Help with Copper Pipe Support

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Theodore

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Hi,
So, as I'm refininshing my basement, I'm removing the various ways that the existing hydronic heat pipe (1.25" diameter copper) is supported along my basement ceiling (steel cable, old electrical wire supported on a nail, bent coat hangers, etc) and replacing them with plastic J-hooks. This is trivial when the pipe runs perpendicular to the floor joists. But when the pipe runs parallel to the floor joists, the pipe is unfortunately located righ under the middle of the joist (a 3x8 timber), such that a J-hook nailed to either side of the joist cannot reach the pipe. What should I be using (that's hopefully available at a big-box store, hopefully made of something that won't cause corrosion by galvanic action, and hopefully semi-attractive because it _will_ be partially visible)?
Thanks
Theodore.
 

Jadnashua

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Maybe the easiest thing would be to nail/screw a cross brace between the joists and attach a clamp to it to hold the pipe. Because the pipe used for hydronic heating tends to change temperature on a regular basis, and may have a fairly big temperature swing, the pipe will expand and contract more than it might otherwise...you want to use a clamp that will allow the pipe to move without binding, otherwise, it might just build up spring tension, and then jump when it overcomes the friction, creating some annoying sounds.
 

Theodore

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Maybe the easiest thing would be to nail/screw a cross brace between the joists and attach a clamp to it to hold the pipe... .
Understood, but problem is that the pipe is not between joists... it's right under one joist. So a cross brace can't help.
 

Dj2

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There are all kinds of pipe hangers. My all purpose pipe hanger is plumber strapping, and it does come in copper, for copper pipes. You simply cut as much length as you need and attach it with 2 wood screws.
It comes in a 10' (and longer) roll.
 

Cacher_Chick

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I stopped using plastic j-hooks as they have a tendency to make noise when the piping expands and contracts. For your applcation, we would normally install additional wood blocking or uni-strut between the framing members and then drop down copper split clamps or clevis hangars off threaded rod.
 
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