Incoming water line

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Midnight

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Hi all. I have a quick question, of course I might be back if I have trouble with this project. Here goes. What material is the incoming pipe from my submersible well? It is solid black, is 1 inch and has no markings. It feels like hard plastic. Is it pvc? I'm trying to replace the pressure tank along with the fixtures going to it, but I kind of needed to know what this pipe is made of. Thanks for any help.
 

Flapper

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You cannot use PEX barb fittings on HDPE, you must use barb insert fittings. HDPE is not "HDPex".
 
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Reach4

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What material is the incoming pipe from my submersible well? It is solid black, is 1 inch and has no markings. It feels like hard plastic. Is it pvc? I'm trying to replace the pressure tank along with the fixtures going to it, but I kind of needed to know what this pipe is made of.
Why-- are you planning to replace the barbed fitting in the polyethylene ( HDPE) pipe?

http://www.petersenproducts.com/Specifications/Pipe_HDPE.aspx edit: looks like I linked to the wrong stuff.
 
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Craigpump

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I would bet that you are dealing with poly pipe, either 200 psi, 160 psi, 125 psi or possibly 100 psi. On a rare occasion we see 80 psi poly, but that's on old jet pump installations.

In the pump trade they are called insert adapters. Insert x male, insert x insert, insert x insert 90,
 

Reach4

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I would bet that you are dealing with poly pipe, either 200 psi, 160 psi, 125 psi or possibly 100 psi. On a rare occasion we see 80 psi poly, but that's on old jet pump installations.

In the pump trade they are called insert adapters. Insert x male, insert x insert, insert x insert 90,
Looking at the dimensions, I was surprised that they are sized with the same OD but different IDs. That would imply that its going to be much tougher getting the 200 PSI poly pipe over the barbs.
 

Flapper

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Looking at the dimensions, I was surprised that they are sized with the same OD but different IDs. That would imply that its going to be much tougher getting the 200 PSI poly pipe over the barbs.
It should still be easy to insert if you heat up the end of the pipe until it is soft. A tighter fit would make a better connection, I think.
 

Reach4

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The ID is the same, the OD is different.
Thanks. I see that the poly for wells conforms to ASTM D2239, where the ID stays the same. Having the ID differ would make things wacky for finding barbs.

http://www.charterplastics.com/pipe/ calls this IDR, and https://plasticpipe.org/pdf/chapter06.pdf says IDR = ID -Controlled Pipe Dimension Ratio.

https://www.astm.org/Standards/D2239.htm says the D2239 spec is "Standard Specification for Polyethylene (PE) Plastic Pipe (SIDR-PR) Based on Controlled Inside Diameter". http://www.carlonsales.com/techinfo/faqs/FAQ-HDPE.pdf says "SIDR stands for Standard Inside Diameter Ratio, which is the inside diameter divided by the wall thickness."
 
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Midnight

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Ok first off as the OP thank you everyone for the info. Now here's the next step. I'm about to replace the current pressure tank (pictured). Maybe I'm clueless, but as I look at the fixtures it looks to me (untrained) that by loosening one part it will just tighten the one further down the line. Hope I'm making sense. Example by trying to loosen the check valve connected to the tee will that just tighten the other side of the check valve connected to the 2" or so length of copper pipe connected to the elbow? How would you guys, who know much more then myself break this down and redo it? Again thanks for the help, and I know I should just call a plumber, but I kind of like to do things myself.
 

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Smooky

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You have to have a starting point where you can take it apart such as at a union or in your case it might be where the black pipe is attached with the worm gear clamp. You need two pipe wrenches (or 2 pairs of channel-locks etc.) to take the brass joints apart. One pipe wrench holds and the other turns. If you only use one pipe wrench, it might seperate at another joint. You use two at each joint so that joint is loosened or so that joint is tightened properly.
 
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Reach4

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I am not a pro... if you hold C (or D) and turn B CCW, does B turn separately from C?

img_3.jpg
 

Breplum

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You can't disassemble what you have there. There should have been unions, but there are not.
And you can't pull that brass barbed fitting out to perform the disassembly.
What you can do is cut the brass nipple "A" and replace with brass nipples and a union.
Question for you: What program did you use to add the nice colored letters?
 

Reach4

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What is part BCD, a checkvalve? If so, that should probably be remove if this is for a submersible pump system. With the color separation between B and C, I was hoping that B was not part of casting C.

Question for you: What program did you use to add the nice colored letters?
Paint (comes with Windows).
 
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