How to make this leak proof

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MiamiDan

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We have had a large number of leaks into our apartment and just when we thought they were all fixed we get two simultaneous leaks at either end of our apartment.

Thankfully we quickly got to the bottom of the first leak as it comes from a waste line in the apartment above which is currently undergoing construction work.

The plumber for the construction work cut out a segment of cast iron and inserted a PVC branch for a future sink. When the next door washing machine ran, water would leak out (you can see it in this video).

Insert.png


When the plumber came back to fix his work he just tightened the bottom clamp and said it was fine. I couldn't test it because the owner of the washing machine was out.

I don't want it to leak in the future so I want to make sure the repair is bulletproof. It seems to me that even if it is OK now, the branch to the new sink is going to act like a lever and potentially shift the PVC downpipe segment because he is using flexible couplings.

I plan to suggest switching the rubber couplings for shielded versions (something like this).

Does anyone know if the current way it is installed is up to code in Miami? Is there a connection that would allow the PVC pipe to insert into the cast iron? What do you suggest to make it water tight?
 
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Terry

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mission_bandseal.jpg


Your plumber should have used a shielded coupling. They make them in sizes to fit. Some old cast is more of a copper size.
The bands you have aren't even a legal fitting for that. Hopefully you can order up the correct sizing for what you have and get it replaced before closing the wall.
 

MiamiDan

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Thanks for the advice.

The coupling was leaking from the bottom. The plumber was saying it was just because his helper hadn't tightened up the bottom clamp.

I was able to test it this evening and it didn't leak. The guy overseeing the project is saying it is up to Miami-Dade code and it's now fixed. I will try again.

Is there any kind of fitting that would let the PVC fit into the cast iron pipe? Is there any reason why that would be a bad idea other than it being a constriction of the pipe?
 

Jadnashua

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If you clean out a hub, then yes, there are donuts you insert in the hub and then the pvc into the inside of the donut. Those are code approved, but you need to get the properly sized donut. They make them in LOTS of sizes to accommodate the ID of the hub, which is non-standard, while the ID of the rest of the pipe and the OD of the pvc ARE standard.

That all-rubber connection should never pass an inspection when used INSIDE of a home. THey are only approved for use underground where the two ends of the pipe are supported by proper backfill so they can't (or shouldn't, at least) move. Saying it passes code would pale if an honest inspector were to check it out.
 

Dj2

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In a vertical connection, you need to use a shielded coupling, like the one Terry showed you.
Your plumber can tighten the band as much as he wants, but it would still leak.
 

MiamiDan

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I saw the donut route jadnashua but I assumed that was for a hub only. Is that right?

In this case it is 3" PVC sitting on top of sawn off 3" cast iron pipe. I was wondering if there was something that could be cemented on the bottom of the PVC segment that would let it slot into the cast iron pipe so there wasn't the potential for a gap or lateral shifting.

The image below is what I had in mind but from what I read, the narrower section is designed for a no hub connector rather than to be inserted into the cast iron segment:

index.php


Is there anything similar to the above that is designed to slot in to the cast iron pipe? It seems to be a no as far as I can tell.
 

Reach4

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Is there anything similar to the above that is designed to slot in to the cast iron pipe? It seems to be a no as far as I can tell.
What does the cast iron pipe look like? Is there a hub, or what? In this picture, the cast iron pipes have a hub on the left of the picture.
cast_iron_soil.png


https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/cast-iron-hub-waste-pipe-connection.74958/ shows cast iron with a hub.

Whatever you have, you will want to measure carefully. A digital caliper is good for measuring ID. A long-reach digital caliper is good for measuring OD.
63714_I.jpg

Or measure the circumference, and divide by pi.
 

Terry

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The donut was for a hub, which you don't have.
The reason for the metal wrap is to prevent shifting. Wait a few years and that rubber coupling your handyman installed is going to compress and lose it's shape. It's not a pretty sight.
Most likely, your cast is 3-1/8" and your plastic is 3-3/8"
That's a large difference in sizing. The coupling you should have has those two sizes and because of that, and with the metal wrap to keep things aligned, everything snugs down and seals. The Fernco you linked to looks to have the two sizes.
 

MiamiDan

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Time to dig out my calipers it sounds like. Reach4, yep, there is no hub. The cast iron pipe was cut off midway and the PVC just sits on top.

Thanks for the extra info Terry. The guy who did the work is working for the renovators. He is a licensed and insured plumber which is why I didn't push back more. I will make sure there is a metal wrap version on the pipes.
 

Jadnashua

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FWIW, those banded couplers are not designed to fit over a fitting...they are designed to fit over straight pipe. If where they cut off the cast iron, there WAS a hub, it may not have been cut where the pipe was straight, and any curved portion could be problematic.
 
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