plastic and non-adjustable vs stainless and adjustable. Also, if I read correctly, a CSV125-1 can drip a tad, but I expect a pan under it can catch that.
PK1A includes the CSV1A plus a tank, mounting hardware, and some other stuff.
Help with a 1hp jet pump cycling on a shallow well
- Thread starter Stackz
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PK1A includes the CSV1A plus a tank, mounting hardware, and some other stuff.
Stackz
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hmm interesting. everything runs directly off the pump port right now. if you look at the 1st pic in reply #17 you can see it shooting off to the left and then transitioning (behind the wood sink support) into the green garden hose. all the hoses are clear. been there done that. I run water through all of them before hooking them up and I have filter o-rings on all sprinklers (hell, I've had cockroaches get stuck in them...they are endemic here).
anyway. the pump is at the back corner of the property and then I run the back yard off it. then have a hose going ALL the way up front where I then plumb in the front stuff. you would think the backyard vs the front yard would short cycle first as the pump has to fill all that line up...I will recheck everything but I'm starting to get short on time before I need to list the house.
can I get away with the CSV125 valve? apparently there are different pressure rated ones? I have a 20/40 switch on the unit now and when it is off, line pressure is sitting right at about 22psi?? I guess is what makes me think I should de=pressurize and check the charge on the expansion tank? shouldnt it sit up higher pressure wise when the system is just idle?
anyway. the pump is at the back corner of the property and then I run the back yard off it. then have a hose going ALL the way up front where I then plumb in the front stuff. you would think the backyard vs the front yard would short cycle first as the pump has to fill all that line up...I will recheck everything but I'm starting to get short on time before I need to list the house.
can I get away with the CSV125 valve? apparently there are different pressure rated ones? I have a 20/40 switch on the unit now and when it is off, line pressure is sitting right at about 22psi?? I guess is what makes me think I should de=pressurize and check the charge on the expansion tank? shouldnt it sit up higher pressure wise when the system is just idle?
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Stackz
Member
this doesnt bother me as the entire thing is outside so a little bit of drip will just evaporate.
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Sure. The CSV125 will work with that pump. You would want the CSV125-3 in 30 PSI to work with a 20/40 switch. Or a CSV125-3 in 40 PSI to work with a 30/50 switch.
Stackz
Member
I think I have a 20/40 installed but also have a 30/50...wait...cant remember...but most definitely have a 20/40 installed. I will look when I'm over at the house with the painter for a quote a little bit.
can I ask a weird question. I went by earlier on my way home from dropping off ebay sales at the UPS store, and un-charged the system and checked the tank. it was right at almost 40psi. I dropped it to 36psi and then recharged it. after it shut off...it was still reading about 25psi at idle. seems weird to me but apparently I guess since nobody has said anything thats ok?? my main house is on a 30/50 switch with a 40 gallon tank (same pump) and its idle pressure is almost 45psi...
I guess smaller tank?
I'm almost tempted to just take my switch and swap it since mine is a 30/50 and then get a digital pressure switch because I saw one on your customer pics and then go with the big boy CSV once I get my own garage rebuilt. then I can tightly package everything in the corner on top of a metal grate...
EDIT::: huge question. does choking down from 1-1/4" to 3/4" do much? I mean I know its a restriction but my pump outlet is 1" which goes to straight 3/4". I would assume I want to come directly out of the pump to the CSV and then to everything else at 3/4"?
Stackz
Member
huh? how do I tell which model I need specifically? you just listed the same part number for two different pressure ratings, I'm so confused suddenly....
Those switches can be adjusted. Rotate the nut on the big spring 3.5 turns CW to raise a 20/30 to 30/50. Or go in between. You want to make sure that the pump can generate enough pressure to shut off.
Driving one regular hose thread tap? No.
Pressure setting is like a third part of the part number if that feels better to you.
Stackz
Member
so I can buy the CSV 125 50-3 valve at true value (local dealer) and then just jack up the pressure on the pressure switch I have? I'm going to install it as-is first and see what happens before I start playing with the pressure switch since I dont know exactly what to look/listen for and dont want to ruin an otherwise good switch...
Bannerman
Well-Known Member
The tank air charge needs to be always checked and adjusted with the pump shut off and the water drained so there is 0 pressure in the plumbing from the pump.
With a 30/50 pressure switch, if there was 30 psi in the tank's air chamber, then the tank will contain 0 water when the water pressure is at 30 psi to activate the pump. If the pump had a slight delay activating, then water flow could momentarily stop until the pump is up to speed. By placing 25- 28 psi in the air chamber, a small amount of water will remain in the tank which will continue to provide water flow if there was a slight pump delay.
The pump will shut off when the pressure switch senses 50 psi. With such a small pressure tank, even a small amount of water drawn after the pump is shut off will cause the system pressure to lower to less than 50. Very normal for the idle system pressure to be anywhere between 30 and 50 when using a 30/50 pressure switch.
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Stackz
Member
thank you for thoroughly confusing me. thanks for that. wow. or just say....I need to see x amount of pressure in the tank with the system decharged. something along those lines.
do I need 15psi in the bladder before hitting it with water for a 30/50 system? I mean seriously? I havent been doing this for 30 years like you and I doubt you will drive from ontario to help me out of the goodness of your heart....
do I need 15psi in the bladder before hitting it with water for a 30/50 system? I mean seriously? I havent been doing this for 30 years like you and I doubt you will drive from ontario to help me out of the goodness of your heart....
