How many microns?

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BIGBREW

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Thinking about putting in a 50 micron spin down filter that Reach mentioned so I don't have to keep spending money on replacement filters.

After the spin down filter I have an air injection carbon tank, softener and uv light.

How many microns will the carbon tank filter down to?

Should I keep a smaller micron filler after the spin down or will the carbon tank clean the rest up?
 

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ditttohead

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The 50 Micron Hydra would be ideal. Carbon tanks don't typically have any technical sediment reduction rating but in general we expect they can filter well below 50 microns. With the 50 micron filter your carbon tank should do just fine on its own with a regular backwashing.

 

Reach4

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After the spin down filter I have an air injection carbon tank, softener and uv light.
I think you are supposed to have a 5 micron or finer filter in front of a UV light. Does the UV light manual say something about that?
 

BIGBREW

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I didn't install the light. I'll have to take a look at the directions.

Also I forgot to add we don't drink this wate right now. Well is under a year old so I'm syl trying to get everything correct before we start drinking it.

I could put the spin down before the air injection and move my other filter between the softener and uv light down to 5 micron

Im trying to fight pressure drop. Im changing my sentiment filter before the air injection every couple weeks right now I'm using a 20 micron poly filter there.
 

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Reach4

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I think your little cartridge filter could be moved in front of the UV with a 5 micron cartridge. Your new Hydra or spindown or TwistIIClean would be on the front line after the pressure tank.

I put my carbon tank on the front line. Maybe I shouldn't have. I don't think I have as much sediment as you, but I did find rocks in my WH, which had accumulated before I added filtering.

I don't have UV. Many really like them. I figure that with a deep cased well, there are no pathogens... but I do sanitize after well work.

You should flush out the pressure tank on some schedule, which you could determine by experiment. Maybe run the hose into a big bucket to see if much sediment gets collected there.
 

ethermion

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New guy here, so be gentle if my advice is not up to standards.

But, I have been on a well all my life and have some observations.

Well water is like weather in some ways. Sometime it behaves, sometimes not. My well from time to time coughs up sediment. I use two spin downs - one 100, one 50. Sometimes the 100 clogs, less so, the 50. Mostly, we are good for weeks, but sometimes only days. My screens tend to clog with silt/clay and have to be pulled out then tooth brushed to get things back up and running. So I have an extra set of screens. Bypass, swap screens, toothbrush with vinegar later. Downtime is 1 minute. Makes a huge difference to my downstream BB battery. And, spin down filters are very affordable. No reason not to.

Maybe I misunderstand the original post, but a carbon filter should not be viewed as a sediment filter.

UV works best if there are no particulates in the water. 5 micron or better before the lamp really is a must. But, many of my friends are running UV for no reason other than it was it was there when they bought the house. Doesn't hurt anything other than your wallet, but... I test my water from time to time, and ain't got no boogers. So no UV in my system. Parent living with me, without an immune system, so I keep a close eye on the water.
 

Reach4

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Well water is like weather in some ways. Sometime it behaves, sometimes not. My well from time to time coughs up sediment. I use two spin downs - one 100, one 50. Sometimes the 100 clogs, less so, the 50. Mostly, we are good for weeks, but sometimes only days. My screens tend to clog with silt/clay and have to be pulled out then tooth brushed to get things back up and running. So I have an extra set of screens. Bypass, swap screens, toothbrush with vinegar later. Downtime is 1 minute. Makes a huge difference to my downstream BB battery. And, spin down filters are very affordable. No reason not to.
Useful report.

What size are your spindown filters? Since these things come in different sizes, bigger has to be better for capacity.

The toothbrush thing... the backwashing Filtri Hydra and the TwistIIClean would make that simpler it would seem. Cool video above. TwistIIClean is rated for 100 PSI max -- not as high of pressure as the other two, but enough for after a pressure switch and pressure tank.

It's good to hear that you catch clay. That is unexpected.
 

ditttohead

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Carbon filters are not designed to be used as sediment filters, but that does not mean that they don't effectively, if only mistakenly work fairly well for sediment reduction. We would never recommend using a carbon for reducing but they do a fairly decent job. Obviously this would only apply to backwashing carbon systems. We assist many dealers with refurbishing equipment and train them on maintenance in our distribution center here and we can usually tell if a non backwashing carbon tank was installed with the carbon in an upflow or downflow configuration. The downflow tanks are usually completely packed with dirt and sediment, the upflow tanks are fairly clean but often times missing a lot of carbon.

As to the "cleaning with a toothbrush" Can I assume you have the Rusco spin down filters? Those filters were the only real option for many years but they required constant manual cleaning. They work great but unfortunately they are not very good at self cleaning. Removing the sump and cleaning the filter is very easy and their screens are durable so you can usually clean them for several years. The replacement screens are also reasonably priced. The Twist II Clean are great but unfortunately the company has been sold off and after some serious QC issues it is not an item that we promote all that often. On a well system we have had acceptable results with the Twist II Clean but in any application that can see pressure spikes...

The Atlas Filtri have basically bridged the gap between the two filters. They self clean with ease in most applications, and they can handle the pressue without failure. They are a bit more expensive but I guess nothing is free. We sell all three so I don't really have a reason to promote one over the other. If I had any of these three, I would keep them. If I were buying a new one the Hydra would be my choice.
 

ethermion

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My spin downs are iSpring. One of my boys has a Rusco installed, and it seems the sizes are similar.
They do catch sediment - black sand kinda stuff, and that does spin down and out. Very happy with that. 3.5 baths, a dozen faucets, clothes washer, blah - and that problem is now confined to the spin downs. Usually a flush is all that is required. But, from time to time, the well offers up this goo that does not flush, and can only be removed mechanically, aka tooth brush.

Hydra looks great, but too late for me. I was always cleaning toilet screens, faucet screens, replacing shower heads. Then one day I noticed that my fairly new clothes washer was filling with water when off. Bad attitude, low IQ and off to Home Depot. And so, the iSpring. Major improvement over nothing.
 

BIGBREW

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I have the Glasco C7 Classic. I'll be moving things around once im out of the 20 micron filters I bought.

Thanks for the advice. If there is more keep it coming. I was looking at the Ispring spin down. Housing looks sturdy.
 

ethermion

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True, the iSpring is a big hunk of metal. Doesn't mean it works better than other options, though. Happy with mine, and about to install a 3rd one inline since HomeDepot is stupid and sent me a whole new one after I only ordered a replacement screen. 200->100->50.

My son likes his Rusco, but his needs are different than mine. Not all water is the same.

Such that dittohead offers up the Hydra, I would pay attention.

Not an expert by any means, but I can tell you that the more gookus you can trap in a spin down makes everything downstream work better, without consumables. Don't forget to buy a toothbrush, no matter your choice.
 
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