Helping identifying & capping bathroom supply pipes

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KyleNC

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Hi all,

I was hoping someone could help me identify the pipe used to supply a toilet here in NC, likely installed 1957 (pic attached). Measurements, as best as I can determine:
  • OD is between 5/8" and 6/8" (around 11/16" perhaps?)
  • ID appears to be slightly under 1/2".
From googling, it looks like it may be a steel pipe with an OD of .675? Does this seem logical/accurate to you all?

I also need to figure out how to temporarily cap this pipe. I (stupidly) cut the pipe beyond the threads, as I was assuming it was a standard copper pipe that I could pop a 1/2" sharkbite on, but of course, that doesn't seem an option.

I'll also need to figure out the simplest way to temporarily cap some other pipes of this size, assuming I can just access the threads one those. I may even be able to find threads on this particular line further "upstream" if needed.

Any and all suggestions are welcome - I'm in a bit of a bind. Thank you!
 

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Reach4

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OD is between 5/8" and 6/8" (around 11/16" perhaps?)
3/8 IPS (iron pipe size) is 0.675 inches OD.
Schedule 40 IPS is 0.493 ID.

How much is sticking up?

Are you wanting to stop pressurized water? I presume so.

My thinking is this will be easier to accomplish in the crawl space. But this may be doable above the floor.
 
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KyleNC

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3/8 IPS (iron pipe size) is 0.675 inches OD.
Schedule 40 IPS is 0.493.

How much is sticking up?

Are you wanting to stop pressurized water? I presume so.

Yep. I have the house water shut off, but it still trickles a little - I have the outside hose open for now to avoid any leakage inside. I do also have a subcontractor coming Weds that will require the water to be turned on for a few hours, so I'm feeling a bit squeezed.

The stub comes up maybe 4-6" inches from the floor, and I can access all of it if needed. I'll eventually be getting rid of this stub entirely, FWIW.

If it is in fact a 3/8 IPS, would something like this be the right size cap for such a .675" OD IPS threaded pipe? (Obviously too late to use that for this specific stub, but would be good to know for the others I still need to do.)
 

Fitter30

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1/2" pipe . 84 ,,21/25 has to be 1/2" steel pipe size. Probably screwed into 90*( ell).Big box and hardware carry a compression coupling with nipple and cap.
 
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KyleNC

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1/2" pipe . 84 ,,21/25 has to be 1/2" steel pipe size. Probably screwed into 90*( ell).

Hmm, what makes you say that?

My rough measurement of between 5/8-6/8" (.625-.750") seems more consistent with the .675" OD of a 3/8 IPS, no?
 

Reach4

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https://www.pennusa.com/products/schedule_40.php has the sizes of schedule 40 pipe.

If it is in fact a 3/8 IPS, would something like this be the right size cap for such a .675" OD IPS threaded pipe?
Right size. Normally you would use galvanized, or brass, or even possibly plastic. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-848-003C-3-8-CPVC-Schedule-80-Cap-FIPT

If it is temporary, I am thinking two ways: one would be to find some plastic pipe with about the right ID, and put it over your pipe with 3 worm gear clamps. That would maybe be 5/8 pex -- a fairly rare size. https://www.pexuniverse.com/pex-tubing-technical-specs. There may some other suitable tubing, or maybe an old garden hose would happen to be close enough.

The other way is to turn that pipe CCW, and try to unscrew it from the fitting below (probably elbow). Then screw a capped nipple thru the hole in the floor, and try to get it into that nipple. Probably doable. If it doesn't work, somebody would have to go to the crawl space to deal with it.

A third possibility is to get somebody to cut a thread onto that pipe with a 3/8 NPT die. Then it could accept a cap, such as you linked to.


Edit: one more idea? I expect a welder could make short work of sealing that up. Know anybody who welds?
 
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KyleNC

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https://www.pennusa.com/products/schedule_40.php has the sizes of schedule 40 pipe.


