753
Reaction score
2,164
Points
113
Location
92346
I say glue the fittings, because it's too many words to say how they are actually installed. Maybe it's because I sucked in too much of those toxic fumes over the years. I'm going to solvent weld those fittings, well of course, but I like sound of the glue word better, even though I know that's not how it works.
Maybe we should charge higher prices to solvent weld instead of glueing ha ha
 

Tuttles Revenge

In the Trades
Messages
4,132
Reaction score
1,410
Points
113
Also, buy 4 of the Suction cup "Grab Bars" at the box store.. they are great for lifting those big tubs when you cant get all the way around them. Or place a nylon tie down style strap under the tub and tie it over the top.. then you can just cut the strap and either pull it out from under or cut it off flush and stuff the extra under the tub.

suction-cup-grab-bar-2.jpg
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks