How to adjust regulator

[Blindog]

Just finish installing a Thermo expansion tank and redoing some plumbing, I also installed a pressure gage. It's going past 100 psi. I tried adjusting regulator to no avail. I'm not sure what to do. Here is a pic of regulator. Water comes onto the bottom. TET has 25psi with main closed and faucet on.

 

[Reach4]

Just checking: the gauge is on the output side of the PRV, right?

https://terrylove.com/watts.htm

TO READJUST Pressure, loosen check nut and turn adjusting screw clockwise to raise pressure and counter clockwise to lower pressure.​

I would crack open a faucet during adjustment.

If it does not adjust, replace or repair the PRV. http://www.watts.com/pages/repairKits_results.asp?pid=776&catId=64


Set the TET expansion tank pressure to the regulated water pressure or a little more.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Blindog]

Just checking: the gauge is on the output side of the PRV, right?

https://terrylove.com/watts.htm

TO READJUST Pressure, loosen check nut and turn adjusting screw clockwise to raise pressure and counter clockwise to lower pressure.​

I would crack open a faucet during adjustment.

If it does not adjust, replace or repair the PRV. http://www.watts.com/pages/repairKits_results.asp?pid=776&catId=64


Set the TET expansion tank pressure to the regulated water pressure or a little more.

 

[Blindog]

Thanks reach4, I'm thinking I got a bad PRV. Should I be worried with 120psi? Can you take the PRV apart and repair them? I didn't have a gauge before so I'm not sure if I did something wrong or maybe knocked some stuff Lose in the PRV. Just a little nervous at this point. Anything jump out at you?

 

[Reach4]

View attachment 37456 Thanks reach4, I'm thinking I got a bad PRV. Should I be worried with 120psi? Can you take thes PRV apart and repair them? I didn't have a gage before so I'm not sure if I did something wrong or maybe knocked some stuff Lose in the PRV. Just a little nervous at this point. Anything jump out at you?

Maybe a little nervious. That pressure is going to be hard on the TET. Maybe raise the precharge air up to the max permitted or 120 PSI, whichever is less.

See if this helps.

 

[Jadnashua]

Plumbing code says residential plumbing is designed for <=80psi, so yes, you should be worried with 120psi in your system. Probably one of the weakest links are the toilet fill valves, but any valve won't like 120psi, and you might find a marginal supply hose along the line, too. Throw in maybe a water hammer situation with your washing machine, and that could end up being costly.

A plumber typically will not rebuild a PRV because the cost of the parts and the labor to do it usually ends up the same or more than replacing it with a new one. It usually will restore it, but if there's a problem, you've wasted both time and money on the part. That's not to say there aren't defective new ones that sneak through once in awhile, but they're rare if you pick a decent brand.

 

[SteveW]

Not to highjack the thread, but going to say one more time that I think you need to support that thermal expansion tank better than using a big zip tie.

Some day that tank will weigh > 40 lbs. A lateral zip tie ain't going to cut it.

 

[Blindog]

Thanks for everyone's input, I am anxious to get the pressure down but Christmas holiday has put a damper on new parts. I'll match the pressure with the TET to make sure I don't waist it. Steve W, not shown is a 2"x6" board with an 8" radius saddle that is under the tank and attached to the plywood manifold board. The zip tie holds the tank into the saddle and the tank has a ridge that transfer the weight into the saddle. I mentioned this in another post knowing that someone would see that as an inadequate system. I'm glad you looked things over and that's the reason I posted the pics,

 

[Dj2]

While you are doing plumbing work, here is one more thing for you to do:

Replace the PVC discharge pipe from the T&P valve to the outside with 3/4" copper - that's the code in my city. Check the code in your city.

 

[hj]

It looks like it is in a basement, which means it may NOT be able to flow to the outside without going uphill, which is definitely ILLEGAL, and also unwise.

 

[Blindog]

Not sure what flow your speaking of "which means it may NOT be able to flow to the outside without going uphill," Are you saying the discharge pipe should be up hill from the drain? It's in a garage and the tank is slightly uphill from the main door. I need to correct the PRV and have some insulating to do and I'll correct the pvc to copper. Thanks again for your advice

 

[Jadnashua]

The outlet of the T&P valve must be able to flow via gravity...IOW, it cannot be sloped uphill. Especially if it's going outside...if it were going uphill and had a slow, intermittent release, the water might end up freezing, plugging it up, and if things went south...blow the tank up along with a good portion of the house with it!