Bannerman
Well-Known Member
The tank air precharge is usually adjusted in consideration of the pressure switch settings. For a larger tank fed by a submersible pump, 28psi is the usual air precharge, but with your small tank fed by a jet pump, no less than 25 psi for your 30/50 system.
If using a CSV that is calibrated for 50 psi, then the pressure switch settings would need to be 40/60 and the pressure tank precharge increased to 35-38, assuming your pump is capable of achieving 60+ psi.
LOL! I couldn't even if I wanted to. Beyond the Border restrictions, here in Ontario, we are officially in lockdown. We are 'required' to stay in our homes unless needing to attend a grocery store, pharmacy, hardware store (curbside pickup only) or to work at an essential job.
Because some stores such as Walmart sell food and other items, sections of those stores not containing food. pharmacy and cleaning items are blocked off to prevent shopper access.
When the full lockdown was again enacted this past April, the Province announced playgrounds would be again closed and this time, Police were to be given authority to pull over cars to determine why the occupants are traveling and ticket those without 'valid' reason. There was much immediate uproar by parents, and various Police forces voiced opposition, our Premier was forced to rescind those two restrictions, although the other restrictions remain in effect.
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stackz, can you update your email address. I'm getting returned emails addressed to you.
Terry Love
Terry Love
Stackz
Member
yes sir, just did that. I cant believe it still had my knology account which hasnt been active since about 2015 or so....was bought out by WoW! at that time but I went to my gmail account as I toss around service providers for internet for the cheapest rate.
Stackz
Member
so this one?? CTS-125-1??
https://cyclestopvalves.com/collect...ntrol-valves/products/csv125-cycle-stop-valve
but I want it as the 30psi model? can I do any faster shipping than either UPS ground or priority mail?? I know this is your website...I will pay to have it by friday here and order today.
Stackz
Member
also where exactly can I mount this thing? I want to come rigth off the pump outlet and then replumb so the expansion tank is facing up up, and then go from there to the spigot. should I move the pressure switch off the pump housing and put it on the piping after the cycle valve and expansion tank? I was also thinking (since I still have spare pipe and fittings of just hooking back into the main piping) its two spigots my grandpa hooked up a long long time ago. I will just jam a garden hose from street supply into the line I think I need to charge to check for water flow before doing this. If not then so be it.
You could either
- take the tube that connects the existing pressure switch to downstream of the CSV, and plug the vacated hole in the pump.
- bypass the current switch, and mount a new switch at the pressure tank, or move the existing switch rather than getting a new one, and plug the old path.
Take a look at the picture in Valveman's avatar.
Seems to me that the pressure tank could alternately be on the top port, and the water output on the 3/4 inch side port. Anyway, you want the pressure switch connection to be near the pressure tank input, and the 1/2 inch port on the CSV1A would be good to that. Tee that with the pressure gauge. https://cyclestopvalves.com/pages/csv1a-specifications You would have to bush down the 1-inch FIP output port for the pressure tank if your pressure tank has a 3/4 inch thread.
This one seems to have a check valve above the pump, because there was no foot valve, or earlier check valve, in this system.
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Stackz
Member
here's how its plumbed as of right now per first page of this thread:
I'm going to remove the sink and keep that for my primary house and rebuild the "housing" but leave it mainly alone to be honest. it will have about a 45* angle roof instead of a sink on top. that sink will come home and stay in the family and be used as a fish scaling table next to the grill top I'm about to build.
you can see the dark pump in the middle and then I just sorta have the expansion tank hanging above. not good weight-wise. I will either move it (once sink basin is gone) or leave it and brace it with wood or metal strapping I have. but right off the pump I have a T. I would assume I need to instead have the CSV there? then everything else? and to the right of the T on on the housing you can see the pressure gauge and switch. should I move them as well? easily done. I have a pvc T that goes down to the size I need for those as well (was going to return for money if not needed). it just seems (with my limited knowledge) the further from the pump housing itself I keep the switch/gauge, the better resolution I get for the pressure....
You could have piping to the CSV, and everything does go after the CSV.
I would not want plastic piping supporting that tank horizontally. Metal can do that, or you could support the tank somehow. For support planning, plan for a pressure tank to eventually fail, and become full of water.
I would not want plastic piping supporting that tank horizontally. Metal can do that, or you could support the tank somehow. For support planning, plan for a pressure tank to eventually fail, and become full of water.
Stackz
Member
just got off the phone with karen at valveman's site. she is a wonderful person and doesnt confuse me like you guys are trying to do haha. ordered a CSV125 set for 30psi with 2 day delivery. hope to have the yard getting watered while I paint the inside this weekend to get the house the ready to show. will do as you and karen said Reach4...I will move everything after the valve so nothing sees head pressure. sometimes talking is much easier than reading back/forth. not knocking because this forum is built on gods of well pumps but a voice can say a thousand words in print.
I agree with you on the tank being supported (hard to tell in the pic, but even I was like...yeah. not so much but had a scrap piece of wood holding it up on the long end). I will have it go vertical once that sink is out of the way....which will be after the CSV and then after that and the bladder tank will be the pressure switch and pressure gauge.
I will post a final pic of what it looks like before I seal it all up.
I agree with you on the tank being supported (hard to tell in the pic, but even I was like...yeah. not so much but had a scrap piece of wood holding it up on the long end). I will have it go vertical once that sink is out of the way....which will be after the CSV and then after that and the bladder tank will be the pressure switch and pressure gauge.
I will post a final pic of what it looks like before I seal it all up.
Stackz
Member
I dont understand why most places have the pressure switch mounted to the pump housing (head pressure) if that pretty much isnt right. its weird to me.
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