Now you are starting to see the problem. Plus you still need a pressure tank installed close to the pump system, so it can't all just go underground. Here is the best pic I could find.
House on a hill with no water pressure
- Thread starter Mark Alan
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Now you are starting to see the problem. Plus you still need a pressure tank installed close to the pump system, so it can't all just go underground. Here is the best pic I could find.
There are special well caps with seals including seals for the wires passing through, such as http://www.milbyco.com/installation-accessories/well-caps-well-seals/4872
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Mark Alan
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Reach4 what I was talking about is going from the meter to a 6 inch or so pipe. Then install the submersible pump in that pipe surrounded by water. Take the output of the pump out of the 6 inch pipe and push water up hill through the 2 inch or run the water output and electrical cable in the 2 inch pipe. Like a horizontal well pipe with some angle. I found sealed electrical feed through for pressure and vac.
I was just curious if this were possible.
I was just curious if this were possible.
That is what is in the picture above. It has a 3" submersible pump in a 4" Stainless Steel pipe with 1" female fittings on the ends for the meter and the other for the house. Then it also has the motor wires coming through a compression grommet. Here is another picture of it. But you still need a little pressure tank on the pipe just after the pump.
Mark Alan
Member
Yes I looked up the pump. Very impressive, and expensive. It was pushing 2k for the system. The pump was 1600 to 1700. That's why I was asking about making something that was similar.
I have made them lots of different ways. Some 4" PVC with a couple of 4" Vanstone threaded flanges. You can use a 4 X 1 threaded bushing on each end to connect to the meter and water line. In the side you can use something similar to a tank adapter. I had to make my own rubber grommets to fit inside the pipe from the tank adapter and fit each individual wire going to the motor. If it is a 3 wire motor you need a grommet with 3 holes the same size as the individual wires. Then a nut to compress the grommet and squeeze it around the wires so it can hold the 50 PSI incoming pressure.
Is that worthwhile when you can buy a multi-stage booster pump?
Sometimes it is when you don't want to hear or see the pump system, and it could keep from needing a well house. That is except for the fact that you still need a pressure tank close to the unit. You can bury the unit and the pressure tank, but that means digging it up when repairs are needed. A multi-stage booster pump would be much easier and less expensive, you just need a little well house to put it in.
Why would you need a pressure tank close to the pump if the pressure switch and tank are at the house? The pressure switch at the house seems that it would maintain pressure better at the house due varying flows. If independent power at the bottom was powering the pump, then I see the pressure switch and pressure tank at the pump.
I now see you have to keep these multi-stage centrifugal pumps dry, unlike a submersible.
You are correct. The pressure switch and tank can go at the house. But then you also need the power to come from the house to the pump. If there is power at the pump site, you will need to keep the pressure switch and tank there as well.
Alsadair
New Member
My mother has a very similar situation - the pump at the bottom of the hill is cycling between 35 and 55 PSI and drawing water from the lake. The house is probably 50 feet higher in elevation and has a filtration system. The pressure at the house is understandbly low. The pump will never shut off if I set above 55 PSI. As a short term fix could I change the differential to cycle say 45-55? I do not know what the tank rating is but with a new pump could I safely set tank pressure to 60-70?
You won't be able to find a pressure switch that will work with less than 20 PSI between on and off. yes you need a stronger pump. Going up hill 50 feet causes a loss of 22 PSI. So if you want 50 PSI at the house, the pump will need to deliver 72 PSI at the shore. Running a pressure switch at 62/82 will give you an average of 72 at the shore and 50 PSI at the house. However the pump will still be cycling between 62 and 82 while using water, which will cause the pressure at the house to vary between 40 and 60. Using a Cycle Stop Valve model CSV1A the pressure would be maintained at a strong and constant 50 PSI in the house instead of continually varying between 40 and 60. You will need a multistage booster pump like a Goulds 10GB07 or a multi-stage jet pump. Then you can have as much pressure at the house as you want, and the CSV will keep the pressure constant and strong so you won't even need soap in the shower. 
I assume the pressure switch with the pressure tank are at the bottom of the hill in a heated well house.
Many pressure tanks have a rating of 125 psi. One good popular one has 150 psi max. The lowest max pressure rating that I know of is the Value-well tank. I has a B rubber air stem and is rated for 90 psi max.
https://cyclestopvalves.com/products/electronic-pressure-switch-1 for temporary use?
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