Help with Toto Vespin II and leak at floor...

[Bruce Johnson]

I have a Toto vespin II. It leaks around the skirt.

It seems that toto uses a unique seal kit.

I had a plumber out here a while back and he said the floor was "crooked" and we needed to get it fixed.
This was relayed to me via my daughter. I am not sure of what all needs to be done. House is only about 5 years old,
He said we needed a "thick gasket" for the seal.

I want to investigate, but I cannot leave the toilet in a non usable state.

It seems there are differnt offset for this bracket, and I am not sure what model of the seal I need.

First, how can I tell what offset version I need?
Also, I am not finding any options for a thick ir normal seal.

Can I remove the toilet and look to see what needs to be done and then use the same seal kit? Or is it once used, you have to replace it with a new part? If so, I want to have the correct part, but how can I tell what item I actually need before hand?

Are there any tricks I need to be aware of with this setup? Sound like it is not just a simple was ring...

 

[Breplum]

There are enough elements involved to say that you should hire a plumber who has experience with Toto skirted WCs, which should not be hard.
Likely the Unifit assembly does not need to be replaced at all. I've never had to replace one ever.
But, the Unifit assembly may need to be reset.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

I have a Toto vespin II. It leaks around the skirt.

I have a Vespin II that does not leak.

I had a plumber out here a while back and he said the floor was "crooked" and we needed to get it fixed.
This was relayed to me via my daughter. I am not sure of what all needs to be done. House is only about 5 years old,
He said we needed a "thick gasket" for the seal.

I want to investigate, but I cannot leave the toilet in a non usable state.

It seems there are differnt offset for this bracket, and I am not sure what model of the seal I need.

First, how can I tell what offset version I need?
Also, I am not finding any options for a thick ir normal seal.

Can I remove the toilet and look to see what needs to be done and then use the same seal kit? Or is it once used, you have to replace it with a new part? If so, I want to have the correct part, but how can I tell what item I actually need before hand?

Lifting the toilet and replacing, is easier IMO with a Unifit toilet is easier than with a normal type setup. It is heavy, and you have to lift about an inch or so before moving non-vertically. You will need to disconnect the supply line, remove water to make the thing lighter, pull the screws through the side panels, and lift. The caulking around the edge is structural with a toilet that uses Unifit. While the toilet is held near the wall, it's the caulk that keeps the front side from moving side to side. Use acrylic caulk such as Polyseamseal.

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/leaking-toto-unifit.58381/
If I read correctly, the cause may just be the wax was not sufficient. I packed my Unifit with wax shaped to match the job, rather than just placing a ring and tightening. If your flange is very tilted, it could mess things up. In that case, I might consider a stack of stainless steel washers to shim things to level.

I would mark the position with tape or marker on the floor before lifting. You have to get the thing properly positioned before lowering. Then to put the toilet back temporarily, you could just set the toilet back down, but be careful to not generate side forces until things are fully reinstalled. After you see what is going on and go to the store, you can fix things, put the screws in place, and put the caulk into place. Take it easy until the caulk sets.

My suggestion is to use unifit as a search term in the search box above. You will see more photos and find more discussion.



https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/leaking-toto-unifit.58381/

 

[Terry]

If the closet flange is lower than the finished flooring, then either a thick wax or two rings stacked.
We ran into one install where the handyman left out the unifit altogether. What a mess that was.

 

[Jadnashua]

Once you remove the two bolts on the toilet, it will just lift straight up off of that black rubber seal at the back of the Unifit adapter. The rear of the adapter is held in place with those four screws into the floor...the bolts sticking up back there are how the toilet is anchored to the adapter, and the front of the adapter is anchored to the toilet flange. As long as the toilet fits, the existing adapter should be fine. If it sits way away from the wall, you could substitute a different adapter (normally, there's a designed 3/4" gap between the back of the toilet and the wall, and the adapters come in 10, 12, and 14" with 12" being the most common, the others are optional and you must buy them separately).

If the leak is from around the front of the adapter, it's likely because the flange is recessed, and when attaching the adapter, it did not compress the wax and left a gap.

While unusual, if the black rubber gasket is not seated properly, it could leak from there, but that's usually not catastrophic once you get it properly back in place. The floor would have to be really off kilter for the toilet to not seal to the Unifit adapter unless that gasket for some reason got torn.