I know that there is a difference in pump wiring. I'm at my wits end. need water.

[Randy Sellers]

My question is last Christmas during Cyber Monday. My wife bought a well pump it was around 169.00 brand new. It is a 2 horsepower. Ironically I think that jinxed me LOL. Because now my well pump had went out.
I am pulling the motor today I've been having problems with this well since Thanksgiving.
I've literally changed everything well related.
It is all completely brand new including the the well that has went bad. My question is wiring on the new well appears to be extremely small gauged I would guess 14 gauge the ground is even smaller .
And is pre-wired with approximately 30 ft of wiring that is factory installed. Considering I have 10/2 ga.now. I would love to return this pump however for only costing 160 + dollars because of cyber monday normally $500 pump. And I got it after Christmas I just never bothered with the hassles of returns. I would love to think I can hook it up .

 

[Valveman]

Not really telling us anything? What kind of problems have you been having? Why do you think you well pump is bad? What kind of pump is the
"2 Horspower"?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Randy Sellers]

Not really telling us anything? What kind of problems have you been having? Why do you think you well pump is bad? What kind of pump is the
"2 Horspower"?

Thank you for your response apologize for my vagueness. It would take me a month to explain everything. However I will try to do it in a few minutes. My previous well went out. Locked up and smell burnt. I purchased a 2 horsepower Schrader. Put new pipe in it is a black PVC 1 inch. I used the existing wire because it was in good shape. My last one I had installed three check valves 1 twenty-five from the well. And then each 100 feet after that. This time I did not install check valves primarily due to the thread on this site all the difference in opinions. My brass check valve I had install 25 feet off had a hole blown night through it. Back to my new well. I was getting air constantly with no relief violent bursts. So the one check valve I did install just underneath my sanitary cap. Had a crack in it. So I removed it and now the only check self with the exception of the one factory installed on the well pump. Is at my tank. Just before going in to it. That fix the problem for about one day I lost all pressure. Wasn't getting any water into my tank long story short it was waterlogged with a very slow leak. If I emptied the holding tank. And put the proper pressure in which was 38 lb two# before cut off. I had the best water pressure I ever had until the next day. I went from a 20 gallon pressure tank to a 60 something gallon tank.. I even built a lean-to to the back of my house and I moved my hot water heater and holding tank and all plumbing and filters out of the small dam at time soaking wet spider infested crawl space as I am a large man . With the proper amount of Grease you could get me into it, LOL. Well once I did all that. happy as I could be new well new Plumbing new holding tank and even new filters with a settlement filter. Even the wiring was new. I turned breaker on the pressure got up to about 10 lb. And then tripped the breaker. Water didn't even make it to my filters I checked the voltage at the breaker at my pressure switch and going down to the pump it was what it supposed to been 110 on each leg with a total of 220. had to be my wiring possibly pressure switch I replaced pressure switch with another 40 60 and went bigger wiring from the breaker to my pressure switch and I might add I went from a 20 amp to a 30 amp breaker when I changed wiring I turned it on and it got enough water to point out my few leaks. so now I've got all that repaired. 2:30 this morning dirty and tired wet and cold yes, yet proud enough I finished. So my family could take a long-awaited showers when they woke up, but that wasn't going to happen! unless they went to a hotel again. because when I turn the breaker on nothing happened. there is power where it needs to be 110 on each leg. L1 and L2 120 each same as the motor. walking to my well and checking at the well 220 down the hole. great day I get to work on the well again. I would love to know how to check and what to check for is far is I would love to know how to check and what to check for is far is my I would love to know how to check and what to check for is far is my electrical. To see if it is a wire or the motor. ironically 15 ft from my well, runs the city water. $3,000 they would put me a a connection I thought to myself I am not paying that much. What an idiot. I'm sure I left something out

 

[Valveman]

Yeah still don't know what kind of pump you have? "Smelled something burning" was probably not the pump. Do you have a control box for the pump or do the wires go from the pressure switch straight down the well? "Check valves splitting", are they plastic check valves? And you don't want a check valve at the tank either. Do you have a clip around amp meter?

