Help with water system design

[Greenlight]

I am building a home on the Oregon coast, and I'm looking for ideas on how I should build my water system. I recently had a well drilled. The well is 200' deep, and produces about 25 gallons/ minute. The elevation gain from the well to the house site is about 30', and we are building a 2 story house with 4 bedrooms and 3.5 baths. I will be building a shop near the well location and would like to have water. The distance from the well to the house is about 1000'. I have 2 questions;

1. What are my options for water system design? I realize this not a simple question, and there could be many possibilities and variables. I'm planning to build a pump house near the well head. I'm looking for suggestions on location of pressure tank, possibility of holding tank/sistern or multiple tanks, booster pump? Basically what's going to be my best bet for getting water from point A (well) to point B (house)?

2. I have an excavation contractor on site now, and we are working on getting power and water up the hill. What size pipe should we run from the well/pump house location to the house? I've had suggestions from 1" to 1.5". This is the most pressing question at the moment because I need to purchase 1000' of water pipe so we can get it in the ditch soon. Is the pipe size dependent on how I design the system?

I'm hoping you guys can offer advice and start a conversation that can offer suggestions and thing s to consider. Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Reach4]

If the power is coming from the house, there is a choice of whether the pressure switch and pressure tank are at the house, or if they are at the well house.

If those are at the house, pressure drop on the way to the house will be less significant. If they are at the well house, you will want big pipe so that the pressure at the house does not change a lot with use. You may want to have an electrical subpanel at the well house.

http://www.pressure-drop.com/Online-Calculator/ will let you compute pressure drops. 10 gpm is usually a good number to use for one house. I will let you run numbers. That lets you include elbows and such with separate calculations, or just add a percent (10%?) to the length you calculate with.

SIDR poly pipe is probably a good choice for the path. Do take thermal effects into account, which primarily means, I think, snake the pipe path in the trench rather than pulling it tight. SIDR ID is larger than the nominal diameter.

Consider if you want a yard hydrant or two on the path. Consider outlets.

1 inch would be smaller than I would prefer if the pressure tank aand switch are in the well house. There is also a choice of 1.25, so that is the smallest I would choose. I am not a pro.

 

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[Greenlight]

If the power is coming from the house, there is a choice of whether the pressure switch and pressure tank are at the house, or if they are at the well house.

If those are at the house, pressure drop on the way to the house will be less significant. If they are at the well house, you will want big pipe so that the pressure at the house does not change a lot with use. You may want to have an electrical subpanel at the well house.

http://www.pressure-drop.com/Online-Calculator/ will let you compute pressure drops. 10 gpm is usually a good number to use for one house. I will let you run numbers. That lets you include elbows and such with separate calculations, or just add a percent (10%?) to the length you calculate with.

SIDR poly pipe is probably a good choice for the path. Do take thermal effects into account, which primarily means, I think, snake the pipe path in the trench rather than pulling it tight. SIDR ID is larger than the nominal diameter.

Consider if you want a yard hydrant or two on the path. Consider outlets.

1 inch would be smaller than I would prefer if the pressure tank aand switch are in the well house. There is also a choice of 1.25, so that is the smallest I would choose. I am not a pro.

Thank you for the response. I will have electrical service at the well location and at the house location. Each will be fed via 400 amp service off of their own transformer.

I like the idea of using SIDR. I've been looking into cost for it, and it seems to be readily available in 500' rolls. I would also like to have a hydrant along the run.

 

[Valveman]

If the well makes 25 GPM there is no reason to use a cistern and booster pump, the well pump can supply everything you need. With a two story house I would use a 50/70 pressure switch with a CSV delivering a constant 50 PSI after the pump is started. Even though the well is 200' deep the pump is only lifting from the water level. If the water level is say 180' and you really want 25 GPM, you will need a 3HP, 25 GPM size pump. But if the water level is higher and doesn't pull down and/or you don't need 25 GPM, a smaller pump would work. A house that size only needs about 10 GPM, and if the water level is only 100', all it would take is a 3/4HP, 10 GPM size pump.

The 3/4HP with 50/70 switch would only need a 10 gallon size pressure tank with the PK1A kit. A 3HP could use the same CSV1A that comes in the PK1A kit, but would need at least a 20 gallon size tank, 44 gallon would be better, and the CSV1A would need to be ordered with a 3 GPM bypass to keep the 3HP motor cool.