How has my new heat ever worked??!! (Navien NCB-240E w/ Taco Zone controller)

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MrMackster

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I ran into an issue with my new boiler(Navien NCB-240E) was intermittently not firing even though my Taco Zone controller was lit up and zone pumps were on. About ~25 days after install, woke up to a 45 degree house and my eco bee was saying the boiler wasn't working because the temp had dropped. Zone pumps were on and zone light were lit up, but boiler wasn't on. Tech comes out and right before he gets here, everything starts working. We had emergency gas work on the street during the middle of the night, and he thought maybe an air bubble had caused an issue. He bled the gas lines anywhere just in case. No errors on the Navien.

Later that day, same issue, different tech comes back but again, it starts heating up right before he gets here. We call navien, on hold for over and hour and we get disconnected. Boiler has been running for over an hour perfectly fine. He says to call back if it happens again.

Next day, wake up same issue. Tech comes, boiler turns on magically before he gets here, we call navien and get through, we got through all the navien stuff, and everything checks off. Output Temp good, good enough delta on return temp (25 degrees?), pressure good, all the dip switches are correct, etc. They tell us to short circuit TT and if it runs ok after that, issue probably a bad Zone Controller.

Everything works great for 4 days, so they replaced the zone controller. Well, same thing happened again last night after working for 3 days as we hit another really cold night, Ecobee sent me an email saying it was calling heat for a few hours and the temp had dropped a 5 degrees. I go to the boiler, Zone controller lit up, pumps on, heat and fire icon on the boiler not lit up, no errors.

Since the last time this happened, I picked up a multimeter and did some testing. I removed the TT wires from the boiler and noticed there was no continuity. If I understand how TT is supposed to work, the boiler should be running 24v over the wire to the zone controller, and zone controller should be completing the circuit right? If Zone's aren't calling, TT circuit won't complete, boiler won't fire. I tested 24V over the TT terminals on the Boiler itself.

Well, when I noticed TT had no continuity, I started tracing wires back to the Zone controller, and I discovered that the TT on the Zone controller was actually connected to the Outdoor Reset Temp sensor connection on the furnace control board, and the actual outdoor temperature sensor wire was connected to the TT on the boiler. At some point someone must have crossed wires during the install. I am 99% sure this wiring setup has always been like this since this unit got installed a month ago but I have had working heat except for 3 instances where I got into this state. I was there watching every time they were here checking on this issue and when they replaced the Zone controller, and the outdoor reset wires were never touched.

So my question is, how would my boiler have been working to correctly heat my house to the right temp if TT wasn't connected to the right thing? The only thing I can think of is that the Navien somehow detects the flow from the Zone pumps and turns it self on. I called Navien to try and find out if that is plausible, but they are getting the slammed with calls, and the tech agent wanted nothing to do with diagnosing this issue since everything works fine when I short circuit TT. He claimed TT was the only way and Boiler wasn't at fault.

I guess its also plausible that the outdoor temp sensor was completing TT except in these really cold nights, and on other nights with the zone pumps off, my the house wouldn't be getting over temp and boiler might have been short cycling off because of no change to the water in out water temp?

So anyone have any ideas why my heat would have ever worked?

Side Note: When they came to diagnose this issue the first time, the boiler started firing right before they got here and we had some gas construction on the street that night so the guy figured it as a gas supply issue and bled the gas line, but I did note that the Navien was showing -98 on the outdoor temp sensor to the tech, who thought that maybe it wasn't showing the right temp because I had the outdoor reset curve turned off. I wonder if its -98 because its not actually connected to anything!
 

djdavenport

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Not sure if this will help, but it might provide some background. The Navien ODR sensor is simply a NTC (negative temperature coefficient) thermistor, probably calibrated at 10K ohms/77 degrees. As the temperature drops, the resistance increases arriving at something like 121K ohms at the very cold temperatures you're talking about. The two connections--TT and ODR--on the boiler are looking for different things. The TT is looking for continuity. On or off. The ODR terminal is looking for load.

At some point, it seems to me, as the temperature dropped and the load increased, the boiler's computer interpreted it as being an open switch, equivalent to the thermostat/controller not calling for heat. Also, the extreme low reading on the ODR that your tech noted (the "F" reading) would correspond with very high resistance--or a downright open circuit--which you would get if the Taco zone controller were not calling for heat. Also, easy to tell if the ODR is activated since an ODR indicator will appear in the display. If the ODR is not enabled, the indicator won't be lit and you'll get a -- in the "G" perameter.

Anyway, FWIW...
 

MrMackster

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Thank you @djdavenport .

So it sounds like its plausible some combination of the ODR providing continuity, and zone pumps circulating the water may have caused the boiler to appear to work somewhat correctly? I am still really surprised, I almost didn't believe it when I traced the wires.

Two questions:

1) do you think this could have damaged the ODR all?
2) Does the ODR indicator appear on the display even if I am not using a curve currently? I just have it set to 180 right now, but planning on fidgeting its the curves at some point. I only noticed the -98F by clicking through the Info screen.
 

djdavenport

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#1. Easy to tell. Get a multimeter and set it to ohms. (Make sure it's in the 10K or 20K range if you can select. Some automatic multimeters will sniff it out for you. If you have it set in the lower settings, it will read infinity, which isn't very helpful.) I'm not 100% that Navien uses a 10K Thermistor, but it's usually the most commonly used in these applications and certainly covers the range. (It tops out at -39 degrees). If it's about zero* F outside, it should read 82K ohms. If it's 31*F, it should ready about 35K ohms. Point is if you're getting some resistance significally higher than 10K ohms, you're probably fine. Plus, I couldn't imagine much voltage or current at the boiler TT terminals, but I'm not sure. Not sure I'd worry.

#2 No, simply connecting the ODR sensor won't enable it. You'll have to go to 1.PAR menu (it's in the manual) and the "A" item on the list is a toggle between ODR off/on. If you were seeing -98F on the regular user menu, I can only imagine it was your 240's way of saying WTF. Once you enable the ODR, you'll also need to select the type of heat load (baseboard, etc) or you can customize your own curve, set high and low temperatures, etc.

One other thing to keep in mind. Once you enable the ODR, any SH temperature you set on the display will be meaningless. IOW, ODR will override it. If my ODR calls for 120*F supply temperature, I could set the temperature on the display to 200*F and I'll still get 120*. They should probably disable the SH temperature set if you've got ODR enabled. (At least that's how it works on mine).

The good news is, once you get ODR dialed in, it's really sweet. We've been really happy with our 240e.
 
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