 

[Randy Sellers]

Thank you for your response apologize for my vagueness. It would take me a month to explain everything. However I will try to do it in a few minutes. My previous well went out. Locked up and smell burnt. I purchased a 2 horsepower Schrader. Put new pipe in it is a black PVC 1 inch. I used the existing wire because it was in good shape. My last one I had installed three check valves 1 twenty-five from the well. And then each 100 feet after that. This time I did not install check valves primarily due to the thread on this site all the difference in opinions. My brass check valve I had install 25 feet off had a hole blown night through it. Back to my new well. I was getting air constantly with no relief violent bursts. So the one check valve I did install just underneath my sanitary cap. Had a crack in it. So I removed it and now the only check self with the exception of the one factory installed on the well pump. Is at my tank. Just before going in to it. That fix the problem for about one day I lost all pressure. Wasn't getting any water into my tank long story short it was waterlogged with a very slow leak. If I emptied the holding tank. And put the proper pressure in which was 38 lb two# before cut off. I had the best water pressure I ever had until the next day. I went from a 20 gallon pressure tank to a 60 something gallon tank.. I even built a lean-to to the back of my house and I moved my hot water heater and holding tank and all plumbing and filters out of the small dam at time soaking wet spider infested crawl space as I am a large man . With the proper amount of Grease you could get me into it, LOL. Well once I did all that. happy as I could be new well new Plumbing new holding tank and even new filters with a settlement filter. Even the wiring was new. I turned breaker on the pressure got up to about 10 lb. And then tripped the breaker. Water didn't even make it to my filters I checked the voltage at the breaker at my pressure switch and going down to the pump it was what it supposed to been 110 on each leg with a total of 220. had to be my wiring possibly pressure switch I replaced pressure switch with another 40 60 and went bigger wiring from the breaker to my pressure switch and I might add I went from a 20 amp to a 30 amp breaker when I changed wiring I turned it on and it got enough water to point out my few leaks. so now I've got all that repaired. 2:30 this morning dirty and tired wet and cold yes, yet proud enough I finished. So my family could take a long-awaited showers when they woke up, but that wasn't going to happen! unless they went to a hotel again. because when I turn the breaker on nothing happened. there is power where it needs to be 110 on each leg. L1 and L2 120 each same as the motor. walking to my well and checking at the well 220 down the hole. great day I get to work on the well again. I would love to know how to check and what to check for is far is I would love to know how to check and what to check for is far is my I would love to know how to check and what to check for is far is my electrical. To see if it is a wire or the motor. ironically 15 ft from my well, runs the city water. $3,000 they would put me a a connection I thought to myself I am not paying that much. What an idiot. I'm sure I left something out

 

[Reach4]

Thank you for your response apologize for my vagueness. It would take me a month to explain everything. However I will try to do it in a few minutes.

One or two pictures are a lot better than a month of explaining

Put new pipe in it is a black PVC 1 inch.

I have never seen that. Polythene pipe is often black.

I purchased a 2 horsepower Schrader

Schaefer maybe? What model?

How far down is your water. A 2 HP pump for a house would imply the water is a long way down. How far down is the pump?



.

 

[Randy Sellers]

One or two pictures are a lot better than a month of explaining

I have never seen that. Polythene pipe is often black.


Schaefer maybe? What model?

How far down is your water. A 2 HP pump for a house would imply the water is a long way down. How far down is the pump?



.[/QUOTE

One or two pictures are a lot better than a month of explaining

I have never seen that. Polythene pipe is often black.


Schaefer maybe? What model?

How far down is your water. A 2 HP pump for a house would imply the water is a long way down. How far down is the pump?



.

 

[Randy Sellers]

It is black pipe. I'm calling it wrong.
Only because the guy at Lowe's called it PEC and have me use the clamps with the pliers which I changed back to hose clamps. Hopefully the pictures posted that explains my depth.
And I realized my mistake by getting a two hp motor. Usually bigger is better.
I did get a bigger holding tank so pump will run longer.

