How do I remove copper kitchen stub out?
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hj
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Why are you trying to remove it? When you get it out the ONLY "replacement" would be another piece of copper SOLDERED, not "glued", in.
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Gary Swart
In the Trades
To remove a soldered joint, you heat it until the solder is melted. You will know when this happens because you should be pulling on the stub with pliers. When the solder is fully melted, the stub will just pull out. The install a new piece, the interior of the tee must be cleaned of solder which involves heating and brushing with a wire brush designed for that size fitting. There will be a thin coating of solder remaining, but no ridges. For that point it is a basic sweat process. Clean and flux the surfaces of the pieces, heat until solder melts and is drawn into the joint, let cool. Might be a problem for a novice because of the location. Keep a spray bottle of water within easy reach as fire is always a concern when soldering in a tight, enclosed space with wood very close. Safest thing to do is call a professional.
Stuff
Well-Known Member
Look close and you can see the bottom of the stub-out is torn/corroded. So it needs replaced with another short pipe. I assume it is a kitchen sink with a 1 1/2" or 2" so can be difficult to heat without opening the wall up a bit more and putting a flame protector behind. I would also solder on a brass waste connector but some think that is overkill.
The electric cable most likely needs pulled back at least temporarily so it doesn't burn. Converting it to a box and receptacle would be good if you can do it.
The electric cable most likely needs pulled back at least temporarily so it doesn't burn. Converting it to a box and receptacle would be good if you can do it.
Gary Swart
In the Trades
After looking closer at what you have and reading the comments from Stuff, I would agree with Stuff. Open the wall up a lot. Repairing drywall is about the simplest chore there is and you will need to have enough access for the torch to get good angles. Flame protectors for sure. I have use
#10 cans opened and flattened and they do make commercial ones. However, unless you have some experience with soldering, this is not really a job for ones first time with a torch. This is a larger fitting than I first though and will require more heating than say a 1/2" or 3/4" water line. Sometimes the best advice we can give a DIY is to get a pro.
#10 cans opened and flattened and they do make commercial ones. However, unless you have some experience with soldering, this is not really a job for ones first time with a torch. This is a larger fitting than I first though and will require more heating than say a 1/2" or 3/4" water line. Sometimes the best advice we can give a DIY is to get a pro.
On this sink drain, I cut out what was there and replaced it with ABS and some Mission couplings.
Thank you. I agree that it's not for a novice to do. A professional gave me an estimate of $400. Said he had to do all these other things in addition. I just want that pipe coming out of the wall fixed.
Thank you. Yes, it's corroded and was leaking. Just wondering what some options are to fix it.
On this sink drain, I cut out what was there and replaced it with ABS and some Mission couplings.
Thank you Terry. I think this is what a friend just suggested as well and think this will be what we try.
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