How do I use the 4 screws (not the bolts) that come with the flange extender (floor is concrete)

[Mini Me]

I have this flange extender and as you can see it comes with for screws that probably can be used when there is wood floor (main or upper level floor). I am installing this in the basement and the floor is concrete slab. Since I am tiling I will need to install this. How do I use the four screws in this situation or what do I use to functionally replace them

The existing flange is metal in my case

 

[Jadnashua]

Drill holes in the concrete either for something like TapCons, or a larger hole for either a lead anchor or a plastic one, then the appropriately sized screws into the anchors.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Breplum]

We never use screws (Assuming that the flange is secure and set in concrete properly!!!). Here is what works:

1. Clean flange extremely well
2. Silicone caulk completely each piece to the next, incl. to the pristine flange.
3. Use long brass closet bolts (NOT plated steel) and spin on stainless steel or brass washer and nut on each bolt to secure the sandwich.
4. Set WC normally to the floor using a normal or extra thick no-seep wax ring with another set of non corrosive nut/washers.

 

[Mini Me]

From what you are saying the bolts you are mentioning will replace the screws in the picture. If that is the case then my problem stays the same...what do I secure the bolts to? There is no matching holes in the original existing metal flange . Maybe I can use the slots for the bolts used to secure in place the toilet sit

 

[Reach4]

Use long brass closet bolts (NOT plated steel) and spin on stainless steel or brass washer and nut on each bolt to secure the sandwich.

Would you prefer 1/4 or 5/16 bolts for this?

From what you are saying the bolts you are mentionig will replace the screws in the picture. If that is the case then my problem stays the same...what do I secure the bolts to?

He is saying that the extra nuts and washers on the closet bolts will hold the rings together. The silicone adhesive/caulk/rtv will provide sealing, and the nuts squeeze it together. The intact closet flange below provides the hold-down. If the closet flange below is not intact, you will need to deal with that.

Make sure the closet bolts are in the right place before silicone and extra washers and nuts.

 

[LLigetfa]

If that is the case then my problem stays the same...what do I secure the bolts to? There is no matching holes in the original existing metal flange .

Then what was holding the toilet down originally? If the original flange deteriorated, then what you need is a repair flange, not simple spacers that are not designed to hold the toilet down.

 

[Mini Me]

Are you guys suggesting that the purple flat screws that replace the regular screws secure against the bottom blue flange or they just secure the two green and yellow flange extensions together.
In the latter then would the silicon and the threaded bolts that secure the toilet secure the yellow-green sandwich in place ?

 

[LLigetfa]

The purple screws do not hold the toilet in place. The two black closet bolts pictured do that. If you look closely, they engage the original flange slot. As mentioned, you might need extra long bolts.

 

[Mini Me]

The purple screws do not hold the toilet in place. The two black closet bolts pictured do that. If you look closely, they engage the original flange slot. As mentioned, you might need extra long bolts.

I never said they they do...what exactly from what I said makes you believe that that was my understanding
This is what I wrote above

the threaded bolts that secure the toilet

so I am referring to bolts, heads down not flat screws heads up
the representation is missing the threads on the purple screws and a couple of thins ...it is just meant to make the communication easy for me as I do not have the technical language you guys have, sorry if I am confusing you

 

[Reach4]

It could be that the tapcons could reinforce and work against upward tension. So not worthless, but a lot of work. So if your underlying closet flange ring is not in good shape, that could take the place of needing a repair ring. I don't speak from experience.

If you use Tapcons, use the appropriate drill bit, and drill at least as deep as you are told. Blow out the dust before you screw the tapcons in.

I never said they they do...what exactly from what I said makes you believe that that was my understanding
This is what I wrote above

You sound combative today.

 

[Jadnashua]

If the original flange is properly anchored, and you can align things to use the toilet bolt slots, then silicone will hold the extension rings in place, while the original flange's bolt slots will hold the toilet down.

It looks like the extension was designed to go through the slots of the original flange to anchor it to the floor. Technically, you just want the stack to be waterproof, so the silicone will do that. Then, you need a solid flange somewhere in that stack to ensure the toilet can be anchored well. In reality, over a tiled floor, the caulking around the toilet holds things more than the bolts. You don't want to get them super tight, or you risk cracking your toilet, especially if the floor isn't perfectly flat...the porcelain doesn't bend well and is brittle (but strong). There's not much friction between the porcelain toilet and a typical porcelain (or even regular) ceramic tile.

 

[Mini Me]

It could be that the tapcons could reinforce and work against upward tension. So not worthless, but a lot of work. So if your underlying closet flange ring is not in good shape, that could take the place of needing a repair ring. I don't speak from experience.

If you use Tapcons, use the appropriate drill bit, and drill at least as deep as you are told. Blow out the dust before you screw the tapcons in.

You sound combative today.

I apologize for that if I came across that way...keep in mind that English is my second language and I do not always get the right wording

 

[Mini Me]

If the original flange is properly anchored, and you can align things to use the toilet bolt slots, then silicone will hold the extension rings in place, while the original flange's bolt slots will hold the toilet down.

It looks like the extension was designed to go through the slots of the original flange to anchor it to the floor. Technically, you just want the stack to be waterproof, so the silicone will do that. Then, you need a solid flange somewhere in that stack to ensure the toilet can be anchored well. In reality, over a tiled floor, the caulking around the toilet holds things more than the bolts. You don't want to get them super tight, or you risk cracking your toilet, especially if the floor isn't perfectly flat...the porcelain doesn't bend well and is brittle (but strong). There's not much friction between the porcelain toilet and a typical porcelain (or even regular) ceramic tile.

I can probably use the bolt slots to tighten 2 or three of the 4 screws. Maybe I will drill another hole if that is the case

 

[Breplum]

It is imperative that the original cast iron flange is secured to the concrete.
Usually that is done during the original pour, with inverted brass closet bolts which are formed as anchors.
Barring that, then possibly long Tapcons with proper bit and hammerdrilled (not rotohammered) as an afterthought.
Rotohammering caused too much damage to the drilled hole, leading to poor grip.

 

[Mini Me]

I would hate to have to drill in concrete in that area
I am wondering if would be safer to drill holes in the flange.
This is what my flange looks like, not sure if it is cast iron

 

[Mini Me]

I think I should buy 2 or three of these
https://www.rona.ca/en/product/aqua...ia-x-7-in-outer-dia-x-7-in-w-3386-080-0173465

 

[Mini Me]

Ugh...I don't need to buy anything damn....I just need to drill new holes in the plastic flange extender, to match the hole pattern in the existing hole pattern...

 

[Reach4]

This is what my flange looks like, not sure if it is cast iron

A magnet attracts cast iron. A magnet does not attract plastic or brass.

 

[LLigetfa]

If the existing flange is sound and secure, then you don't need to drill holes to match and you don't need to replace the existing screws provided they too are sound. You could rely on silicone seal adhesive to temporarily hold the spacers in place as the two closet bolts will sandwich and hold them permanently when bolted down.

I used a non-ferrous repair ring as a spacer when I tiled my bathroom as I did not trust the old ferrous ring and old screws.

 

[Mini Me]

hmm the flange is a little bit bent, probably 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch at most.
Since I am installing those rings I am considering carving a corresponding footprint in the first ring
Any other ways to deal with this?