Right size. Normally you would use galvanized, or brass, or even possibly plastic. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-848-003C-3-8-CPVC-Schedule-80-Cap-FIPT

If it is temporary, I am thinking two ways: one would be to find some plastic pipe with about the right ID, and put it over your pipe with 3 worm gear clamps. That would maybe be 5/8 pex -- a fairly rare size. https://www.pexuniverse.com/pex-tubing-technical-specs. There may some other suitable tubing, or maybe an old garden hose would happen to be close enough.

The other way is to turn that pipe CCW, and try to unscrew it from the fitting below (probably elbow). Then screw a capped nipple thru the hole int the floor, and try to get it into that nipple. Probably doable. If it doesn't work, somebody would have to go to the crawl space to deal with it.

A third possibility is to get somebody to cut a thread onto that pipe with a 3/8 NPT die. Then it could accept a cap, such as you linked to.


Edit: one more idea? I expect a welder could make short work of sealing that up. Know anybody who welds?

Ahh, thank you! I do have access to the elbow behind the wall, so it sounds like my best bet might be trying that first. I appreciate all of the suggestions, though.
 

Reach4

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Ahh, thank you! I do have access to the elbow behind the wall, so it sounds like my best bet might be trying that first. I appreciate all of the suggestions, though.
I had a stop valve on a 3/8 NPT nipple, and I did not have access to the elbow. I turned the stop valve CCW, not knowing which end of the nipple would give way. The connection in the wall gave. I then got a new stop valve, and a brass 3/8 nipple. I applied PTFE tape, and screwed the nipple the valve. I then put the other end of the nipple through the hole in the wall, and turned. It went in, I turned the valve, and tightened up both ends. The valves both had flats that made them turnable with the biggest wrench I could fit into the confined area. A pipe wrench would be the normal tool to turn a pipe like yours. I have had better luck with big curved-jaw locking pliers.
milwaukee-locking-pliers-2.jpg


I did eventually remove that brass nipple as part of my running some PEX thru the walls to lavatory and tub, but the brass nipple and new valve did not leak.

Brass nipples don't rust but new galvanized does. Galvanized is cheaper, and some rust at that point would not bother you.
 
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Tuttles Revenge

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Hmm, what makes you say that?

From my experience its usually vast amounts of experience..

And from my vast amount of experience. You do NOT want to try to remove the elbow and cap the pipe. You will want to remove the 1/2" IPS nipple that you cut off from the elbow and plug that. Pipe threads tend to degrade because they're so thin whereas the fitting will have perfect threads even if some of the old nipple thread are left behind.. easier to chase those out than mess with pipe ends.
 

KyleNC

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From my experience its usually vast amounts of experience..

And from my vast amount of experience. You do NOT want to try to remove the elbow and cap the pipe. You will want to remove the 1/2" IPS nipple that you cut off from the elbow and plug that. Pipe threads tend to degrade because they're so thin whereas the fitting will have perfect threads even if some of the old nipple thread are left behind.. easier to chase those out than mess with pipe ends.

Good to know, thanks! This is what I ended up doing, and it worked fine. Thanks again to everyone for the help.

I've since gathered that 1/2" is much more commonly used, which I assume was the reasoning there. However, turns out I've got 3/8" in this house, for whatever reason. Here's a pic of the old 3/8 between a new 1/2 and 3/8 on its left and right, respectively - figured I'd add that info to the thread for anyone searching in that future!
 

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Reach4

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I've since gathered that 1/2" is much more commonly used, which I assume was the reasoning there. However, turns out I've got 3/8" in this house, for whatever reason. Here's a pic of the old 3/8 between a new 1/2 and 3/8 on its left and right, respectively - figured I'd add that info to the thread for anyone searching in that future!
3/8 is plenty for toilets and lavatories.
 

Tuttles Revenge

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Kohler still sells 3/8" threaded angle stops and chromed brass nipples. I probably have a handful of 1/2 SWT x 3/8 IPS drop ear 90's laying around.. probably from the early 60's when steel was being phased out.
 
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