Ikea vanity plumbing advice

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by ndjur, Feb 1, 2018.

  1. ndjur

    ndjur New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2014
    Hello all and sorry for yet another Ikea plumbing related question.
    In short - The combination is Godmorgon 4 drawer cabinet + non-Ikea vessel sink (no overflow WS H10-60C) and non-Ikea drain (Decor Star PU-001-TP 1-5/8). Of course, I read everything Internet has to offer when it comes to Ikea cabinet plumbing, and at the end came up with this setup as the most probable candidate so far:
    IkeaPlumbing.jpg

    ABS pipes are too wide and can't fit between two drawers - metal ones are just right.
    Of course - the super short tailpiece will change to a metal one and the wall tube will be shortened. From there another pipe will go straight down to 90 degree vertical elbow, connected straight to the cast iron sanitary tee in the wall (probably using a Fernco 2" - 1-1/2" donut). All these changes are waiting for the forum approval of this setup.

    My questions for the specialists are:
    a) This is a very long S trap, isn't it. Is it allowed as such?
    b) How to crate proper 1% wall tube slope. Brute force? Ignore?
    c) Is it better to go straight down vertically into 1/2 elbow connected to the sanitary tee , or to approach sanitary tee horizontally - vertical 1/4 turn + a few inches of straight horizontal pipe parallel to the wall + horizontal 1/4 turn into sanitary tee?

    Thanks a lot, and thank you very much for all your help over the years,
    Nick
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2018
  2. Michael Young

    Michael Young Active Member

    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2016
    Location:
    North Carolina
    We need pics. An S-trap is illegal. Getting slope on an S-trap isn't an issue. What you're describing is a little bit confusing. Brute force? Might be easier to use a hacksaw and just cut it to size. Send us some pics
     
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  4. ndjur

    ndjur New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2014
    Hello Michel,

    Thank you for even attempting to reply to my post. Of course it is very confusing without a single picture. I was sure I embedded the one I attached now and I could see it in my browser, but it turns out it didn't work.
    Thanks again.
     
  5. fullysprinklered

    fullysprinklered In the Trades

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    Occupation:
    self-employed plumber-electrician doing residentia
    Location:
    Georgia
    Since it's Ikea, the best solution would be to cram a Homer bucket under there and dump it out in the toilet once a day.
     
  6. ndjur

    ndjur New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2014
    Maybe my post title is slightly misleading. The fact the cabinet is made by Ikea is less relevant here. It's only a synonym for a confined space for drainage. No Ikea plumbing is used for the setup I hope to go ahead with.
     
  7. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    The trap arm needs to be vented before turning down after the trap.
    Maybe you could use something like this to jog the tailpiece down around that divider, and have the p-trap lower. [​IMG]
    You still have to have that vent before turning down, but with the p-trap as high as you showed it, there would not even be room for an AAV I think. If you could sacrifice part of that drawer, you might be able to use the vent that is in the wall behind the existing trap adapter. I am not a plumber.
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2018
  8. fullysprinklered

    fullysprinklered In the Trades

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    Occupation:
    self-employed plumber-electrician doing residentia
    Location:
    Georgia
    I stand corrected. Yeah, you need a pipe coming up into a tee to catch the drain. The pipe should continue up from there into a studer vent. A drain pours into a vertical vented pipe within a specified distance to prevent glugging. The Studer vent takes the place of a vertical pipe which would eventually go through the roof. This makes no sense to me either. I'll fix it tomorrow.
     
  9. plumber69

    plumber69 In the Trades

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    Location:
    Prince Rupert, British Columbia
    When I have to plumb ikea crap, I do what ever works. I don't care if it's code or not. In your case I'd probably run that chrome piece in a tee with an auto vent
     
  10. Michael Young

    Michael Young Active Member

    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2016
    Location:
    North Carolina
    Something like this. Just roll the J-bend to get it out of the way as much as possible. You can cut the horizontal pipe to length.

    upload_2018-2-1_21-37-42.png
     
  11. Highlander

    Highlander Member

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    Dec 21, 2016
    Location:
    Ontario
    Maybe you need something similar to this setup used to make open front vanities wheelchair accessible?[​IMG]
     
  12. MKS

    MKS Member

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    Apr 15, 2016
    Location:
    Illinois
  13. fullysprinklered

    fullysprinklered In the Trades

    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2014
    Occupation:
    self-employed plumber-electrician doing residentia
    Location:
    Georgia
    That might work. Haven't done one of those since the early nineties, but if you have room, it could be an option.
     
  14. ndjur

    ndjur New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2014
    Thank you all for finding time to reply to my post.
    I understand the need for the vent. I was just hoping the length of the horizontal section would be sufficient to negate the need for the AAV.
    I would just like to ask now whether this second solution would work.
    LongTailpiece.jpg
    The main component here would be a brass 90 degree elbow which also fits between the drawers. The only thing I'm unsure about is whether it is good enough for this application. It comes with a square washers on both sides which do hold tight, but not tight enough so the elbow can't be pulled and disconnected from the tailpiece if sufficient force is applied. Do any of you have experience with this fitting?
    [​IMG]
    One question that remains from my original post is how to create proper slope in the horizontal section? If everything is exactly 90 degrees, there is no slope towards the P-trap located (in this case) behind the cabinet drawers (similar to original Ikea plumbing).

    Also, thanks a lot got the suggestion involving the handicapped sink drainage, but this one wouldn't work with the drain body I want to use. Otherwise, it would be perfect solution for this. I may end up going with that setup, but I first want to check whether I can use the drain body I like.

    Again, thanks a lot for all the help and comments.
    Nick
     

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