Humming Noise, can it be something other than high pressure?

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William Weis

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The pipe humming noise started about 2 months ago. I have a private well with a submersible pump. The pressure switch range is 40-60psi. I noticed the switch actually stops at 62. Then the pressure drops and stabilizes at 60. The humming noise starts at high pressure and continues even when the switch shuts off.

The pump does not always triggers the noise. It usually happens in the morning at the first pump and the noise can last more than 1 minute. The following occurrences have shorten period, lasting a few seconds.

Is the water pressure the only one to blame? I adjusted the switch range to 37 - 57 but it did not help. Can the pump itself contribute to the triggering? Is it a symptom the pump is reaching its EOL? The pump is 12 years old.

What can I do to stop the noise? Thanks!
 

Reach4

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The pipe humming noise started about 2 months ago. I have a private well with a submersible pump. The pressure switch range is 40-60psi. I noticed the switch actually stops at 62. Then the pressure drops and stabilizes at 60.
That is normal. I think it the diaphragm relaxing. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....lbs-of-pressure-at-cut-off.67940/#post-504741 has a graph of data I did on my system.
The humming noise starts at high pressure and continues even when the switch shuts off.
Is that noise only while using some water?
Does the noise ever start when the pump has not run for a while?
Is the water pressure the only one to blame? I adjusted the switch range to 37 - 57 but it did not help. Can the pump itself contribute to the triggering? Is it a symptom the pump is reaching its EOL? The pump is 12 years old.
I cannot think of anything that could be caused by the pump once it has shut off. I have something preventing the vibration now.

Some noise can be a resonating pipe. I have a pipe that can resonate when the fridge runs.
 

Bannerman

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Can you post a video showing your well system components where the hum is heard? If the hum is apparent for only a few seconds, you may need to produce multiple short videos which clearly include the sound, and also show where you detect the sound source is.
 

William Weis

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Every time the noise starts after the pump raises the pressure. It can happen when no water is running (that's what I observed) The humming is so loud that the entire house can feel it, but it is the loudest in one of the bathrooms one level above the pressure switch and tank. The noise is not as obvious in the control room. Should I pay more attention to the bathroom?
@Reach4 what is the thing you used to prevent vibration?
 

Reach4

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I used a piece of foam rubber between the copper pipe and a nearby joist. The space was open above the basement, so easy to locate.

Yours is pretty strange IMO. Mine was not a humming, but some a lower frequency -- maybe 5 to 10 Hz (cycles per second).

For troubleshooting yours, maybe close some valves. Toilet fill valves. That is my top choice. Supply to the water heater is easy.
 

Bannerman

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Suggest shutting off power to the pump and open the faucet within the bathroom where the sound is heard loudest to determine if it is also present while pressure is being reduced. Allow the faucet to remain open after there is no further flow, and if there is a faucet near the pressure tank, open it also until all water is drained from the plumbing piping. No need to drain the water heater.

Assuming your system is equipped with a captive air pressure tank, while the tank contains no water, check the air pressure within the air chamber of the pressure tank. If you have returned the pressure switch setting to 40/60, then the air pre-charge pressure within the tank should be calibrated to 38 psi or 2 psi lower than the pressure switch cutin pressure. If the pressure is too high, bleed-iff some air. If too low, add air with a tire pressure pump or air compressor. If the pressure is very low or if you need to add air to push water out from the tank, or if the tank will not hold air, the diaphragm within the tank is likely damaged and the tank will probably need to be replaced.

Assuming the pressure tank air precharge is capable of being adjusted to the correct pressure, close the lower valve and reactivate the pump. The open bathroom faucet will permit air to escape from the plumbing while it is refilling with water, so once water flow from the faucet is constant, the faucet can then be closed to determine if there has been any change to the noise situation.
 

WorthFlorida

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As Reach suggest, shut off valves. First start with the toilets. High pressure might be forcing the fill valve to seep. Old ball cock valves always made a vibration noise, especially as they aged. The diaphragm in the valves get stiff. You can at the toilets, manual push down on the float to allow the water to flow but do it with a lite touch to get the valve to just slightly open. It's when they could vibrate.

And as Bannerman suggest, drain the pressure tank and set the pressure, the bladder might be being overstretch.
 

William Weis

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Thanks for the great help! I identified it was indeed caused by another toilet, very old one. As reminded, I do want to recalibrate the tank pressure soon.
I used a piece of foam rubber between the copper pipe and a nearby joist. The space was open above the basement, so easy to locate.
That's what I did too when I moved in.;)
 
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