Home Depot HDX 1/2" diameter garden hose won't fit on outdoor faucet

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Bill Nguyen

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Hi,

I just moved into this house with this outdoor faucet. I've attached pictures of it. When I tried to attach a garden hose to it, it doesn't fit right. It'll screw on but still leaks and there's a gap on the black collar of the hose. Sorry for my lack of correct terminology. Thanks in advance.
 

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Reach4

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So is the problem with the hose or the spigot? You could test the hose on a neighbor's spigot.

A thread chaser could clean up the threads, but I think I would be inclined to change out the spigot. You have unusually good access to hold the pipe at the hex head, as you unscrew the spigot/hose bib.
 

Terry

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There is a lot of paint on those threads. The seal happens with the rubber seal on the end of the hose. Not the threads.
If you can't remove the paint, perhaps replace it. That hosebib is threading onto a standard 1/2" IP thread.
 

Bill Nguyen

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So is the problem with the hose or the spigot? You could test the hose on a neighbor's spigot.

A thread chaser could clean up the threads, but I think I would be inclined to change out the spigot. You have unusually good access to hold the pipe at the hex head, as you unscrew the spigot/hose bib.

The hose is brand new so I doubt it but it is a cheap hose. I've attached a picture of what part I was referring to. Pardon my layman terms haha. So I tightened this onto the faucet\spigot male thread (?). It's on tight but the hose can be moved in and out slightly.

Are you saying I can just replace the entire faucet and spigot by unscrewing it. In the 2nd picture, is this where I would unscrew it?

Last, so this is a standard male thread on the faucet? Thanks
 

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Bill Nguyen

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There is a lot of paint on those threads. The seal happens with the rubber seal on the end of the hose. Not the threads.
If you can't remove the paint, perhaps replace it. That hosebib is threading onto a standard 1/2" IP thread.

Is it safe to say that the pictured thread is a standard thread? I was looking at other posts and some mentioned it was "vacuum breaker" or "backflow preventer".

The new hose I purchased has a rubber gasket\O ring on it. Amy suggestions on removing the paint from the threads? Paint thinner?

Thanks
 

Reach4

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Safe to bet they are standard threads. I presume that pipe is metal, and not plastic, right?

When you unscrew, stop the water inside. Release the pressure by opening the faucet. Use a big wrench, and not a little wrench. Don't apply the torque against the pipe, but rather between two wrenches or maybe use a big locking pliers on the faucet, and a big wrench on the hex where the arrow is.

hosebib-flower.jpg
 
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Bill Nguyen

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Safe to bet they are standard threads. I presume that pipe is metal, and not plastic, right?

When you unscrew, stop the water inside. Release the pressure by opening the faucet. Use a big wrench, and not a little wrench. Don't apply the torque against the pipe, but rather between two wrenches or maybe use a big locking pliers on the faucet, and a big wrench on the hex where the arrow is.

Yup, the pipe is definitely not plastic. Thank you so much
 

Jadnashua

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When you make a change, the new faucet should have a vacuum breaker built-in to meet the anti-siphon requirements. Attaching it is done in the same way. Living in LA, you wouldn't need a frost-free version.

Unlike the hose connection, you WILL require either some PTFE tape or pipe dope to be applied to the threads where the new valve screws onto the pipe coming out of the wall, or it will leak. Different types of threads require different sealing.

A wire brush would probably clean the paint off if you wanted to try that. If the end of the valve isn't smooth, the washer in the hose may have trouble sealing against it.
 

Bill Nguyen

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When you make a change, the new faucet should have a vacuum breaker built-in to meet the anti-siphon requirements. Attaching it is done in the same way. Living in LA, you wouldn't need a frost-free version.

Unlike the hose connection, you WILL require either some PTFE tape or pipe dope to be applied to the threads where the new valve screws onto the pipe coming out of the wall, or it will leak. Different types of threads require different sealing.

A wire brush would probably clean the paint off if you wanted to try that. If the end of the valve isn't smooth, the washer in the hose may have trouble sealing against it.


Thank you so much! I went at it with a wire brush and reattached the old hose. I replaced the old fittings on the old hose and it worked like a charm. The new crappy HDX hose still had leaks due to the plastic collar. I will be returning that to HD.

Thank you all for you quick replies.

Last question, will I need to add a vacuum breaker to this outdoor faucet?
 

Terry

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Last question, will I need to add a vacuum breaker to this outdoor faucet?

On my repairs I install and replace with the vacuum breaker. There are plenty of homes that are done like yours from the earlier years though. As we replace them, we update them.
There is no easy way to add a breaker on your faucet. Replacement is the way you would do it.
 

Sylvan

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That faucet looks like its jacked to me. The packing nut appears to be missing or unthreaded.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Woodfor...ngle-Check-Vacuum-Breaker-24P1-2-PC/206937396

This is the style of valve with built in vacuum breaker you would want to replace it with.. maybe a metal handle instead of the plastic, but similar.

The Packing glade is fine. If it does leak it can removed and replaced with Graphite or teflon packing (round ) NOT teflon tape

I rebuild hundreds of Valves
 

Sylvan

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You are correct it is known as a packing gland or stuffing box not a "glande"

Im glad you pay attention :)
 
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