 

[Randy Sellers]

Yeah still don't know what kind of pump you have? "Smelled something burning" was probably not the pump. Do you have a control box for the pump or do the wires go from the pressure switch straight down the well? "Check valves splitting", are they plastic check valves? And you don't want a check valve at the tank either. Do you have a clip around amp meter?

Didn't smell anything burning.
Motor however when pulled smelled like it has been on fire.
No plastic check valves.
They were brass spring loaded .
I do have a meter it does not have a clip around it. I can check amperage . iIt's actually a ideal it's for dummies
no settings
donot have a control box does have a pressure switch. and let me clarify the check valves if I can bottom check valve that was approximately 25 ft off the pump had a hole blown and it as if it was shot with a 22. It was brass I used the galvanized threaded coupler connectors with the other end for my black pipe with clamps .
Which had split approximately 1 inch it's possible I I reused just the two couplers but not the check valves.
I got all my information and used it from this forum eventhough there were many different opinions especially on check valves . I went with the opinions of the older plumbers. I did not install check valves until I got to the top .
Approximately 1 foot below my one foot below my cap .why I'm not sure. I did put a check valve which most everybody's opinion at just before going into the pressure tank.

 

[Valveman]

Those extra check valves and the one 25' above the pump cause water hammer, which may have been what popped the holes and split the pipe.

 

[Reach4]

It is black pipe. I'm calling it wrong.
Only because the guy at Lowe's called it PEC and have me use the clamps with the pliers which I changed back to hose clamps.

He called it PEX, and he was wrong. What you have would be SIDR (standard inside diameter ratio) poly (polyethylene). Its inside dimension stays the same as you use thicker or thinner pipe. That way it fits on the same barb. It is usual to use two of those worm-gear clamps on each barb, with the worms on opposite sides.

 

[Randy Sellers]

Where would you or anyone else's opinion which I do value. Place a check valve. I am having problems uploading pictures. When I try it says unable to process previous request due to memory. So I won't try to explain this. And I know that I went to large with my pump. This is probably one of the rare moments when bigger is not better I ain't no way shape or form have the expertise of you gentlemen actually don't want to either, LOL. But in the realm of trying to save money. And it started out rough as well for starters the Rope that was tied to the bottom on my pump with the help of some dear friends they managed to cut it. I called a service home advisors and they set me up with a plumber I explained my situation he told me he could pull my well for 300 dollars I knew that was too high so I told him I would just speak with him the next day I had hoped to have my well out already. I did not I had to work. I forgot all about the pump man he said he was going to come out and look at it I told him do nothing without talking to me first never thought anymore about until approximately 2 p.m. my wife frantically called me told me that there was a man in the yard and he was installing a new pump half horsepower. My wife immediately called me I told her to stop him. Let me talk to him. He got rude obnoxious with my wife she frantically said he was cutting well off. And starting to shove things things back down the hole. I've gotten him on the phone explain to him that I am not a crook I was not trying to get something for nothing he was not even supposed to pull the pump so he done said he would charge me 1400 dollars that included installing a new pump I didn't think that was bad but the wires were worn and bare the pipe was it very bad condition. he wasn't going to leave the property and he stood as to intimidate to my wife

He called it PEX, and he was wrong. What you have would be SIDR (standard inside diameter ratio) poly (polyethylene). Its inside dimension stays the same as you use thicker or thinner pipe. That way it fits on the same barb. It is usual to use two of those worm-gear clamps on each barb, with the worms on opposite sides.

That sir is how I have it. Just one minor problem...
No water going thru it.lol.

 

[Randy Sellers]

One or two pictures are a lot better than a month of explaining

I have never seen that. Polythene pipe is often black.


Schaefer maybe? What model?

How far down is your water. A 2 HP pump for a house would imply the water is a long way down. How far down is the pump?



.

My well is 248 ft to the bottom my well pump is approximately 227 ft

One or two pictures are a lot better than a month of explaining

I have never seen that. Polythene pipe is often black.


Schaefer maybe? What model?

