Hydrotech 4000,What should I replace here

[Pghsebring]

Here is the setup at a house I own. I'm not 100% sure of the names of the different parts.

The indexing valve was leaking. No problem, I got the same k-rain 4000 with a 3 zone cam in it.

Ironically the problem I'm having is when I went to install that schedule 80 PVC into the indexing valve inlet I cut the new piece to the old one's length figuring that was the right dimension. I screwed it into the ABV, I held my PVC to ABS connection (lol) for 30 seconds. I came back a minute later and the connection had separated 3/16" so I figured it would fail so I turned the water on and sure enough, a minute later it separated the connection. (Its really hard to find sch 80 1 1/4" nipples locally btw.)

I would like to replumb this mess so it is less likely to fail. Starting back at the inline valve (the green one), what fittings would you use to replumb this, through the ABV, to the indexing valve? Imagine your control valve and your indexing valve are already in place, so I need a realistic plan that is actually feasible to do. It's all 1-1/4." And while I have it apart, should I just replace the inline valve or the ABV? I don't know how old this stuff is. The only thing that was leaking was the indexing valve. I thought this would be a quick replacement, this is the first glue joint I've had fail in my life. (And now I realize the "don't glue ABS to PVC" is nonsense, every irrigation system in America does it, but you gotta use purple/clear, not blue.)

 

[WorthFlorida]

Indexing valves is a PITA. I had a five zone one and I finally replaced it after about 15 years with four valves and a new controller.

There is ABS to PVC cement. It really looks OK and you'll need only to try to redo the connection. Everyone seems to be made of ABS (FIMCO)and KRain). At one time they had green ones with were I think PVC, not ASB and I cannot find them anymore. To change everything is doable but to get it all to align to the three pipes could be a bear. I would just redo the small pipe connection with the transition cement after cleaning the old cement out as much as possible. After glueing put a clamp or strap around it to hold pressure and let it setup for an hour or two. What might have happen is the two parts might be trying to pull away from each other. The pipe may not be aligned just right and pulling itself apart.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-16-oz-Green-Transition-ABS-to-PVC-Cement-30925/100200776

 

[Sponsor]

 

[WorthFlorida]

Seems like they are not made anymore but PVC cement was always used.

 

[Pghsebring]

Indexing valves is a PITA. I had a five zone one and I finally replaced it after about 15 years with four valves and a new controller.

There is ABS to PVC cement. It really looks OK and you'll need only to try to redo the connection. Everyone seems to be made of ABS (FIMCO)and KRain). At one time they had green ones with were I think PVC, not ASB and I cannot find them anymore. To change everything is doable but to get it all to align to the three pipes could be a bear. I would just redo the small pipe connection with the transition cement after cleaning the old cement out as much as possible. After glueing put a clamp or strap around it to hold pressure and let it setup for an hour or two. What might have happen is the two parts might be trying to pull away from each other. The pipe may not be aligned just right and pulling itself apart.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-16-oz-Green-Transition-ABS-to-PVC-Cement-30925/100200776

That ABS to PVC cement says its not for pressurized connections which is why I didn't try to use it. I'll probably strap it like you said after I glue it and let it sit for a good long time. I just wanted to make sure I shouldn't change some other stuff out preventively while I have it apart.

 

[WorthFlorida]

I couldn't not find any specification on what cement to use on K-Rain but FIMCO did have a statement. I always used clear PVC so I was surprised you had a problem. I did find on Oatey that not to use PVC primer on ABS. Oatey statement about not to be used on pressurized connections really means not for continuous pressure such as for inside home connection. Drain pipes do not work under pressure.

Most types of PVC cement will work fine though we recommend standard clear PVC cement. We recommend against using the fast-setting blue cement as it’s extremely aggressive and can damage the valve housing.