Help with building media filtration

[oxjam]

I am need of knowing what type of media and system I need to build I just got my test results back for $199 from wholesale water online and very happy with their help and results. Test is for 255 contaminants. See attachments.

My first posts and softener details.
"I just bought a possible gac filter off of craigslist for $100. It is a 2005 model only used for 4 years. It has a Fleck 2510 part #40278 control head with a 948 pentair tank 9in x 48in and I determined it holds 1.0 cu ft of media. It has inlet and outlet with a back wash only. also numbers on control head sticker 231802-005001-0002C00

1. What is the best option for my system? What should I build out of what I have?

Water Softener: It is an Ecowater system softner ESD 2502r39 i tore apart and cleaned all valves and screens seems to be working. It was installed I believe in 1997 or 99"


2. So what media must I use and what should I do to clean water up. Thanks I need your expertise guys... this site is great so far has been very helpful.

Water test below
Do I ned or should I use a chlorine back was setup?
Attached Files:

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• Water test 1848 Eastern.zip
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[oxjam]

Here is Better file.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

I am not a pro, and others may have better ideas.

Looks like very nice water. I would put 1 or 2 Big Blue 20*4.5 inch filter housings with polypropylene cartridge(s) to handle any sediment. If you have a lot of sediment you could use that filter you have as a backwashing filter with maybe sand media or keep the charcoal to catch sediment. Since you did not mention sediment, it is probably well within the abilities of the non-backwashing filter. A backwashing filter for you is probably overkill.. but you already have it.... I see no additional need other than a softener to handle your 20.5 grains (350 mg/liter) of hardness. You only have 0.1 ppm of iron. You also have 0.15 ppm of manganese. That is a bit high. The softener can deal with that too.

Put your numbers into this: http://www.qualitywaterassociates.com/sizing.php

I don't see a reason to chlorinate, but I would sanitize your well and plumbing system. http://www.moravecwaterwells.com/disin_test.htm is my favorite method. It is not the simplest, but it makes very good sense to me. I would get some high-range chlorine test paper to see if you have the right value. I would also consider some narrow range pH paper to see if you have the water acidic enough to make the chlorine work best.

How deep is your well?

 

[ditttohead]

I would remove the GAC from your tank and replace it with a Ferrilite media which is a Clinoptilolite media coated and impregnated with Manganese Dioxide. This should remove the manganese and Iron and any sediment down to the 3 micron range. If you go this route, be sure to adjust the backwash flow control on the 2510 to match the backwash rates of the different media.
http://www.impactwaterproducts.com/#!FerriLite-Iron-Manganese-H2S-/zoom/c5r7/imagekwy

 

[oxjam]

I am not a pro, and others may have better ideas.

Looks like very nice water. I would put 1 or 2 Big Blue 20*4.5 inch filter housings with polypropylene cartridge(s) to handle any sediment. If you have a lot of sediment you could use that filter you have as a backwashing filter with maybe sand media or keep the charcoal to catch sediment. Since you did not mention sediment, it is probably well within the abilities of the non-backwashing filter. A backwashing filter for you is probably overkill.. but you already have it.... I see no additional need other than a softener to handle your 20.5 grains (350 mg/liter) of hardness. You only have 0.1 ppm of iron. You also have 0.15 ppm of manganese. That is a bit high. The softener can deal with that too.

Put your numbers into this: http://www.qualitywaterassociates.com/sizing.php

I don't see a reason to chlorinate, but I would sanitize your well and plumbing system. http://www.moravecwaterwells.com/disin_test.htm is my favorite method. It is not the simplest, but it makes very good sense to me. I would get some high-range chlorine test paper to see if you have the right value. I would also consider some narrow range pH paper to see if you have the water acidic enough to make the chlorine work best.

How deep is your well?

I'm not sure. I assume not to deep because I have jet pump

 

[oxjam]

I would remove the GAC from your tank and replace it with a Ferrilite media which is a Clinoptilolite media coated and impregnated with Manganese Dioxide. This should remove the manganese and Iron and any sediment down to the 3 micron range. If you go this route, be sure to adjust the backwash flow control on the 2510 to match the backwash rates of the different media.
http://www.impactwaterproducts.com/#!FerriLite-Iron-Manganese-H2S-/zoom/c5r7/imagekwy

Ferrilite is new too me. I was looking at birm or filox. So I can just backwash with water only? Is the backwash rate listed for the media? I found this site of cheap media. Not marked up like all the other sites. I was looking at 300 for media now only $75.http://www.aquascience.net/filtration-media/ I also dont see feerilite on this site what would be comparable. thanks for info

 

[Lifespeed]

I would remove the GAC from your tank and replace it with a Ferrilite media which is a Clinoptilolite media coated and impregnated with Manganese Dioxide. This should remove the manganese and Iron and any sediment down to the 3 micron range. If you go this route, be sure to adjust the backwash flow control on the 2510 to match the backwash rates of the different media.
http://www.impactwaterproducts.com/#!FerriLite-Iron-Manganese-H2S-/zoom/c5r7/imagekwy

I recall you were going to offer a cool new Iron/sulfur media. It sounds very nice and practical to implement without a high-power water pump. It would be the perfect application for my in-laws well. Someday they will see the light, but right now they just see orange in their bathroom fixtures. And low pressure, etc.

 

[ditttohead]

Ferrilite backwashes at 15 GPM per ft2. So a 10" tank would need approximately 8 gpm to backwash. As with every other media, this is highly dependent on water temperature. Lower temperatures require less, higher temperatures require more. 15 GPM per ft2 is based on 60 degrees F.

Birm contains trace amounts of manganese dioxide as the catalyst, less than 1%. Filox is manganese dioxide ore. Ferrilite is a hybrid between these two. Removal rates similar to Filox/Pyrolox, with backwash rates closer to Birm. We sell all of these medias, but our preference is the Ferrilite. It is more expensive than birm but has a much higher operating range.