I'm sweating the sweating I did on my valve body

[PlumbNewb]

Hey folks. Awesome resource here. Been sucking up info as I remodel my bathroom, but apparently not quite enough info.

I plumbed our new tub last night. Moen valve with Pex to hot/cold and shower, and copper to spout. Got everything done and realized I hadn't sweated the copper for the spout. It was crazy late and I'm running on empty from living in this bathroom day and night, so I stupidly decided just work quickly to get the down pipe soldered on. The valve body got pretty hot, as did the crimp rings closest to the valve body, but I don't see any melting or deformation of the teflon tape nor the Pex. The hot/cold are holding pressure, but now I'm really worried about the long-term reliability of the system. I'm also not in love with my solder joint as it didn't seem like the solder was getting sucked up into the fitting.

Couple other details. The icing on this stress cake is that I still need to solder the elbow to the spout pipe. It's a 10" line. I was initially going to wrap everything with a wet towel, but am second guessing that. I'd also like to pressure test my copper, but doing so means soldering a cap on, taking it off, then soldering a threaded fitting on for the spout. I know that line isn't typically under pressure, but like I said, I'm not in love with the joint. I'd appreciate any advice or thoughts.

 

[hj]

1. A "real" plumber would have soldered the copper directly into the valve.
2. A "moderately capable" plumber would have soldered the tubing into the adapter BEFORE attaching it to the valve.
3. GIven that you are neither one, you should pressure test the connection, because the heat could have deformed the adapter or affected the threads.4
4. Your spout may be a "slip on" one that does not need a threaded adapter.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[PlumbNewb]

Thanks, hj! Yeah, I stared at that valve for a while wishing I would have done 2 on your list. It's definitely a threaded spout.

Do you think I can leave it as-is if the pressure tests pass? Any concerns with the heat from the elbow, or the heat from adding/removing the cap and adding the threaded fitting? Can I just do the threaded fitting and thread a cap on that to test? Does such a thing exist?

 

[Taylorjm]

Pshhhh. You did fine. The joint looks fine and like you said, it's not under pressure. Since you didn't use a sharkbite and actually have the ability to sweat fittings I'd put you higher on the list then what HJ said. As long as you point the flame away from the valve when your sweating you'll be fine. You can tell by the color of the copper you didn't overheat it to death so I'd be good with it.

 

[Plumber69]

As long as you removed the cartridge before soldering you should be fine

 

[PlumbNewb]

Thanks!

I did manage to remove the cartridge. I'm gonna use a sharkbite for the cap to limit solder time, and will be careful with the elbow.

 

[Jadnashua]

Take a mirror if you can't see the underside well, and see if there's solder all around. IF there is, put a cap on things then pressure test. It's probably okay.

 

[Plumber69]

Doesn't take more then a drop or 2 of solder to fill the gap

 

[Taylorjm]

Doesn't take more then a drop or 2 of solder to fill the gap

I really hate watching the home shows where they heat up a joint and barely touch the solder to it. I know your supposed to only use 1/2" of solder for 1/2" pipe, etc, but I'm from the days of using 50/50 and filling up that joint until it won't take any more, then letting a small piece of solder lay on the top of the joint and melt down. Then wipe it down with a thick glove and it looks all nice and pretty. I want to be able to see the solder. Not just hope it went all around inside.