How should I go about replacing this PRV?

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krubs

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So I moved into a new place a few weeks back and noticed that the water pressure will start off really high whenever we first turn on a faucet, and then go down to a normal psi. It took me a few days to even find this thing because it was buried under 2 ft of dirt. I know it needs to be replaced but its such a small and difficult area to work in I'm afraid it won't be possible. The house is on a slab and there is no way to move it inside or anything like that. Any advice?

prv-in-mud-1.jpg


prv-in-mud-2.jpg

Thank you
 

Sylvan

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Terrible installation.

Very inconsiderate installer


I would leave well enough a lone until it has to be replaced
 

Reach4

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So I moved into a new place a few weeks back and noticed that the water pressure will start off really high whenever we first turn on a faucet, and then go down to a normal psi. It took me a few days to even find this thing because it was buried under 2 ft of dirt. I know it needs to be replaced but its such a small and difficult area to work in I'm afraid it won't be possible. The house is on a slab and there is no way to move it inside or anything like that. Any advice?
I would ask the water department/company what they know about that PRV. There may have been a lot of installations that used the same unit. Maybe it is rebuildable from the top.

So this thing is about 3 ft down, I can tell it had a lid on the compartment, so a foot or so down in the vault and and 2 feet of dirt on top of that.
 

krubs

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I would ask the water department/company what they know about that PRV. There may have been a lot of installations that used the same unit. Maybe it is rebuildable from the top.

So this thing is about 3 ft down, I can tell it had a lid on the compartment, so a foot or so down in the vault and and 2 feet of dirt on top of that.

I have spoken to them a couple of times during the whole process of finding it. They said everything on our side of the meter would have been the builders that installed it. From my research, it looks to be a Zurn PRV. Similar to this - https://smile.amazon.com/Wilkins-34-70XL-Pressure-Regulator/dp/B004X2XB4I/ref=sr_1_8?crid=2LQB6JJDGDOD6&dchild=1&keywords=zurn+pressure+reducing+valve+3/4&qid=1595950926&sprefix=zurn+press,aps,166&sr=8-8

Nice thought on the rebuild. It may be possible and would definitely be an easier solution than attempting to remove this one.
 
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wwhitney

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So I moved into a new place a few weeks back and noticed that the water pressure will start off really high whenever we first turn on a faucet, and then go down to a normal psi.
Do you have an expansion tank on your hot water heater?

Cheers, Wayne
 

krubs

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70.jpg

That one has markings cast into the side. You could maybe clear enough dirt to get your cellphone to take a photo of the markings, or put a mirror down there, and use a camera that can focus on the lettering.

https://www.zoro.com/zurn-wilkins-repair-kit-34-in-rk34-70xl/i/G6208316/ is an example of a repair kit. I don't know how installable these things would be from the top.

That's definitely it! I was able to see those markings in one the other pictures I had on my phone. I also found this video
so I think I could manage it. Thank you!
 

krubs

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Would there be any difference just buying a new unit and dissembling, that way I could throw a new bell housing on there as well? Or do I need the repair kit?
 

krubs

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Cool, thanks! I'm extremely relieved that this model is easily repairable. Assuming I don't have any difficulty knocking the bell housing loose. Thanks everyone.
 

krubs

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Should I re-bury the PRV/pipe so it doesn't freeze ? Or at least insulate it? It rarely gets lower than 30F here so it may not matter
 
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Reach4

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Should I re-bury the PRV/pipe so it doesn't freeze ? Or at least insulate it?
That valve box should have a cover. Filling the space with insulation, would be good. XPS or EPS closed cell foam cut to size would be good.

Would there be any difference just buying a new unit and dissembling, that way I could throw a new bell housing on there as well? Or do I need the repair kit?
I was wondering that too, since the kit costs almost as much as new valve. So could you pick the parts out of the new valve easily? I don't know. I see the kit includes a tube of lube, which you would not get with a new valve. Plus, the kit has a new o-ring that has not been compressed already. https://www.zurn.com/media-library/web_documents/pdfs/installation/is70xl-pdf

I see that unit does not have a screen. Maybe the failure mode was just a particle keeping the seat from closing all of the way.
 
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krubs

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Just an update for everyone, I got the new parts installed yesterday. Getting that old bell housing off was probably the most difficult thing I've ever done, that thing was ridiculously rusted and there was just no room to get any leverage.

I went ahead and bought a new regulator so I could put a new bell housing on there, and it was definitely worth it. Here's the shiny new one and the old crusty one.

krubs-01.jpg


krubs-02.jpg


Pressure is now at a steady 60 psi
 
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