Helplease....Sprinkler pump and pressure tank

[terremoto]

I have a shallow well that is used only for the sprinkler system. I had somebody install a pump, pressure tank and lines about 2 years ago. Just a few days ago the pump stopped working (Sta Rite Pentair 1 hp). I decided to change the pump myself and that is where all of the troubles began.
First of all I confess my total ignorance but I wanted to try and learn.
This time I decided to install a check valve on the line that comes out of the well. The new pump is a 1 1/2 hp generic pump from Home Depot that does not have a pressure switch, so I did install a new one 30-50 PSI on the line between the pump and the pressure tank (bladder tank) along with a pressure gauge.
This set up is connected to a control box for the sprinkler. I made sure the switch is wired correctly and I do not see any lines leaking. These are the issues that I am facing:
As soon as I plug the pump it will start running, pressure gauge goes up slowly to 40 PSI and zone 1 of my sprinklers will go off even if control box is not connected. I can not stop it.
The second problem that I have is that as soon as I unplug the pump, pressure gauge shows a rapid loss of pressure back to zero.
Please help me solve this

 

[Valveman]

The sprinkler controller should not be connected to the pump. The sprinkler controller opens and closes the sprinklers, the pressure switch turns the pump on and off as needed. Sprinkler valves are normally closed, so the sprinkler controller must be connected to make the sprinklers open, or you have to manually open the vent on top of the sprinkler valve.

If you don't see any leaks, then the pressure is dropping to zero because your check valve is not holding. Don't use a flapper type check. You need a spring loaded poppet style check valve.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[terremoto]

The sprinkler controller should not be connected to the pump. The sprinkler controller opens and closes the sprinklers, the pressure switch turns the pump on and off as needed. Sprinkler valves are normally closed, so the sprinkler controller must be connected to make the sprinklers open, or you have to manually open the vent on top of the sprinkler valve.

If you don't see any leaks, then the pressure is dropping to zero because your check valve is not holding. Don't use a flapper type check. You need a spring loaded poppet style check valve.

Sorry, I did explain myself well. The sprinkler control box is not connected to the pump. It is connected directly to the sprinkler valves. It was working fine with the previous pump. I do have a spring loaded valve. It is possible the valve is not good however I did not have a check valve with the previous set up either and it was holding pressure.

 

[Valveman]

A system will not hold pressure without a check valve. The check is either bad or you have a leak. A pump with a pressure switch has nothing to do with the sprinkler controller opening the sprinklers. There must be a bad connection or a bad solenoid valve if the sprinklers won't stay up. If you give 24 volts to those valves, they will open and sprinkle.

 

[terremoto]

A system will not hold pressure without a check valve. The check is either bad or you have a leak. A pump with a pressure switch has nothing to do with the sprinkler controller opening the sprinklers. There must be a bad connection or a bad solenoid valve if the sprinklers won't stay up. If you give 24 volts to those valves, they will open and sprinkle.

I understand what you are saying but that is what is happening. Zone 1 of my sprinklers will go off as soon as I plug the pump and this is happening even after unplugging the control box for the sprinklers. Also when I connect the sprinkler control box to see if I can stop zone 1 by starting zone 2, zone 2 will barely sprinkle because zone 1 does not stop and the system does not have enough pressure to irrigate 2 zones at the same time.

 

[Valveman]

Unplugging the sprinkler controller should make the sprinklers close down. If zone 1 will not close, either there is something stuck in it or the diaphragm is torn.

 

[Greenmonster123]

Sounds like the zone 1 valve is stuck. Likely a piece of debris is stuck in there. Take it apart and clean it. Also, how did your well hold a prime before if there was no check valve? I think we are missing some info here.

 

[terremoto]

The sprinkler controller should not be connected to the pump. The sprinkler controller opens and closes the sprinklers, the pressure switch turns the pump on and off as needed. Sprinkler valves are normally closed, so the sprinkler controller must be connected to make the sprinklers open, or you have to manually open the vent on top of the sprinkler valve.

If you don't see any leaks, then the pressure is dropping to zero because your check valve is not holding. Don't use a flapper type check. You need a spring loaded poppet style check valve.

I played with the sprinkler heads and added air to the pressure tank and now the system is holding pressure. I checked all of the zones and water is coming fine. The issue that I have now is that when I turn off the sprinkler , the pump keeps running and pressure does not rise beyond 35 PSI. I have a 30-50 PSI switch so pressure does not rise high enough to turn pump off.

 

[Valveman]

Is the new pump designed to build 50+ PSI? If it is then you either have a suction leak or the jet nozzle is clogged.