Help please. Is this right? Drop in tub tile gap.

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Steve Manley

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This is my new drop in bathtub that the contractors built a frame for, tiled, and then dropped the tub in. The first picture shows the rear of the tub which is what I envisioned the fitment should look like all around the tub. However, the other pictures show a rather large gap around most of the rest of the tub. You can rock the tub some from side to side on the drain end. Also, the tile seems to be unlevel on the drain end too. The tub itself is pretty level but I think it's ugly and at least needs to be remotared.

My questions are: Is this normal? Would lifting the tub and redoing the motar work? Does the tile need redone? I know it's hard to say for sure but your inputs would be appreciated. I have a feeling I may have to fight the contractor on this one. They've been very accommodating so far, though. Thanks.

manley-tub-01.jpg


manley-tub-02.jpg


manley-tub-03.jpg


manley-tub-04.jpg
 

Reach4

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You might want to get a level to understand what is going on better.

level-alum.jpg
 
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Steve Manley

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You might want to get a level to understand what is going on better.
level-alum.jpg
I've got a level. The tub itself is pretty level. My questions are about the gap between the tub lip and tile. Some of the tile is not level.
 
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Reach4

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I am now thinking you were referring to flatness (lippage) when you said "the tile seems to be unlevel".

I am pretty sure the tile work would not meet the standards of the pros here.
 

Terry

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It looks like they placed too much mortar under the tub. The tub should drop down to the tile. I could see maybe a little gap somewhere, but that baby is up in the air waving at other airplanes.
 

hj

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I had one last week where the "mortar bed" under the tub expanded and raised the tub 1 1/2" above the deck. I had to take the tub out and remove the "whatever it was" and reset it . Once I did that the tub set on the tile ALL the way around the rim, which is how they are supposed to be installed.
 

Steve Manley

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I've googled and googled and the best answer I can find is you don't want the rim supporting the weight of the tub of course and that's why you use the mortar bed. Kohler, which mine is, seems to instruct to leave a 1/16" gap around the rim, which seems reasonable.
http://www.us.kohler.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/114848_2.pdf
The best I can tell, my gap is about 3/8" in most places.
 

Terry

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I'm laughing my head off at those instructions!
Are they serious?

In lawyer speak, they've done good. It's impossible to set their tubs correctly, so the blame now all goes to the installer. Good job Kohler.

I still like their tubs anyway. :)
 
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Steve Manley

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Still waiting on a powwow with the contractor. So can anyone tell me if what they've done so far is correct or acceptable? I'm thinking they need to pull the tub, re do the mortar base at least and see how that does. If it's still messed up they may have to redo the entire enclosure or at least some of the deck tiles. The initial responses from them so far are that the tub is level which seems to be the end all thing. Yeah, except if it's sticking up way out of it's enclosure. Sorry, been obsessing over this for a couple days now. Thanks.
 

Jadnashua

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If you hear crunching and it rocks, it needs to be removed and reset. "Almost" level across that 5-6' could easily result in that gap on one end. You are right, at least on a non-cast iron tub, you certainly do not want it hanging by the rim, and even with a CI one, it should be supported properly (normally it would sit on legs or a mortar bed with ledger boards to keep it from rocking which typically can't be installed with a drop-in).
 

ShowerDude

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You have a pickle there. unnaceptable tile work and a long term leak hazard as well it sounds as an improper install.

while I am far from perfect , I would suggest you ask it to be redone and look closer at how the tub deck was built/prepped.


often times we will overbuild the tub deck in the framing stage other times that works been done when we arrive.

sometimes its.....set the tub with 1/8 shims and backfill with silicone. then tile around tub and again with the silicone.

better yet if we can we will tile first and set tub with shims over the waterproofed tiled deck. depending on tile material and the way the deck is framed/weight/size of tub and if its set in concrete or foam over osb or slab on grade.... a case by case scenario that doesnt work in a lab or manual setting so well.


if the tub deck is not built well and the tub poorly set and has any deflection/movement the weight of a full tub and human will stress tile & deck if flange rested o n or to close.

all tile and deck/waterproofing should be pitched accordingly so no water pools at tub flange

just my long winded opinion!
 

FullySprinklered

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Get someone good in there to float the platform and retile it. If you're in Metro ATL I have a good tile man.
 
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