Improve water pressure/flow second floor

[Reach4]

Here are more detailed pressure drop numbers.

Gauge is on the WH drain, or where?

For approximating bypassing the PRV, maybe set the PRV pressure to 90 or higher while the softener is bypassed. I am not sure what to predict the test result would be. I would tend to think that the pressure drops will be bigger, but if the pressure drops become less, that would be interesting.

 

[Valveman]

The prv will still have a little friction loss, but if you tighten the adjustment a couple turns to the right it will be "bypassed".

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Rldev]

Gauge is on the WH drain, or where?

For approximating bypassing the PRV, maybe set the PRV pressure to 90 or higher while the softener is bypassed. I am not sure what to predict the test result would be. I would tend to think that the pressure drops will be bigger, but if the pressure drops become less, that would be interesting.

Yes I measuring the guage from the water heater drain valve.

 

[Rldev]

I will open up the prv all the way and post the results. Thank you gentlemen.

 

[Rldev]

Ok more results. I hope this clarifies some issues. Obviously I take a hit with water filtration and softening, but that isn't going to change much.

PRV fully Opened with Filters and Softener engaged
Static Pressure 79 PSI
Toilet 9-11 PSI
Laundry Sink 4-12 PSI
Both 19-26 PSI

Filters and Softener Bypassed
Static Pressure 79 PSI
Toilet 2- 10 PSI
Laundry Sink 0 - 8 PSI
Both 12 - 20 PSI

 

[Valveman]

Ok more results. I hope this clarifies some issues. Obviously I take a hit with water filtration and softening, but that isn't going to change much.

PRV fully Opened with Filters and Softener engaged
Static Pressure 79 PSI
Toilet 9-11 PSI
Laundry Sink 4-12 PSI
Both 19-26 PSI

Filters and Softener Bypassed
Static Pressure 79 PSI
Toilet 2- 10 PSI
Laundry Sink 0 - 8 PSI
Both 12 - 20 PSI

That is the best you can do without adding a booster pump.

 

[Reach4]

You could move the PRV to after the water filtration, and before the hot and cold split. Set the PRV to maybe 50 PSI.

You could have two PRVs, if you want to avoid subjecting your water treatment stuff with non- regulated pressures. But the reality is that these often have to endure 150 psi.

 

[Rldev]

You could move the PRV to after the water filtration, and before the hot and cold split. Set the PRV to maybe 50 PSI.

You could have two PRVs, if you want to avoid subjecting your water treatment stuff with non- regulated pressures. But the reality is that these often have to endure 150 psi.

I'm curious what effect this would have because I can see and feel the difference between 70 and 60 psi from any outlet in my house. The pressure is compensating for the flow, even though the flow is 10-12 GPM.

 

[Reach4]

I'm curious what effect this would have because I can see and feel the difference between 70 and 60 psi from any outlet in my house.

You can feel the difference between 60 and 70 at the kitchen sink, or you can feel the difference while you are in the shower and somebody else uses the kitchen sink?

The pressure is compensating for the flow, even though the flow is 10-12 GPM.

I do not understand what you are saying.

 

[Rldev]

You can feel the difference between 60 and 70 at the kitchen sink, or you can feel the difference while you are in the shower and somebody else uses the kitchen sink?


I do not understand what you are saying.

I notice a difference just using the kitchen sink or laundry sink or shower. Just one running.

 

[Reach4]

I notice a difference just using the kitchen sink or laundry sink or shower. Just one running.

Noticing a difference using just a laundry seems odd.

Where does the 12 gpm come into play?

 

[Rldev]

Sorry I didn't get back to you. Life in the way The 12GPM is roughly what I measured as my flow. It's actually 10-12GPM. To clarify, I set my PRV to about 70PSI. If I set it to 60PSI, it shouldn't make a difference in pressure at my fixtures, but it most definitely does. Things like my kitchen sink and showers take a noticeable hit. I hope that clarifies things.

 

[Valveman]

Sorry I didn't get back to you. Life in the way The 12GPM is roughly what I measured as my flow. It's actually 10-12GPM. To clarify, I set my PRV to about 70PSI. If I set it to 60PSI, it shouldn't make a difference in pressure at my fixtures, but it most definitely does. Things like my kitchen sink and showers take a noticeable hit. I hope that clarifies things.

Even with the adjustment bolt screwed all the way down, a direct acting pressure reducing valve will cause considerable restriction.

 

[Rldev]

A PRV is required in my town as the pressure can exceed 90PSI at times. I can try a larger PRV, but ultimately it's looking like a pump is in my future.

 

[Reach4]

A bigger PRV, and a second stage PRV after the pressure dropping stuff, would be a lot better than a pump IMO.

 

[Valveman]

A PRV is required in my town as the pressure can exceed 90PSI at times. I can try a larger PRV, but ultimately it's looking like a pump is in my future.

If the city pressure varies that much they certainly need a Cycle Stop Valve. Lol! A pilot operated PRV will have almost no friction loss as compared to that direct acting one. Not going to find a pilot operated smaller than 2" and they are not cheap.