I need to replace the flush valve on our TOTO CST416M Aquia II Toilet. The supply line is not acces

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JOSIE P

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I need to replace the flush valve on our TOTO CST416M Aquia II Toilet. The supply line is not accessible because the Toto Aquia skirt wraps around and hides the connections under the tank. Must I remove the tank from the base and how do I disconnect the supply line where it meets the tank?

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Jeff H Young

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pull toilet and re -locate angle stop thats a horrible place to have it . your really asking for trouble having a hidden supply connection!
 

Reach4

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pull toilet and re -locate angle stop thats a horrible place to have it . your really asking for trouble having a hidden supply connection!
At first I thought it was the stop valve hidden. But checking further, the problem is that the top end of the supply line goes deep up into the porcelain. I don't know if a crows foot or other special wrench would help reach and turn.

On https://terrylove.com/forums/index....shlet-on-existing-toto-aquia-ii-toilet.46203/ #2, Terry shows how an adapter can bring down the the connection to let a Washlet tee fit. If you look at the length of the adapter, you can see how deep that 7/8 nut must be.
 

Jeff H Young

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oh arent those Japanese crafty? I thought he had had a differant situation , Maybe COW BELLS will work those deep metal sockets for working on tub and shower valves. I think there is agood chance of those working I gotta say Toto makes some good product but what a stupid idea here
 

Jadnashua

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It looks like the flush valve comes out from the top...see the owner's manual linked above.
 

Jeff H Young

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it says pull tank but id give my idea since i have the the sockets. if your removing the tank concider changing tank to bowl seal and other parts
 

Jadnashua

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The bottom of page 5 says you only need to remove the lid...I don't have one, so can't tell you for sure.
 

Reach4

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You might try to show a photo of what it looks like looking up along the supply line toward the fill valve.

EDIT: I was thinking that removing the supply line was the objective to change the fill valve, but now I think that pulling the tank was a higher objective toward changing the flush valve. If you still want to pull the tank, it seems to me that you could disconnect the supply line nut at the stop valve, then you could lift the tank, with the supply line danging, nut and all, right? It looks like this is a solid supply line, but that seems like it would.
 
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Jeff H Young

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it reads .. " reverse the tank installation instructions and remove it" i think they are talking about removing tank. Thanks for putting instructions on here Jadnashua! you and reach4 are really good at including all that stuff in your posts, wayne too but not in this case. Im still thinking that socket might do the trick. but the instructions say remove tank( I admit they arent that clear) Foreign instructions are often bad
 

Terry

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aquia_inside_tank.jpg


Those brass fittings hold the tank on.

aquia-install-05.jpg


The supply line fits through the large hole on the left.

aquia-install-06.jpg


I like to rotate out the flush valve to get better access to the attachments.

aquia_install_fig_7.jpg


The supply line threads to the fill valve, and the is fished through the hole on the left.

cst416-green-1.jpg
 

Jeff H Young

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rotate flush valve? or fill valve? Some times I call them wrong and listen wrong . OP wants to change flush valve so of cource the tank gets pulled. and rotating the fill valve gives access to bolts on tank. my idea may or maynot have been a shortcut to changing a fill valve but was intended for fill valve
 

Reach4

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page 5 bottom seems to say it it is done from the top, and the photos Terry posted in #10 shows what looks like a bayonet mount, for the flush valve, at the inside bottom of the tank.

Replacing the bayonet mount would need pulling the tank.
 

Jeff H Young

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unless op says otherwise Flush valve requires changing didn't say bayonet instructions say its from the top no need to pull tank. I think this is right?
 
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Jadnashua

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Flush valve = the center assembly with the two buttons on top...seems to come out from the top.

Fill valve = the one that turns the water on/off...you need to remove the tank to get to the whole thing.

So, depends on what really needs to be replaced.

Regarding the fill valve...unless it is cracked or something, the only wear part can be replaced easily without tools from the top - restoring it to like new condition. The seal assembly takes all of maybe 3-minutes...maybe 10 the first time you do it since you have to read the instructions a few times. IOW, it would be rare that you actually have to replace the whole thing.
 
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