How to fix a saddle valve hole on very short pipe

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james1100

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View attachment 41263 Hello
I just ordered new fridge that doesn't have ice make or water dispenser, so I don't need water line hook up for fridge anymore. This is my rental property and I doubt I will ever move in that condo, so I decided to get rid of existing copper water line. The waterline is connected with a self piercing saddle valve. See photo.
I want to remove the copper water line and saddle valve, but I don't know how to fix the hole on the pipe from the saddle valve. The pipe is very short, there's no room for coupling. I don't want to use a hose clamp with rubber gasket since it might leak later.... What should I do? Any advice would be great!
 
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Reach4

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View attachment 41263 Hello
I just ordered new fridge that doesn't have ice make or water dispenser, so I don't need water line hook up for fridge anymore. This is my rental property and I doubt I will ever move in that condo, so I decided to get rid of existing copper water line. The waterline is connected with a self piercing saddle valve. See photo.
I want to remove the copper water line and saddle valve, but I don't know how to fix the hole on the pipe from the saddle valve. The pipe is very short, there's no room for coupling. I don't want to use a hose clamp with rubber gasket since it might leak later.... What should I do? Any advice would be great!
I would turn off the valve by turning clockwise. Disconnect the other end of the tubing. If water does not continue to drip out after the initial time, I would cover that end to prevent dirt entering, and leave it. You may put a fridge with a water/ice dispenser there later.

Alternatively if no dripping, disconnect the tubing at the valve, and leave the valve in place.
Otherwise call a plumber who will remove the valve and solder things up. I don't know if he would slide a repair coupling over the hole, or cut the pipe at the hole, and attach a new right-angle valve there or what.

I am not a plumber.

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Dgeist

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If it were mine, I'd either do one of the following depending on how much having it there bothered me:
1) nothing (close it, cap the end, and leave it alone...because what is it hurting?)
2) drain the line, desolder the fixture side of the shutoff valve and sweat in a new short section of pipe, because that's how it should have been in the first place.

If you really want to get rid of it, don't try to patch it with something. That's more likely to leak later than doing nothing at all. It's a tiny little section of copper that can be replaced in well under an hour (including all prep) for anyone with decent torch-fu.
 

BruceL

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I agree with removing it---have heard a lot of stories of those valves leaking over time. Personally I would just cut off the copper pipe to remove the entire existing valve, saddle valve, 3/8 fitting, and copper supply tubing. Then put in a new valve with the 3/8 connector to a new braided supply line. Your choice whether you get a solder or compression (or sharkbite) supply valve.

I am not a plumber but futzing with trying to repair something like that, unsoldering pipes from valves, flared copper, etc just isn't worth the time, when I know I can just cut the thing off and put a new one on in 5 minutes. The biggest time cost in that job (other than the run to the store) is how hard it would be to get enough clearance between the pipe an back of the cabinet to use a knuckle pipe cutter and solder easily.

Bruce
 

james1100

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Thanks all.
I ended up doing this way, followed Dgiest advice. drain the line, desolder the fixture side of the shutoff valve and sweat in a new short section of pipe. Thanks a lot!
 
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