Hot water heater question

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Redwood

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I debate whether they do have experts testing.
After all when they tested toilets a few years back didn't they top rank the Am. Std. Champion? Also giving high marks to the Kohler Wellworth...

I believe they were compared to the Toto Carusoe hardly an Apples to Apples test. Maybe a catagory for the lower line toilets should be the Cadet, Wellworth, Alto... Then a catagory for Champion, Cadet 3, Drake, Cimmeron would be a better test...

Then there is just the errors they make like when they talked about Toto's Pressure assisted model...:eek:

Thats what happens when you have an English Major write a consumer report on toilets....
Maybe they do need experts!

The Bradford White units I buy come with the brass 1/4 turn drain valve, dielectric heat trap nipples, & a Cash Acme T&P. All at a price that often is cheaper than the other brands where the Drain is plastic, and the dielectric heat trap nipples are not included. Seems like quality and value to me.

Oh by the way did anybody check to see who used what element? They are the same right? Low density, High density, sheathing... Its all the same right?
 

Cass

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Unfourtunately here there is only 1 game in the area for BW heaters and they are about $75-100.000 more that Rheem.
 

Redwood

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I quoted a 50 the other day here and checked with several other suppliers.
My local Bradford White dealer was $30-75 cheaper than the others.
 

dabiz7

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I am currently overhauling my water heater/wash room area and am in the market for a new water heater. Granted, i have had no problems with my "insert some 15 year old no-name water heater brand here" current unit, but I thinks it is about time, given our extremely hard water. I bet it is going to be heavy.

Anyway, the point of my post is, I have learned from this forum that the professionals seems to like Bradford White. I looked at the online info about Bradford White, seems like a good unit. A local Appliance dealer in my small town in SW Ohio actually would sell me (joe homeowner) a Bradford White water heater. ( I thought this was strange, because I thought only pro's could get them). Anyway, this dealer informed me that the out the door price for a 50 gal elelctric was $576, and installed was like $200 more. Since I was installing the unit myself, there would be no labor warranty and the water heater only came with a 6 yr warranty (same as the big box GE and Whirlpool). I politely declined.

My question, are people (meaning pro plumber customer in the US) really paying that kind of cash to replace a water heater? This really sounds like a lot of money for a unit that has the same features and similar warranty as the box stores brands. What am I missing?

If the Bradford White is going to last 20 yrs with no maintenance, then I can see the extra cost. But if I have to take my chances with the Bradford White unit the same as a GE or other brand, then why am I paying double the price?
 

Jadnashua

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Make sure you are comparing apple to apples...do they have the same wattage elements, brass drain, etc? I think you'll find a bigger difference in quality and operation on a gas unit verses an electric. The federal requirement changes for the burner still have some manufacturers scratching their heads how to make a reliable unit.

An interesting comparison would be the shipping weight, or bare weight if you can find it listed between similarlly sized units. One may have heavier gauge steel and more insulation. Check what the rated first hour draw capacity is and the quality of the insulation, indicated by temperature drop per hour. The less the unit cools off, the better the insulation and the less it will cost you in standby costs.
 

Redwood

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Are there several BW dealers in your area?

Yea, quite a few around here...
In fact in New Haven and West Haven within about a one mile radius there are 3 dealers that carry them.:D

I'm lucky with Toto too!
Within 25 miles I have 6 Platinum, 5 Gold, and 1 Silver Toto Dealers...

Life is good for me!
 

haste502

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Buy Bradford-White

After my previous water heater failed after 31 years, I had a 30-gallon A. O. Smith Promax gas water heater installed on October 30, 2007. On November 17, after 19 days, the pilot light went out. For the next seven months, the pilot light continued to fail and had to be relit.

The pilot failed sometimes every few days, sometimes every day, sometimes four times a day or more.

Eventually, I had to relight the pilot light every time we needed hot water. The plumber who installed the Promax returned five separate times to try and fix it, without success. An A. O. Smith Authorized Technician tried and also failed to fix it. To help find the problem, I installed a camera at the heater viewing window, and videotaped the pilot failing four times. No one looked at the tapes.

I began to think that this water heater must be pretty bad if an experienced plumber couldn’t fix it after five tries, and an A. O. Smith Authorized Technician, who works on nothing but A. O. Smith products, also could not get it to work.

Over seven months, I had to relight the pilot 63 times. At 10-15 minutes per relight (according to A. O. Smith instructions), this comes to a total of between 10-16 hours I spent lighting this heater. I can assure you that having to lay on your stomach at all hours of the day and night, in a cold and dark cellar, is not a pleasant job for an old man.

