I was looking for some advice. My experience level is good DIYer who can do a satisfactory sweat job. I am renovating an alcove tub/shower and installing a Grohe shower arm/head, new valve/trim, and tub spout.
I am using Grohflex universal rough in box that came with the valve and trim. The box has (4) 1/2" NPT-MIP female threaded ports with "no sweat option." The fit on the sides of the valve is tight so I cant run any straight pipe then 90 down, I have to run a 90 immediately after the vale housing. So I think I have 3 options.
1. Use copper 1/2" male adapter with nipple and then sweat a copper 90. I am worried that if I tighten the adapter first using tape and dope then sweat the copper 90 I will damage the tape and dope and cause a possible leak in the threads. But if I sweat the 90 first onto the male adapter then how do I make sure the alignment of the 90 will be correct when I tighten down the male adapter?
2. Use a brass 90 degree dogear. But same situation above with damaging the seal of the threads if I sweat after tightening them.
3. Use either the copper adapter or brass dogear and then sweat the threaded portion. I have heard you can do this, but is that true? Can you sweat a threaded connection?
Any thoughts on the above questions? Or how would you plumb the valve? I hate to ask this question, but should I just use shark bites and forget the sweating.
Also the tub spout that comes with this unit has a 3/4" NPT-FIP screw on fitting even though the valve is 1/2". Where should I make the 1/2 to 3/4 reduction? Right after the valve or close to the backer board? I have to leave 1/2"-11/16" of threaded 3/4" pipe exposed passed the finished exterior.
Thanks and hope this is not too confusing.
I am using Grohflex universal rough in box that came with the valve and trim. The box has (4) 1/2" NPT-MIP female threaded ports with "no sweat option." The fit on the sides of the valve is tight so I cant run any straight pipe then 90 down, I have to run a 90 immediately after the vale housing. So I think I have 3 options.
1. Use copper 1/2" male adapter with nipple and then sweat a copper 90. I am worried that if I tighten the adapter first using tape and dope then sweat the copper 90 I will damage the tape and dope and cause a possible leak in the threads. But if I sweat the 90 first onto the male adapter then how do I make sure the alignment of the 90 will be correct when I tighten down the male adapter?
2. Use a brass 90 degree dogear. But same situation above with damaging the seal of the threads if I sweat after tightening them.
3. Use either the copper adapter or brass dogear and then sweat the threaded portion. I have heard you can do this, but is that true? Can you sweat a threaded connection?
Any thoughts on the above questions? Or how would you plumb the valve? I hate to ask this question, but should I just use shark bites and forget the sweating.
Also the tub spout that comes with this unit has a 3/4" NPT-FIP screw on fitting even though the valve is 1/2". Where should I make the 1/2 to 3/4 reduction? Right after the valve or close to the backer board? I have to leave 1/2"-11/16" of threaded 3/4" pipe exposed passed the finished exterior.
Thanks and hope this is not too confusing.