I Need to Vent

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Thomas K

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Cutting it on the vertical section would certainly make it easier to solder a cap on. I wish I could just cut the main 3/4" line about 2" above the shutoff valve and replace everything from there up with Pex, but the cold water pipe to kitchen is right above shutoff valve and it wouldn't really help. I plan to solder a pex barb onto cold water pipe farther up on wall, and cut out all of those old pipes that don't connect to anything anymore, and run new Pex through the joists and floorplate up to the bathrooms, hot and cold. Only problem with running through joists is cutting holes through those tight areas where a regular drill won't fit. I might be better off to just install the pipes slightly below the joists. I'm just trying to get the ceiling as high as I can. I don't think it was even at mobile home height of 7' 5" when we purchased house.

I plan on replacing piping to water heater, as well, since it's full of Sharkbites. I'll just make sure to connect 18" stainless steel lines to short pipes on water heater (code) before adding Pex. I'll try to get some work done starting with this upcoming Thursday after 1/2 day at work.

And just so I am drilling holes correctly in joists, I'm thinking I can drill supply pipe and drain holes along the joist as long as they're at least 2" from each other and at least 2" from the top or bottom. I just hope that the new 3/4" and 1/2" lines don't reduce flow by a large margin. I'm thinking they will not.
 
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Thomas K

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Just to be curious, will it help shower flow to have 3/4" PEX instead of 1/2" almost up to shower valve, or does it matter? I've been busy installing Pex through the second floor joists lately. Shouldn't I also wrap the Pex with foam tube insulation to avoid damage from UV radiation coming in first floor window since there's no first floor ceiling yet?
 
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