In need of advice basement plumbing rough in DWV

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James Henry

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You can make the laundry sink vent 1-1/2". I just want to stress to you not to manhandle the cast iron drain in the ground because you might cause a leak. be careful and methodical. I hope it all works out.
 

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You can make the laundry sink vent 1-1/2". I just want to stress to you not to manhandle the cast iron drain in the ground because you might cause a leak. be careful and methodical. I hope it all works out.
I will be careful but probably just going to cut it where old toilet connects and replace all the main floor stuff as well. The cast iron is allready cracked where upstairs tub connects to that wye but it doesn’t leak but with my luck I’ll finish the basement and it will leak day after lol
 

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I forgot that this was another way to do it.
 

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I will be careful but probably just going to cut it where old toilet connects and replace all the main floor stuff as well. The cast iron is allready cracked where upstairs tub connects to that wye but it doesn’t leak but with my luck I’ll finish the basement and it will leak day after lol
I forgot that this was another way to do it.
i gotta give it to you guys pluming is net easy especially dwv portion
I forgot that this was another way to do it.
hey James do I need to have a cleanout anywhere or is it ok to snake through lav?
 

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You don't need clean out's on the sinks and sometimes you have to remove a toilet to snake a drain, but you do need a clean out at the base of the stack and you can face it in the bathroom or on the opposite side of the wall, it's better in the bathroom, but it's your choice. Also, after looking at a drawing I made it looked deceiving so I wanted to make sure that you understood that the reason I included a double stud wall was so you could run the drain for the laundry sink up through the outside wall so the drain wouldn't be in the way of the the tub / shower valve and riser.
 

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You don't need clean out's on the sinks and sometimes you have to remove a toilet to snake a drain, but you do need a clean out at the base of the stack and you can face it in the bathroom or on the opposite side of the wall, it's better in the bathroom, but it's your choice. Also, after looking at a drawing I made it looked deceiving so I wanted to make sure that you understood that the reason I included a double stud wall was so you could run the drain for the laundry sink up through the outside wall so the drain wouldn't be in the way of the the tub / shower valve and riser.
I was going to put on in wall facing closet in bedroom behind for the stack
And I did see your double wall and it is not a problem the bathroom is 65” any how so I can fur out the wet wall to fit the tub in that area
 

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Hey James I assume you wanted old pipe for floor and laundry moved concerned about pitch

I am able to achieve mor then required pitch and I wonder if it be of to cut laundry pipe under wall and roll a wye up to vent it and then run drain in same path picture attached
Nothing is glued all dry fit and i got started late cause of children and wife needs so only been down for half hr
 

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Hey James I assume you wanted old pipe for floor and laundry moved concerned about pitch

I am able to achieve mor then required pitch and I wonder if it be of to cut laundry pipe under wall and roll a wye up to vent it and then run drain in same path picture attached
Nothing is glued all dry fit and i got started late cause of children and wife needs so only been down for half hr
Hey James I assume you wanted old pipe for floor and laundry moved concerned about pitch

I am able to achieve mor then required pitch and I wonder if it be of to cut laundry pipe under wall and roll a wye up to vent it and then run drain in same path picture attached
Nothing is glued all dry fit and i got started late cause of children and wife needs so only been down for half hr
 

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James Henry

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Yea, theirs just a couple problems with that. if you run the tub drain over top of the floor drain the tub drain will be buried in the concrete. Drain lines have to have about 3" of clean fill dirt over top of the pipe, that's why you have to run the floor drain to the right of the tub p-trap.because the toilet and floor drain start off at the same location and they will for the most part be side by side at the same elevation so if you lay one pipe over the other it throws everything off. if the floor drain was tied into the stack lower than the toilet drain it would be a different story. do you see where I'm going with this? Your off to a good start, I just want to make a suggestion to you. Move that dirt you have piled next to the wall to outside of the bathroom and clean any broken concrete out of it before you back-fill, also move the pile of broken concrete and from now on keep them separate. If you have a regular circular saw with a concrete cutting blade you can score a nice line alone the wall and everywhere else.
 

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Yea, theirs just a couple problems with that. if you run the tub drain over top of the floor drain the tub drain will be buried in the concrete. Drain lines have to have about 3" of clean fill dirt over top of the pipe, that's why you have to run the floor drain to the right of the tub p-trap.because the toilet and floor drain start off at the same location and they will for the most part be side by side at the same elevation so if you lay one pipe over the other it throws everything off. if the floor drain was tied into the stack lower than the toilet drain it would be a different story. do you see where I'm going with this? Your off to a good start, I just want to make a suggestion to you. Move that dirt you have piled next to the wall to outside of the bathroom and clean any broken concrete out of it before you back-fill, also move the pile of broken concrete and from now on keep them separate. If you have a regular circular saw with a concrete cutting blade you can score a nice line alone the wall and everywhere else.
Yea, theirs just a couple problems with that. if you run the tub drain over top of the floor drain the tub drain will be buried in the concrete. Drain lines have to have about 3" of clean fill dirt over top of the pipe, that's why you have to run the floor drain to the right of the tub p-trap.because the toilet and floor drain start off at the same location and they will for the most part be side by side at the same elevation so if you lay one pipe over the other it throws everything off. if the floor drain was tied into the stack lower than the toilet drain it would be a different story. do you see where I'm going with this? Your off to a good start, I just want to make a suggestion to you. Move that dirt you have piled next to the wall to outside of the bathroom and clean any broken concrete out of it before you back-fill, also move the pile of broken concrete and from now on keep them separate. If you have a regular circular saw with a concrete cutting blade you can score a nice line alone the wall and everywhere else.
James I am a messy worker LOL that is how I’ve always been I get a lot done though and I believe I do a decent job well this is where it sits for tonight
 

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James I am a messy worker LOL that is how I’ve always been I get a lot done though and I believe I do a decent job well this is where it sits for tonight
James I am a messy worker LOL that is how I’ve always been I get a lot done though and I believe I do a decent job well this is where it sits for tonight
All glued up and James bathroom is 65” wide so I’ll build another 5” wide wall in front of the laundry tub and all should be well
 

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Hey James I just found out some unfortunate information that drain that came from the floor drain in laundry also has the kitchen tied into it so now I kind of feel like I’m screwed what do you suggest I do picture attached is of the kitchen drain next to the floor drain I never in 1 million years thought it would be there it just doesn’t make sense
 

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James Henry

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Try and work that out. You may need to go all the way back to the 3" x 2" fitting. You don't have much of a choice. Sorry to see that. That old drain would have been in the way no matter how you laid the pipe for the tub.
 

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Try and work that out. You may need to go all the way back to the 3" x 2" fitting. You don't have much of a choice. Sorry to see that. That old drain would have been in the way no matter how you laid the pipe for the tub.
Like this?
 

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Jeremy7835

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So rubber couplers... I have 0 leaks on the 4” bone dry but the 2” I put in tonight doesn’t seem as impressive. I did get it to stop leaking but I had to crank it super tight.. it is right in front of floor drain should I leave an access or is there a better alternative? Leaked on the pvc side surprisingly... should I get another and try again? Inspection is tomorrow and I really wanna bury all this in!
 

James Henry

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You can't put a no hub coupling on a fitting it has to be on a pipe. Thats why it leaks. Cut that 45 off and install a regular 45 with a 6" piece of pipe.
 
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