Honeywell R7284U install questions

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Thetruck454

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System is a oil fired Vega B10-4 boiler for hydronic heat with a separate zone for a hot water super store. I replaced my old R7185u with a R7284U. The old R7184 had the 15sec Valve on delay enabled, and the post purge was set to 4minutes.

I wanted to double check my settings and ask some questions since I'm just you're average dangerous homeowner haha.

For the new R7284 I set the following:
Valve on delay: 15sec. Do I need the delay this long if the pump pressure goes right to 150psi almost instantaneously (I put a pressure gauge off the pump). I also have a tiger loop so fuel should be right there all the time correct?
Ignition Trial: 15sec. It was the default setting, but not sure what exactly it's referring to.
Burner off delay: 2 min. I was told for a direct vent (not powered) out the side of the house that 4 minutes was too much. This true?
TT configured on: No. Putting it to yes made the boiler fire up and run non stop.
Spark in on Delay: Yes. This was the default 3. Does this mean the ignitor is firing for the first 15 seconds the fuel valve is closed?
Spark during run: No. I'm assuming this means the ignitor turns off after x seconds then the flame sustains itself?

Back story I'm having a heck of a time with my boiler tripping out. I have had multiple people from multiple companies come look at it with minimal luck aside from cleaning it and getting it going again. I can usually limp it along when while waiting to make the service call by wedging the intake damper wide open and turning down the airflow setting on the blower inlet from 1.00 to 0.85. Every time the service it they naturally close the intake damper so it can work how it's supposed to, but they consistently put the air flow setting back to 1.00. The boiler will then work a random amount of time from 1 month to 8 months before it's an issue again. The last tech was a younger guy and suggested I install the R7284 so the next time a tech comes it might give them some clues. About the only other thing that's been changed is one of the previous techs changed out the oil nozzle from a .65x70A to a .65x85B. He said while the .65x85B wasn't what the manual said, he felt it ran better?
Sorry for the long winded post, thanks in advance for the help.
 

Fitter30

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The nozzle s the 70 and 85 is the degree of spray patter and the angle of spray has to fit the burner chamber. Has a one used a draft guage, looked at the chimney height and burner analyzer. These service people do they come from a hvac service company or from the oil supplier? A service person recommendation from a oil company is who I'd recommend that is all they see as for as burners.
 

Thetruck454

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The nozzle s the 70 and 85 is the degree of spray patter and the angle of spray has to fit the burner chamber. Has a one used a draft guage, looked at the chimney height and burner analyzer. These service people do they come from a hvac service company or from the oil supplier? A service person recommendation from a oil company is who I'd recommend that is all they see as for as burners.


It's been both. The past two techs were from an oil company that has inhouse techs
 

Fitter30

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A problem that is every once in a while is hard to find. Has anyone put a stick down into the tank to check for water? They a make a paste take is put on the end of a stick will show if there is water in the tank. Maybe a fuel conditioner. Check electrical connections from burner to panel. Hows the tank filter look when they change it? What do they find when the burner fails and it runs for a while?
 

Thetruck454

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A problem that is every once in a while is hard to find. Has anyone put a stick down into the tank to check for water? They a make a paste take is put on the end of a stick will show if there is water in the tank. Maybe a fuel conditioner. Check electrical connections from burner to panel. Hows the tank filter look when they change it? What do they find when the burner fails and it runs for a while?


I've added conditioner to the tank several times. but no real gain. I'll look into something to test for water. Unfortunately they come over when my wife is home and I'm at work so I don't get to look at the filter element. They usually say the nozzle is carboned up.
 

Fitter30

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I've added conditioner to the tank several times. but no real gain. I'll look into something to test for water. Unfortunately they come over when my wife is home and I'm at work so I don't get to look at the filter element. They usually say the nozzle is carboned up.
Incomplete combustion is probably the cause for the soot. Need a company that uses a combustion analyzer. Call the different oil company see if they have have a serviceman with a analzer. Take few pics of the boiler and flue. Water doesn't cause soot.
 
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