Help! What to do shower drain/Joist?

[afwxman]

I pulled out an old one piece shower and the drain is not centered. I need to move it approx 10 inches but the joist is in the way. The problem is the slope of the drain from vent pipe would require me to cut the top of the joist to get it on center. Any suggestion on how I should go about doing this? I appreciate the help.

Thanks

 

[Terry]

You're supposed to leave 2" on the top and the bottom of the joist. Yes, you seem to be at the top right now. Is there a way to move over a joists from a different location, like the floor below?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Dgeist]

If you've got some carpentry skills, you can double up (sister) the joists on either side and box out the area with some perpendicular framing sections then just put in some small-ish braces in a few spots to support the shower floor between the doubled joist spans (and also provide some support for the drywall below).

 

[afwxman]

Thanks for the replies

If you've got some carpentry skills, you can double up (sister) the joists on either side and box out the area with some perpendicular framing sections then just put in some small-ish braces in a few spots to support the shower floor between the doubled joist spans (and also provide some support for the drywall below).

The problem is how would I box and go perpendicular when the pipe is parrallel. I would still have to put a notch into the one that the pipe will have to run through.
Thanks for the reply.

 

[afwxman]

You're supposed to leave 2" on the top and the bottom of the joist. Yes, you seem to be at the top right now. Is there a way to move over a joists from a different location, like the floor below?

Below is my living room and ripping out more of the ceiling is not something I really wanted to get into. Do you think if I put a 22.5 coupler father back on the drain pipe and notched the top then sister either 3/4 plywood or another 2x10 that would suffice?

 

[Dgeist]

I found a nice pictogram on notching. You can notch the top (but not bottom except on the ends), but only to a certain depth/width and only in the outer 1/3 of the span. If you "built" a trap with a few long-bend elbows and a small straight section as the bottom of the trap, would you be able to bore a hole > 2" from the bottom edge? Outer diameter of 2" is 2.375 and that's less than 1/3 of a 2x8's height. I'm not sure of your joist size, but they look like 2x8 or 2x10 to me.

 

[BruceL]

I think I'm missing something. If the drain needs to go where the pink dot is, couldn't you go back a couple of feet, drill through the joist where it's OK, use two long sweep elbows and wind up with the drain in the right place?

Bruce

 

[afwxman]

I think I'm missing something. If the drain needs to go where the pink dot is, couldn't you go back a couple of feet, drill through the joist where it's OK, use two long sweep elbows and wind up with the drain in the right place?

Bruce

I wish I could but the grade of the pipe is not much shallower then where the current drain is (approx 1/2 lower ) I would still have to notch out the joist or maybe have a hole within 1 inch from the top.

 

[Dgeist]

@afwxman , is the bottom of the trap at least 2" above the bottom of the joist? Consider my suggestion above (build up the trap in place through the joist).

 

[Ed Rogers]

@afwxman Did you ever solve this problem? Running into the same issue with our bathroom remodel.