How to remove stuck plastic cap over anode rod GE water heater

[Gotta Fix It]

Hi,
Need to remove a stuck cracked plastic cap covering the anode rod on a GE water heater so I can replace the rod. The plastic blocks me from using a socket and I can't pry the plastic cap off. Any suggestions to remove or cut the plastic cap out?

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[Dj2]

Use a wood chisel and hammer it away carefully. If there's some foam insulation in the cavity, knock it out too.
BTW, how old is the WH?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Gotta Fix It]

Use a wood chisel and hammer it away carefully. If there's some foam insulation in the cavity, knock it out too.
BTW, how old is the WH?

About 14 years old

 

[Dj2]

Now the WH is out of warranty.
Why do you want to change the rod?
At 14 y.o, most WHs are ready for retirement.
I would start saving money for a new WH.

 

[Master Plumber Mark]

you will never get that rod out after 14 years.... it will take a huge socket wrench
and an cheater bar and someone to hold the heater firmly while you attempt to
move that nut.... If you slip off the nut you will probably knock your helper out with
the cheater bar so be careful....

and like dj2 said you got to be nuts to attempt to change the rod out on a
14 year old heater


have fun

 

[MACPLUMB]

Like posted above consider changing out that Heater
PHD in Water heaterlogy

 

[Dj2]

"PHD in Water heaterlogy"
PHD from the school of hard knocks.

 

[Jadnashua]

IF on the next one, you think you might want to replace the sacrificial anode sometime later, consider removing the thing before installing, use some PTFE tape on it, then reinstall. THen, you'll have a pretty good chance of getting it out later.

 

[Artm69]

I have a Rheem water, basic gas 40-gallon from Home Depot, with the red, blue and white plastic caps for the hot, cold and anode rod. I've tried three different sockets (all 1-1/16) and they're all too wide to fit down the plastic cap.

The impact ones are too wide but also one regular socket I have. I swear I had it done once before wihtout issue, probably with the same regular socket.

Should I grind around the inside of the cap and force the socket or entirely remove it some other way?

 

[John Gayewski]

I have a Rheem water, basic gas 40-gallon from Home Depot, with the red, blue and white plastic caps for the hot, cold and anode rod. I've tried three different sockets (all 1-1/16) and they're all too wide to fit down the plastic cap.

The impact ones are too wide but also one regular socket I have. I swear I had it done once before wihtout issue, probably with the same regular socket.

Should I grind around the inside of the cap and force the socket or entirely remove it some other way?

Sure no reason not to. You might want a plan to reseal it after your done.

 

[Reach4]

I have a Rheem water, basic gas 40-gallon from Home Depot, with the red, blue and white plastic caps for the hot, cold and anode rod. I've tried three different sockets (all 1-1/16) and they're all too wide to fit down the plastic cap.

The impact ones are too wide but also one regular socket I have. I swear I had it done once before wihtout issue, probably with the same regular socket.

Should I grind around the inside of the cap and force the socket or entirely remove it some other way?

They used to sell sockets for the purpose that are both 6-point, and do not have the chamfer that helps guide the socket onto a head. I don't know if their OD is small enough for you, however.

I don't find that now. OEMTOOLS 22369 may come close, but it may have that chamfer, which is less desirable.

Widening the hole sounds worthwhile, but they really should not have forced you into that.

 

[Fitter30]

Rheem technical support at 800-432-8373.

 

[Master Plumber Mark]

I have a Rheem water, basic gas 40-gallon from Home Depot, with the red, blue and white plastic caps for the hot, cold and anode rod. I've tried three different sockets (all 1-1/16) and they're all too wide to fit down the plastic cap.

The impact ones are too wide but also one regular socket I have. I swear I had it done once before wihtout issue, probably with the same regular socket.

Should I grind around the inside of the cap and force the socket or entirely remove it some other way?

We have run into this many times... I have had to melt the plastic sleeve that goes down the hole to the anode rod with
a red hot screwdriver and then pry the whole piece out with needle nosed pliers.... THEN and only THEN you can get the socket down into the hole and it will fit onto the nut...
You got to think out of the box

 

[Artm69]

So, the plastic cap is strictly for looks and serves no function, correct? Does it just sit on top and around the inner diameter of the hole? If so, then I would think it has no function.

I'll get my soldering iron on it soon...

 

[bingow]

So, the plastic cap is strictly for looks and serves no function, correct? Does it just sit on top and around the inner diameter of the hole? If so, then I would think it has no function...

Our previous WH was gas (State, direct vent). When I changed the anode at about the 6 year point, I left the plastic cap off, and found the pilot light would not stay lit when winds picked up. Cap back on, problem went away.

 

[Artm69]

Here's some pics of a similar water heater I have. The caps are all grey and the same type.

Cap A has the anode rod, which is connected with the hot and cold nipples, as it should be.

Can caps B and C be additional anode rods, installed on the higher warranty versions? This version is only a 6-year warranty.

 

[John Gayewski]

Stuff can happen if an insulated barrier is opened to air. It's better to try and seal it back up, but in many/most cases it should be fine to leave it off.

 

[Fitter30]

The atmospheric vent doesn't have any screws in it. That little tab goes in to a hole top of tank. Being in calf might want to make it right.