How to replace valve on short PEX stub-out?

[swlred]

I need to replace some valves on PEX, but the stub-outs might be too short to simply cut the tubing and replace the valve (see photo below). I tried pulling the tubing out from the wall but there isn't much slack. I *might* be able to cut and replace, but it would be close...

Can anyone recommend a good/better/different way to replace these valves?

 

[Reach4]

Try this google search: pex cut crimp rings

 

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[Clutchcargo]

Try this google search: pex cut crimp rings

Those tools require cutting the pex which I think the OP is trying to avoid.

In any case I'm not sure the pex is going to be usable even if you get the ring off cleanly.
I don't think you're going to get out of cutting the pex but going forward add a NPT brass male adapter so you can remove the next one after it seizes up.
I don't know why those stop valves are still available; as a homeowner, every one that I ever came across was either completely seized or too tight to completely shut off.

 

[Reach4]

Those tools require cutting the pex which I think the OP is trying to avoid.

It was my impression that they did not cut the pex. But I have never attempted to remove such a ring.

EDIT: after looking into this, I now think reusing the pex under the ring is probably not going to work most of the time.

 

[Weekend Handyman]

I am not a plumber or a pro.

I am quite comfortable working with PEX, but I would not be too keen to take that on ... like you said, it's tight.

What is wrong with the valves. I wonder if a repair may be possible.

Regarding decrimping tools, I have SharkBite one you insert into the fitting ... it cuts the pipe. There is also one that comes at it from the side. I have seen them used in this video (Outside Faucet Replacement: Frost Free Wall Hydrant - YouTube) and they also appear to damage the pipe.

 

[Fitter30]

Whats wrong with valves big box stores. Every think why big box stores are cheaper than plumbing supply houses. They can dictate price + volume. But a plumbing house carries a better valve because a plumber can't afford a call back and damage from a leak. Take a look at kitchen or bath faucet box store plastic plumbing supply more brass.

 

[John Gayewski]

You can split those rings off of the pipe and pull the fitting. The hard part would be crimping the new valve in that tight space. This is yet another reason not to use type b pex

 

[Weekend Handyman]

You can split those rings off of the pipe and pull the fitting. The hard part would be crimping the new valve in that tight space. This is yet another reason not to use type b pex

I am not a plumber or pro, but how would he do it without damaging the tubing?

Af few thoughts:

• If you could get the rings off first, you would have an easier time getting a straight cut on the pipe.
• If you get rid of the escutcheons, it might give you an extra 1/4 inch. That being said, I am not sure if these are required under code for fire proofing. If you still have room, you could go back with the some split ring escutcheons.
• You might have an easier time using the cinch-clamp style rings (vs copper crimp rings) to secure the new valves.

 

[Weekend Handyman]

I don't think you're going to get out of cutting the pex but going forward add a NPT brass male adapter so you can remove the next one after it seizes up.

Good idea.

 

[Reach4]

You might try pulling the valves from the wall a bit. Depending on how the pex was put in, there may be easy slack in the wall.

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

Cutting those crimp rings isn't difficult. It just takes a bit of time with a fine tooth metal cutting saw blade By Hand.. Like a hack saw blade. The rings are likely copper so not too tough. Once the rings are off, the valves are easy to remove and replace. Using a dremel tool may overheat and melt the tubing and risk accidentally cutting too deep too fast.

 

[wwhitney]

Cutting those crimp rings isn't difficult. It just takes a bit of time with a fine tooth metal cutting saw blade By Hand

Quick question: are the rings effectively under tension (they want to partially return to their original size), so that when you cut through them, they snap open as you finish the cut? If so, I could see how that would help you in not cutting too far and going into the PEX.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

are the rings effectively under tension (they want to partially return to their original size),

No, once compressed they will stay in that shape. They will be in contact with the pex pipe the entire circumference the entire time.

 

[John Gayewski]

There is a tool that inserts into the end of the pipe and closes. Once closed the blade stops before cutting the tube. It only cuts the ring. It's like a bolt cutter that won't close all of the way, and one side is a rod. The blade stops short of contacting the rod.

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

There is a tool that inserts into the end of the pipe and closes.

Interesting tool... however, this isn't an open end of a regular fitting. At least you would have to cut the business end of the angle stop off and hope you can get that tool inside of it. And is the tool intended to salvage the tube or the fitting?

 

[John Gayewski]

Interesting tool... however, this isn't an open end of a regular fitting. At least you would have to cut the business end of the angle stop off and hope you can get that tool inside of it. And is the tool intended to salvage the tube or the fitting?

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin...zrzmRVj77XAVJw2_phLeM2N2O6YmnouhoCJzQQAvD_BwE

 

[wwhitney]

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-PXCRCUT-2-PEX-Ring-Cutter-1-2-5-8-3-4-and-1

Which says "If you need to repair or replace a PEX fitting, this tool makes the job easier & allows you to re-use the fitting. It can be used for copper, plastic and Polybutylene crimp rings."

Whereas the OP needs to preserve the PEX stub-out, not the fitting. So you'd first have to saw through the stop after the end of the PEX, then use the tool to remove the ring. I still wonder if the end of the PEX would be reusable as is--if you have to cut it back anyway, the OP's problem remains.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Jadnashua]

I'm an advocate of using a copper stubout coming out of the wall that is anchored between the studs behind. IT gives a nice, stable place to install pretty much any valve. Drywall is pretty cheap, it may be time to cut some out...you might find the tubing is clamped, and can loosen it to then free up enough to reuse it, or, put in the copper stubouts.

FWIW, compression fittings work fine on pex...just ensure you've got the proper insert to give the compression ring something to clamp down against. Then, you don't have to worry about trying to remove or save the tubing so you can install a new one later on.

 

[Weekend Handyman]

Dahl sells retrofit valves, which would attach to your existing valve, if you are so inclined.

https://www.dahlvalve.com/products/mini-ball-valves/retrofit/retrofit-511-41-31.php

I wonder about the weight about having two valves on the stub-out; however, I tend to overthink things.

 

[John Gayewski]

Quick question: are the rings effectively under tension (they want to partially return to their original size), so that when you cut through them, they snap open as you finish the cut? If so, I could see how that would help you in not cutting too far and going into the PEX.

Cheers, Wayne

Take a multi tool and cut between the copper ring and the valve. Then the tool will save all of the tubing, minus 1/16" or so. I have used this tool it's pretty self exploratory, but they also explain that you split the ring then pry it off.