Thomas K
Member
If I had to replace some or all of the stack, would proper pipe be Charlotte 4 in. x 10 ft. PVC Schedule 40 Foam-Core DWV Pipe?
I Need to Vent
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Jeff H Young
In the Trades
I use abs here and its all foam core. but with pvc someone else can tell you . I would expect foam core but await as well for other opinion
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Thomas K
Member
Okay, After considering options, it is time for me to eat a colossal bowl of crow in front of you guys. I will not be cutting into the 4" cast iron pipe. What I had envisioned would require a 2" drain pipe, and it will not fit in that area due to stud boring codes. I will have to go with the twin street sanitary tee design. I am pretty sure pipe wall is load-bearing, with double-stacked 2 x 4 top plates, and my biggest problem now is going to be how to fix the damaged studs from previous plumber and running 1 1/2" piping through studs not meant for it. I don't think trying to add in a partial 2 x 6" wall there will work.
(Shrugs.) Now I'm back to square one.
(Shrugs.) Now I'm back to square one.
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Thomas K
Member
See my post after yours, Jeff.
wwhitney
In the Trades
Care to tell us what data went into that determination? The fact of a double top plate has little determinative value.
Cheers, Wayne
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
if cieling joist break on the wall its bearing. if not how long are they spanning from end to end and whether another partition is carrying them is what I would go by.
Thomas K
Member
I suppose I should've explained myself. I'm not sure about the top plate, but I'm pretty sure that notching a 2 x 4" load bearing stud to fit a 1.5" pipe is not to code. I don't think drilling a hole through center of vertical 2 x 4" stud to accomodate 1.5" pipe is acceptable. I think the general rule is to drill no more than 1/4 of the thickness of load-bearing member. Granted, most of the vertical wall in my photo has two floor plates and side by side studs, and if the pipe had been run between them, notching both studs for clearance, I'm pretty sure the notches would be acceptable.
The problem is there on the end of the run, where only one floor plate with 2 x 4 studs exists beyond the smaller back to back bathroom wall.
I haven't looked at the wall lately, and can't remember if the ceiling joists break on the wall or not. The joists span main bathroom, 8' wide, and over smaller bathroom, 6' wide. Ceiling joists are 2 x 6". Roof supports do rest on small bathroom wall perpendicular to the wall with 1.5" pipe in it.
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Thomas K
Member
wwhitney
In the Trades
See https://up.codes/s/drilling-and-notching-of-studs
As to whether the walls are load bearing, if the joists are continuous across the top plate, and would be spanning 14' 4" if the wall was gone, then it depends on the details of spacing, species and grade (to determine their capacity) and of the attic access (to determine the demand). Best case is that for 16" o.c., grade #2 or better, uninhabitable attics without storage, live load is 10 psf, dead load is 5 psf, then any species can span 14' 4".
Cheers, Wayne
As to whether the walls are load bearing, if the joists are continuous across the top plate, and would be spanning 14' 4" if the wall was gone, then it depends on the details of spacing, species and grade (to determine their capacity) and of the attic access (to determine the demand). Best case is that for 16" o.c., grade #2 or better, uninhabitable attics without storage, live load is 10 psf, dead load is 5 psf, then any species can span 14' 4".
Cheers, Wayne
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
Throw, flat stud firring onthe otherside of wall and give up an 1 1/2 of room to make it good
Thomas K
Member
Do you mean installing a 2 x 4" in a T pattern on the single 2 x 4s in the photo? I actually extended the framing of the pocket door kit I installed because a 28" door wouldn't quite fit. So there is 4-5" of stud framing extending into the closet area behind pocket door.
Would it be better to double up the studs where they are and drill through both? Looks like 2 x 4 firring would have to support top plate to strengthen it.
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Thomas K
Member
I went to house today and removed the old drain pipe and a lot of the studs that were notched too much. I have a lot of new 2 x 4s and am planning to add a floor and top plate in area of photo, to match where I bumped framing into closet to accomodate pocket door. I removed the studs with an X on them, and arrow points to area where I will install new studs perpendicular to match studs in pipe wall. I hope this arrangement is okay.
This will make the wet wall 2 side by side floor and top plates, and side by side studs the entire run. I was planning to run pipe through center of where 2 x 4"s meet, making a 1" notch in each, when I realized something that stopped me cold.
Using the twin street sanitary tee setup, does maximum length of drain pipe run have to be 6', or can it be 8'? I measured from exactly where pvc drain pipe enters cast iron sanitary tee in included photo to center of outermost pipe, and distance is 61 1/4"
Almost forgot. Ceiling joists do not break on pipe wall. They do break on wall between smaller bathroom and bedroom. 14' span.
This will make the wet wall 2 side by side floor and top plates, and side by side studs the entire run. I was planning to run pipe through center of where 2 x 4"s meet, making a 1" notch in each, when I realized something that stopped me cold.
Using the twin street sanitary tee setup, does maximum length of drain pipe run have to be 6', or can it be 8'? I measured from exactly where pvc drain pipe enters cast iron sanitary tee in included photo to center of outermost pipe, and distance is 61 1/4"
Almost forgot. Ceiling joists do not break on pipe wall. They do break on wall between smaller bathroom and bedroom. 14' span.
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wwhitney
In the Trades
The only length/fall limitation is on the trap arm, which is between the trap and the sanitary tee. No limitations downstream of the sanitary tee.
Not really following all the framing discussion.
Cheers, Wayne
Thomas K
Member
Thanks, Wayne!
That really made my day! All I am mostly doing is replacing all of those studs that were drilled excessively. And use 1.5" drain pipe like you said.
wwhitney
In the Trades
Great. I should clarify my last post by substituting "first sanitary tee" for "sanitary tee". Because obviously you are tying into a sanitary tee at the cast iron drain stack, but I wasn't referring to that sanitary tee.
Cheers, Wayne
Cheers, Wayne
Thomas K
Member
Will post more photos as work progresses. I don't think a 1" notch in each side by side 2 x 4" will damage them, but anyone reading this can correct me if I'm wrong. I don't really think it is a load-bearing wall, but could be wrong.
I am making sure pipe slopes 1/4" per foot toward drain. I plan on drilling one hole per vent pipe through top plate, and vent for downstairs will come off of wye attached to vent pipe for outermost street sanitary tee. Vent pipes will join in attic, which is uninhabitable (no living space there, no plywood on top of ceiling joists, no storage.)
Thomas K
Member
Given that this was post #117 on the thread, you might have wanted to point back to #60 where you posted this photo: https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?attachments/img_1776-jpg.66981/
It would seem that you are implying that there is a threaded side port that would accept that proposed adapter.
wwhitney
In the Trades
I'm sorry, I've lost the train of discussion about the wall, are you talking about having 7" depth of wall framing? (2) 2x4s next to each other, 3-1/2" + 3-1/2"? Why would you do that?
Cheers, Wayne
Thomas K
Member
No, Reach 4. I posted this photo on another posting here under home renovations forum, asking about framing advice. Some one answered and said I needed to "Rip it all out call a Licensed plumber to reinstall all the piping properly including the connection to the cast iron."
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