I just tried a flood test on a new shower pan. I used mortar to slope my shower pan to the drain and then used 3 coats of redguard over it. I think the redguard is not thick or even enough and that the water seeped through. There is color variation in the redguard now. If that is what happened, do I need to pull the mortar out and start over? Does this mean there is now water between the mortar and my concrete floor below (this is a basement shower).
How can I tell where the water went on my failed shower pan flood test?
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WorthFlorida
Clinical Trail on a Cancer Drug Started 1/31/24. ☹
How did you plug the drain? There be an awful lot of water under it if it all leaked through so I'm guessing most of it went down the drain.
You'll need a rubber membrane. Redgard is good but it cannot work alone though the installation instructions seems to state that it can be. Redgard does state water proofing and it takes several coatings or layers. Here is their installation instructions but a rubber membrane is 100% all the time and it can be laid down over the Redgard. https://www.custombuildingproducts....proofing-membranes-underlayments/redgard.aspx
When tile is finally laid down and grouted, grout is not water proof and water will seep throughout the grout to the underpayment, redgard or rubber membrane. You can seal the grout but eventually is will allow very little water to seep under the tile if there are any voids. Keeping the grout sealed will help it. This little amount will be blocked by the membrane or Redgard. Since you are on a concrete floor there will be nothing worry about.
See my last post from just last night. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....ower-pan-do-i-need-a-liner.69074/#post-598806
You'll need a rubber membrane. Redgard is good but it cannot work alone though the installation instructions seems to state that it can be. Redgard does state water proofing and it takes several coatings or layers. Here is their installation instructions but a rubber membrane is 100% all the time and it can be laid down over the Redgard. https://www.custombuildingproducts....proofing-membranes-underlayments/redgard.aspx
When tile is finally laid down and grouted, grout is not water proof and water will seep throughout the grout to the underpayment, redgard or rubber membrane. You can seal the grout but eventually is will allow very little water to seep under the tile if there are any voids. Keeping the grout sealed will help it. This little amount will be blocked by the membrane or Redgard. Since you are on a concrete floor there will be nothing worry about.
See my last post from just last night. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....ower-pan-do-i-need-a-liner.69074/#post-598806
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Jadnashua
Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
FWIW, grout sealant is meant to slow the absorption of stuff to allow you a bit of time to clean off any spill prior to it becoming a permanent stain. It only slows it down absorption, doesn't stop it.
RedGard can work, if applied exactly per the instructions. Not my favorite substance for a shower pan. It needs two coats, each applied with no pinholes, thin spots, or runs, within the min/max thickness. It's not like painting a wall. Too thick is nearly as bad as too thin. Too thin, it can leak. Too thick and you can impact the bond with the tile (and increase the time it needs to cure initially). You must let it cure properly before adding the second layer. It is also very critical about how you deal with the pan to the drain assembly, and not all drains are suitable for use with it.
If you're lucky, it was simply a poor seal with the drain plug, or the plug was not installed deep enough.
Depending on how much water leaked out (did you account for evaporation?), you might be able to use a moisture meter or an infrared camera to see if it's not visible otherwise. If you keep it full and extend the flood test, eventually, you will notice where the problem is. You need to resolve that before you go any further.
Personally, I much prefer a solid, sheet membrane versus a liquid applied one. With one of them, you worry about the seams, but the sheet itself is perfectly waterproof.
RedGard can work, if applied exactly per the instructions. Not my favorite substance for a shower pan. It needs two coats, each applied with no pinholes, thin spots, or runs, within the min/max thickness. It's not like painting a wall. Too thick is nearly as bad as too thin. Too thin, it can leak. Too thick and you can impact the bond with the tile (and increase the time it needs to cure initially). You must let it cure properly before adding the second layer. It is also very critical about how you deal with the pan to the drain assembly, and not all drains are suitable for use with it.
If you're lucky, it was simply a poor seal with the drain plug, or the plug was not installed deep enough.
Depending on how much water leaked out (did you account for evaporation?), you might be able to use a moisture meter or an infrared camera to see if it's not visible otherwise. If you keep it full and extend the flood test, eventually, you will notice where the problem is. You need to resolve that before you go any further.
Personally, I much prefer a solid, sheet membrane versus a liquid applied one. With one of them, you worry about the seams, but the sheet itself is perfectly waterproof.
Jadnashua
Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
What's in now? A flood test is normally done after the liner is installed prior to the addition of anything else.
Can you get access underneath the shower?
Seems you have a choice of starting over or maybe considering adding a vinyl liner, or if you choose a surface membrane like Kerdi or a similar one, replacing the drain that's compatible and going that way.
If you can't locate where all of the water leaked, just adding more RedGard on top is not a good idea. You may have saturated some things, and RedGard can't be installed over a saturated mud bed or it will never cure. What's damp underneath should, eventually, dry out, but it may take awhile. It will dry out faster if you tear things out, and that should give you a better idea about where it's leaking.
Can you get access underneath the shower?
Seems you have a choice of starting over or maybe considering adding a vinyl liner, or if you choose a surface membrane like Kerdi or a similar one, replacing the drain that's compatible and going that way.
If you can't locate where all of the water leaked, just adding more RedGard on top is not a good idea. You may have saturated some things, and RedGard can't be installed over a saturated mud bed or it will never cure. What's damp underneath should, eventually, dry out, but it may take awhile. It will dry out faster if you tear things out, and that should give you a better idea about where it's leaking.