A. O. Smith, and the Factory Authorized Service Technician (who is paid by A. O. Smith) blame me for the Promax failure and refuse to refund my money. They say (without any tests or proof) that water vapor coming through the dirt floor in my cellar causes excess humidity which clogs the heater’s flame arrestor, disrupts the air flow to the heater, and puts out the pilot flame.

In 2003, the Government got into the water heater business. It required all water heater manufacturers to fit a ’flame arrestor’ into water heaters. A flame arrestor prevents the burner flame inside the heater from igniting flammable vapors outside of the heater. All heater manufacturers were allowed to come up with their own design of flame arrestor.

I learned from some plumbing websites that the real problem with the Promax may not be
my cellar, but the design of its flame arrestor. All incoming air for the heater’s operation must pass through the flame arrestor. The Promax uses a flame arrestor made from a Corderite ceramic disc. This ceramic disc is about the size of a saucer, so limits the air coming into the heater. In addition, the openings in the disc itself are small, further restricting air flow.

Aside from any design problem with the Promax, there are several reasons why A. O. Smith blaming me for the Promax failure is nonsense.

I was given no warning before purchasing the Promax, either from the plumber or A. O. Smith, that humidity was a limiting factor for the operation of this heater. No one told me that this heater needed a certain humidity range in order to work, much less what the humidity range was supposed to be. If I had known beforehand of a potential problem,
I would not have bought the Promax heater.

The excess humidity conclusion is not supported by statements in A. O. Smith’s own Instruction Manual (#184165-003) and Service Handbook (#TC-049RC). In these manuals, the word ‘humid’ is mentioned only once in 93 pages, and then only as an indication of tank leakage, not as a cause of pilot flame failure. These manuals are available on A. O. Smith’s website http://www.hotwater.com/lit.html.

Saying that my cellar is too humid, does not make it so. During December 2008-January 2009, I tested the relative humidity in my cellar using a Honeywell hygrometer. For these two months, the relative humidity was in a range from 51%-65%, staying mostly in the mid-50s.

A 30%-65% range for occupied areas is recommended by The American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE thermal comfort standard for Human Occupancy, Standard 62.1-2004). Their chart can be seen at http://www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/phys_agents/thermal_comfort.html.

This means that even though my family doesn’t actually ‘occupy’ our cellar, the relative humidity there is within ASHRAE standards. This normal reading is more significant in that during January 2009 we had four times as much snow (i.e. more moisture thus more humidity) than during the same period in 2008 when the Promax was installed. In other words, during January 2008, the humidity level in my cellar was probably even lower.

I also tested the wooden beams in my cellar with an Extech moisture meter. All the wood tested normal at 20% or less moisture. My home was built in 1924, so these normal readings are after 85 years of supposedly excess humidity.

These tests show that my cellar is not ‘too humid’ as A. O. Smith maintains and therefore is not likely to be the cause of their product’s failure.

My films of the Promax pilot light failure show that the pilot fails in several ways; it goes out by itself, or when the burner tries to go on, or when the burner is lit and then turns off. A. O. Smith’s lack of air explanation for the pilot failure seems suspect considering that the burner itself, which must require thousands of times the air the pilot does, had no trouble staying lit (once the pilot was lit) during a heating cycle.

The solution for pilot flame outages, A. O. Smith’s Legal Department says, is to clean (vacuum) their ceramic disc flame arrestor top and bottom routinely. To do this the burner must be removed, not a job the average customer can or would want to do.

Some plumbers state (see links below) that it is impossible to properly clean the bottom of this ceramic disc at all, as that part is nearly inaccessible. In any case, calling a plumber ‘routinely’ (every three months? every month?) is expensive and irritating, considering that your old heater may have lasted for decades without any attention at all.

http://weilhammerplumbing.com/products/

http://www.weilhammerplumbing.com/galleryi/

I believe that most people would consider it intolerable if a brand-new car failed to start 63 times in seven months. After experiencing similar inconvenience, not to mention cold water, I replaced the Promax with a Bradford-White heater (my choice and in spite of the plumber‘s objections) on May 24, 2008.

The Bradford-White has a stainless steel flame arrestor, the full diameter of the heater, and lets in plenty of air. The Bradford-White has now been installed for a much longer time than the Promax, and has worked perfectly in the exact same location, in the exact same ‘humid’ conditions.

I am out almost $1,000 for A. O. Smith’s measly 30-gallon gas water heater.

Do yourself a favor and stay away from A. O. Smith.
 
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