Hooking up water connection to fridge

[Coopns]

Just got a new fridge with water/ice maker. Had a line there, 1/8. So I hook up the line with a compression fitting and it works ok, but the water pressure is fair at best (rest of house is ok). Sears guy recommended getting a new T in basement and coming off that to the 1/8 line - getting a 1/2 to 1/8 valve. Hardware store buddy said try tapping a new hole with a (can't remember name but pic is below) and see if that hole is a shade bigger.

Bottom line is, I guess I need some more water out of that (I understand could be a pressure thing but the rest of house is fine).

Here are the pics.

Pic1
Pic2
Pic3
Pic4
Pic5

Let me know which option is best.

 

[Gary Swart]

That is call a saddle tee, and it is the worst possible way to connect an ice maker. Quick and easy? You bet it is, but is it a reliable way? Not a chance. The right way, and the way pros do it, is to solder a tee into the cold water supply line. From that you run a short copper nipple and then a ball valve and another piece of copper pipe. Then you adapt that to the small copper tubing which is connected with a compression fitting. Saddle tees eventually cause problems and should be avoided.

 

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[Doherty Plumbing]

That is call a saddle tee, and it is the worst possible way to connect an ice maker. Quick and easy? You bet it is, but is it a reliable way? Not a chance. The right way, and the way pros do it, is to solder a tee into the cold water supply line. From that you run a short copper nipple and then a ball valve and another piece of copper pipe. Then you adapt that to the small copper tubing which is connected with a compression fitting. Saddle tees eventually cause problems and should be avoided.

Do as Gary says if you're good at soldering.

If you aren't then you can try this method.

Use a 1/2 compression tee and have a little stub of copper out the branch of the tee (about 4-5" long). Then use a compression CR-19 valve that you'd use for a sink or toilet supply. This will have a 3/8th supply so you'll need to get down to your 1/8th pipe. To do this get yourself a short chunk of 3/8th pex, a compression nut and ferrel (PLASTIC FERREL!!!) and a John Guess 3/8th x 1/8th stab lock coupling.

Are you sure that's 1/8th copper??? Looks like either 1/4" or 3/8th to me...

 

[Kingsotall]

Wow, what's going on with all that patina¿

 

[Gary Slusser]

On the other hand... I've used saddle valves for 40 yrs and never had a failure. My Dad used them in his houses from back in the 1940s, I can't recall any problems except once in awhile they won't shut off totally. Dad bred tropical fish and used many of them for many years. His humidifier had one too, in two different houses until 2001 when I settled Mom's estate; he died in 1985.

So if it doesn't shut off, you shut off the water to the house and replace the valve or take it apart and clean it and reuse it. I've used them for customers' ROs and drinking water filters for 20 yrs and not had the first problem. And most were plastic. So, life is a series of choices...

 

[Ian Gills]

You bet life is full of choices Gary.

For my freezer line I use the braided stainless steel covered line and not the copper.

And I have one three-way quarter turn angle stop that shuts off my kitchen faucet and freezer line at the same time. It took me a long time to find that stop but Watts makes one. I like efficient plumbing you see.

Less joints, less chance of a problem. Let the pipe do the talking.