How to plumb in my radiator?

[JanSolo]

Hello again, O Wise plumbing elders. It's been a while since I sought your wisdom, but I'm back with a new project and I could use your infinite knowledge.

I have baseboard radiators in my house; fed by a central electric furnace.
I had an L-shaped radiator in my living-room; the last remaining part of a wall that used to divide the room into two smaller rooms.
I've removed the sticking-out radiator and removed the associated plumbing; now I need to attach the remaining radiator into the system.
The fittings are all 3/4 pipe. As you can see, the fittings do not align; what's the best way to bridge this gap? Copper? Iron pipe? Is there some kind of flexible thing that might be easier?

Thanks, O wise masters! I shall do as you instruct!

Cheers

Jan.

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

Looks like a couple 45° bends would do the trick. I'd stick with black iron. Get a combination of 2 45's, 2 Street 45's and a bunch of nipples of varying length.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[JanSolo]

Thanks; will do that and report back!

Cheers!

 

[JanSolo]

OK, I bought a bunch of nipples and 45s... here's my first attempt... You can see it doesn't quite line up.

Second attempt is much better... Used PTFE tape on all the joints this time. How does it look? Can you spot any mistakes? Next step is to refill the system and see if it leaks.

Cheers!

 

[Sylvan]

Why 2 Unions? Not a great idea having a union concealed if possible

 

[JanSolo]

Thanks for replying!
I added the bottom union to make it easier to take the whole thing in and out while making changes.
As you can see, there is not a whole lot of space here; certainly not enough to get a pipe-wrench around the 45s. The only way I could 'tweak' it is by taking the whole thing out using the union.

Is it a bad thing to have a union hidden under the floor like this? Do they leak often or something?

Cheers

Jan.

 

[Jeff H Young]

I havent worked with steam much . but I absolutely prefer a union exposed no they dont leak that often but when a pipe leaks its about 98 percent of time at a joint so eliminating any joint is good and union leaks more often than a coupling or 90. at
your testing it befor burying it ? if it dosent leak at 60 degrees will it leak at 210 or how ever hot it gets.
It looks good I would have told you sooner but didnt know a union was going in

 

[Sylvan]

You could have used a coupling in lieu of a union

 

[Jeff H Young]

no coupling , a 45 right on the bottom nipple. however it makes up but no union on bottom is better

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

The issue with a union is in heating and cooling cycles could cause it to loosen. In a gas system, this type of union is not allowed to be buried. it could be turned loose by the next person to work on the system and not know they've loosened a union.

However, it does look great. The brass union is typically the only one we use to make that final connection as you spin that last 45 to its last tightened position.

 

[Jeff H Young]

The issue with a union is in heating and cooling cycles could cause it to loosen. In a gas system, this type of union is not allowed to be buried. it could be turned loose by the next person to work on the system and not know they've loosened a union.

However, it does look great. The brass union is typically the only one we use to make that final connection as you spin that last 45 to its last tightened position.

My thoughts as well of course on water we bury water all the time on tub valve unions or we used to. but I was thinking the temp extreme a bit more on steam. no we never bury a gas union .

 

[Sylvan]

no coupling , a 45 right on the bottom nipple. however it makes up but no union on bottom is better

no coupling , a 45 right on the bottom nipple. however it makes up but no union on bottom is better

It appears a 45 would be harder to turn then a coupling with the beams in the way, look how much was notched just for the union nut. A coupling could be made up by a basin wrench

 

[JanSolo]

Thanks for all the feedback... I might have another go then to see if I can eliminate the union. My Street 45s arrived in the mail, so I can try those out too. Will post version 3 when it's done.

I'm learning lots, so thanks again!

Jan.

 

[Jeff H Young]

jan as sylvan said its likely just adding a coupling in liew of the union would likely make right up. good luck!

 

[JanSolo]

Hello again, O wisest of plumbers!

Here's my attempt 3 of my radiator plumbing job. You can see that I removed the union and added a much longer nipple to the brass radiator 90 union. What do you chaps think? Looks OK?

Once I clean up the wall, this box thing will cover it... There's a little door panel that covers the hole.

Just from this small job, I've acquired quite the collection of nipples and fittings! Just wanted to flex a little bit!

Question: Home Derpot had run out of malleable iron nipples in a couple of sizes, so I have a few galvanised ones in there... is it ok to mix black iron fittings with galv nipples? Could it cause problems?

Next step is to turn the water on and see if it leaks! I'll do that tomorrow I think.

Cheers

Jan.

 

[Sylvan]

Very nice job


Galvanized pipe isn't used for steam because the high heat of steam and resulting constant expansion and contraction of the piping has a tendency for the zinc coating (the galvanizing) to flake off. The flakes will then clog the orifices in the vents and controls.

Also knowing the steam valves are brass it is not a great idea to use galvanized piping attached to a brass (non ferrous fitting) so we normally refrain from connecting ferrous ad no ferrous metals when possible

 

[Fitter30]

I havent worked with steam much . but I absolutely prefer a union exposed no they dont leak that often but when a pipe leaks its about 98 percent of time at a joint so eliminating any joint is good and union leaks more often than a coupling or 90. at
your testing it befor burying it ? if it dosent leak at 60 degrees will it leak at 210 or how ever hot it gets.
It looks good I would have told you sooner but didnt know a union was going in

System is hot water if it was steam have to have a steam trap.

 

[JanSolo]

System is hot water

Yep, my system is hot-water, not steam. I take it galvanized fittings are ok for this application?

 

[Fitter30]

Proper fittings are cast if you compare the union on the radiator but malleable will work thats what you have.

 

[JanSolo]

Big Update!
I turned the water on and... It leaked EVERYWHERE!
Mostly from the brass 90 union fitting that goes in to the rad.

Questions:
1. How tight should I tighten the fittings? From reading here, it sounds like 'As tight as you can get with a 12-inch pipe wrench' is tight enough.
2. How much PTFE tape should I use? I've been putting two-loops worth onto the threads at each joint. Should I use more?
3. Any tips for testing if a fitting will leak before turning on the water?

Cheers.

Jan.