I need a jet pump to run continuously

[Frank1027]

I know this is backwards from what most people probably ask, but I have a new Gould’s J5SH shallow well jet pump that I want to run continuously (tying to control ground water level) I have the pump piped into a 20’ well in my basement with a new foot valve, the outlet side of the pump is piped directly outside to a nearby storm drain. It has 0psi on the outlet side and cuts on and off. Runs for around 1 1/2 minutes, off 2 1/2 minutes. How can I make it run continuously when I have it plugged in? Do I need to add a pressure tank or cycle stop switch maybe?

Ps- this pump is replacing an old Gould’s J5sh from 1998 that kept loosing its prime. The old one ran continuously but new one won’t. I even tried swapping the pressure valve but still cuts in and out.
Thanks in advance for any help

 

[Reach4]

I presume that you have a float valve that you did not mention, and the water level goes up and down. How about lowering the float?


You may need to control the flow to limit the gpm pumped out to the amount of gpm in.

This is not the job for a pressure tank or cycle stop valve.

You might be able to do that with a partially-closed valve alone. Maybe you could have a partially closed valve (set to keep enough flow for cooling) in parallel with a float valve.

I am not a pro, and have no experience with jet pumps.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Frank1027]

I don’t have a float valve on it. I just manually plugged the pump in when I want it to run and unplug it after a few hours. I don’t have any valves on it either, I could try installing one to see if it changes anything with it half opened. I’m just confused as to why the old one ran continuously but the new one won’t since it’s the same brand/model number just newer lol

 

[LLigetfa]

My guess is that the motor is going into thermal overload. Is it wired for 120 or 240?
If the well can accommodate a submersible, that would be the better option. Subs use less electricity to move the same amount of water, never lose prime, and they are water cooled.

 

[Frank1027]

It’s wired for 240. I have a submersible sump pump hooked up in the well near the top (just below grade) but the problem is our water table gets so high it’s currently going off ever 30-45 seconds and is only going to get worse as the snow melts and we have spring showers. Is there a submersible type I can use for continuous use instead of the jet pump?

 

[Midriller]

I would double check your wiring on the pump, for sticking governor, the motor is turning the correct direction. It sounds like thermal overload to me as well. I'm trying to figure out why changing a pump out would solve a losing prime issue. Is this a stab well, or in a de-watering pit.

 

[LLigetfa]

Is the motor internally strapped for 240V?

A submersible can have the min and max levels adjusted so it draws down further and so runs longer.

 

[Frank1027]

Midriller-in all honesty I think my loss of prime was a bad foot valve I found After I had already ordered the new J5sh but since I have it I wanted to swap pumps anyway (worried how much longer a 20yr old pump is going to last anyway)
As far as I can tell everything looks wired correctly to me. I pulled the cover back off and when your looking at the back of the pump the motor is turning clockwise. It’s in a de-watering pit basically.
It’s a pit around 2’ wide and 20’ deep. From what I’m told it supplied water to my house before city water was available here, house was built in 1942, and aside from a couple other homes in the neighborhood I’ve never seen another like it.
LLigetfa-it is strapped for 230 and thank you for the info on the submersible pump, I may have to consider that route if I can’t get the jet to work, it’s driving me nuts

(Hopefully the photos I attached show up)

 

[Midriller]

Have you checked voltage/amp draw? Is the switch opening/closing when it cycles. or is the switch staying closed?

 

[Frank1027]

I just ran down stairs and watched the switch again. It doesn’t look like the switch is moving so you guys must be right that it’s a thermal issue. I don’t have an amp probe, I’ll try to borrow one from someone at work tomorrow. I’m starting to wonder if I just got a bad pump, I swapped the electrical cord over from the old one which worked fine (also swapped over the pressure switch from the old one like I said earlier), anything’s possible though I suppose

 

[LLigetfa]

The centrifugal start/run switch might be sticking in start mode. If you cycle the motor, can you hear the switch click? In case you don't know where it is, it is the gizmo with the springs on the end of the shaft in your pic.

 

[Valveman]

The J5SH is designed to build a lot of pressure. A J5S would have been better. The J5SH wants to work against 50, 60, 70 PSI. Running it wide open it will produce over 12 GPM, and probably trip the overload. I would use a ball valve on the discharge and throttle to 10 GPM or so, and see if it won't stay running.