How far down is your water. A 2 HP pump for a house would imply the water is a long way down. How far down is the pump?



.

My well is 248 ft to the bottom my well pump is 20 ft above that approximately 227 ft. Approximately 177 feet of water on top with the water line approximately 57 feet down. I used your favorite method of finding this out. weight and cotton rope. With no check valves from the pump to the pressure tank with the exception the factory installed one in the in the pump. I do have one at the pressure tank. But it's my understanding I should remove that. Is that correct? I realized I only needed one horsepower but I've got Cyber Monday deal lowest cost for a 2 horsepower that's what I went with and I should not have but what's done is done sir. I did go from a 20 gallon pressure tank to a 44 gallon I do know that I need to let the pump run for at least 2 minutes cool down a little bit. I want to purchase that valve can't recall the exact name but it's to keep the pump from constantly starting up

 

[Randy Sellers]

Concerning my pump it is a
schraiber pump
4 inch deep well
model number 4C2132w single phase
2 horsepower 426 ft
22 gallons per minute. 230-volt
2wire system
11.8 amps 13 stages

 

[Reach4]

Where would you or anyone else's opinion which I do value. Place a check valve. I am having problems uploading pictures. When I try it says unable to process previous request due to memory. So I won't try to explain this. And I know that I went to large with my pump. This is probably one of the rare moments when bigger is not better I ain't no way shape or form have the expertise of you gentlemen actually don't want to either, LOL. But in the realm of trying to save money.

Yep. Bigger is not necessarily better in the well pump world. You can put a check valve right above the pump (using a brass or stainless steel nipple) as a backup to the one in the pump. Having one above water is not usually a good idea when you are using a pressure tank with air precharge.

To upload pictures, they must be under 200 kbytes and may be a as large as 800x800. You can use Windows Paint to crop or shrink the pictures, as you can with other picture software. For a photo, usually saving it as a JPG/JPEG file will make it use fewer kbytes. If that does not work for you, there is other software that can control the amount of compression on a JPEG.

An alternative to uploading, you can put the picture on a different site, and post a link.

 

[Valveman]

OK I found that model number. It is a 2 wire 2HP, which is strange. But put 240 volts to the two hot wires and see if it is drawing 11.8 amps. No amps means the pump is not getting power. High amps means the pump is locked up or not running. Above 6-7 amps means the pump is running and the flow is plugged off somewhere. Less than 6-7 amps means it is not getting any water or the screen is clogged up.

 

[Randy Sellers]

I done the drawing myself so it's not the best no. What I'm fixing to do now is pull my pump because I have the power I am supposed to110 on each leg 240 total coming off my breaker box and coming off the pressure switch and at top of pump going down . To the well fixing to call the Well Company see about Mike warranty the next few words are probably the most important ones I'm going to need to know what not to tell them. To prevent me from voiding the warranty seems like there's a way I should be able to test my wiring

 

[Reach4]

I would not move it just for that if there is no bang symptom. But if you later pulled the pump, I would move it.

You would expect about 163 psi where the hole blew if the flow had been blocked.

If selecting a pump for a home with your well, without much irrigation, I would think a 7 gpm 3/4 HP or 10 gpm 1 HP would be about right. The pump you selected is not way out of wack however. The piping should have been able to survive the pressure I think.

 

[Randy Sellers]

OK I found that model number. It is a 2 wire 2HP, which is strange. But put 240 volts to the two hot wires and see if it is drawing 11.8 amps. No amps means the pump is not getting power. High amps means the pump is locked up or not running. Above 6-7 amps means the pump is running and the flow is plugged off somewhere. Less than 6-7 amps means it is not getting any water or the screen is clogged up.

this is the meter I have

Which one of these tests number one or two do I need to do

 

[Randy Sellers]

I would not move it just for that if there is no bang symptom. But if you later pulled the pump, I would move it.

You would expect about 163 psi where the hole blew if the flow had been blocked.

If selecting a pump for a home with your well, without much irrigation, I would think a 7 gpm 3/4 HP or 10 gpm 1 HP would be about right.

Agreed.