Help, Sunday afternoon and well problem

[Charp]

I changed the pressure switch from an old pumptrol to a merrill, eliminated a receptacle that was wired in a single gang box on the side of the control box. That receptacle was only hot when the pump was running. I didn't realize that the new pressure switch has 3 postions, auto-start-off. The old one just auto and off. I could hear the contacts when flipping the switch from off to auto and back but off. Once I figured it out and went to start the pump started and switched to auto I had water. Problem is that I could smell something burning. Pulled the control box cover and the visible lug on the run capacitor, between the capacitor and circuit board is glowing while the pump is running. The control box is an old Red Jacket with a relay, start and run capacitor. All I know about the pump is from a 12 year old receipt from a defunct well company that says 10LS10 1 HP SUB. The diagram under the cover says the run capacitor is optional. Is there a possibility of bypassing it? How do I safely pull the capacitor, test it and clean the connections? What Franklin box should I get for this pump? There are 3 wires going into the control box from the well head.

 

[Valveman]

If the wire or connector to the capacitor is not loose, then the capacitor is bad. Yes a run cap on a 1HP is optional. So you should be able to make a standard 1HP franklin control box work fine.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Charp]

I was watching a video on testing capacitors and it said to short across the terminals to render it safe. Is this true? I also read that shorting across the terminals can cause it to explode! Am I safe if I wear leather gloves and pull the run capacitor to clean up the terminals?
The pressure switch is not part of the problem? I doubt it. Removing the receptacle, I just wire nutted the 2 yellow wires together that were connected to one side of the receptacle. The black wire to the other side was just a pigtail from the wire nutted connection of the black wire from the control box and the black wire from the pressure switch.

Thanks for your reply, I guess I need to pull myself away from the wild card game to try and fix it.

 

[Valveman]

Make sure the power is off then short across the capacitor with a screwdriver. Otherwise it can hold a charge and zap you when you try to unplug it.

 

[Charp]

Thank you again

 

[Charp]

When I pulled the run capacitor the front connector in the circuit board pulled out. It had burned a hole where the connector was soldered to the circuit board. The pump is running good without it. Now I'm debating on whether I should take the day off tomorrow and replace the control box before something else burns up! I'm wondering how much longer the galvanized pipe and fittings will last. The galv. nipple that the pressure switch was connected to was seriously corroded and totally clogged. I removed some 3/4" galv. pipe from the brass tank tee and it was really corroded. The tee on top of the wellhead is galv. as are the pipes and fittings leading to the tank tee. Now I'm concerned about the drop pipe wondering if it's also galvanized. When the pump was replaced 12 years ago nothing else was done. Everything else could be 39 years old! Our water is moderately hard, moderately mineralized and slightly alkaline. We sometimes have problems with iron and sulfur, but that's inconsistent.