Help Novice with Cabin Waste Lines

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bexbex

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Hi everyone,

Total novice lady plumber here. My 500 sq foot cabin is in a remote area and all the waste lines run in a TINY crawlspace, I couldn't get a plumber to come out and do this job so I'm taking a crack at it myself. I am enjoying this process and don't mind redoing some of this if I need to.

It is challenging to see from the photos but my propane installer laid his propane line DIRECTLY above my septic inlet, which is complicating things quite a bit.

Question:

Currently I have my tiny apartment sized (2.4 cubic foot) washing machine at the end of a run, upstream of a toilet, which I have learned might be a big no-no. It is has a 2 inch dry vent and ties into a 3 inch waste line that then picks up my bathroom group, which goes toilet, tub, and double sink. The bathroom group is vented via a 2 inch vent running up from the sinks and also ties into the 2 inch vent stack. The bathroom fixtures are all under 6 feet from the main vent stack.

Do I need to change where my washing machine ties in to the system so the toilet is at the end of the run? As you can see from my diagram, I also mistakenly installed another vent just downstream of the washing machine thinking it would vent the toilet, which I know now is wrong. So the washing machine is essentially double vented, which I don't think is a problem?

Thank you!

Thanks in advance!

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James Henry

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Hi everyone,

Total novice lady plumber here. My 500 sq foot cabin is in a remote area and all the waste lines run in a TINY crawlspace, I couldn't get a plumber to come out and do this job so I'm taking a crack at it myself. I am enjoying this process and don't mind redoing some of this if I need to.

It is challenging to see from the photos but my propane installer laid his propane line DIRECTLY above my septic inlet, which is complicating things quite a bit.

Question:

Currently I have my tiny apartment sized (2.4 cubic foot) washing machine at the end of a run, upstream of a toilet, which I have learned might be a big no-no. It is has a 2 inch dry vent and ties into a 3 inch waste line that then picks up my bathroom group, which goes toilet, tub, and double sink. The bathroom group is vented via a 2 inch vent running up from the sinks and also ties into the 2 inch vent stack. The bathroom fixtures are all under 6 feet from the main vent stack.

Do I need to change where my washing machine ties in to the system so the toilet is at the end of the run? As you can see from my diagram, I also mistakenly installed another vent just downstream of the washing machine thinking it would vent the toilet, which I know now is wrong. So the washing machine is essentially double vented, which I don't think is a problem?

Thank you!

Thanks in advance!View attachment 67262
hangers.
https://www.ipscorp.com/pdf/watertite/12785_IPS_DWV_Hanger_SellSheet.pdf
 

bexbex

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It's not correct. run all the fixtures at the same time, if everything works OK, then leave it alone.
Thanks for responding. That makes sense but my walls are still open and I don't have anything hooked up to test it. It wouldn't be a big deal to reroute the washer because I have a 2 inch line that connects directly to the waste line with nothing tied into it at the moment.
 

James Henry

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Thanks for responding. That makes sense but my walls are still open and I don't have anything hooked up to test it. It wouldn't be a big deal to reroute the washer because I have a 2 inch line that connects directly to the waste line with nothing tied into it at the moment.
I can't give you a definitive opinion without a floor plan.
 

wwhitney

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Looks like Maine is under the UPC?

The biggest problem I see is that your bathtub is not vented.

How interested are you in getting it UPC-compliant? If you cut out everything below the floor joists and lower the bath trap, then it would be simplest to have most of the horizontal runs about 1" - 3" below the floor joists. You have enough vents that you'd only have to rework things the crawl space, most likely.

Or if you'd prefer to get "more" UPC compliant while minimizing rework, I could think a little about how to use some of what you have.

Cheers, Wayne
 

James Henry

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Looks like Maine is under the UPC?

The biggest problem I see is that your bathtub is not vented.

How interested are you in getting it UPC-compliant? If you cut out everything below the floor joists and lower the bath trap, then it would be simplest to have most of the horizontal runs about 1" - 3" below the floor joists. You have enough vents that you'd only have to rework things the crawl space, most likely.

Or if you'd prefer to get "more" UPC compliant while minimizing rework, I could think a little about how to use some of what you have.

Cheers, Wayne
Plumbing's so easy even a mathematician can do it.
 

bexbex

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Looks like Maine is under the UPC?

The biggest problem I see is that your bathtub is not vented.

How interested are you in getting it UPC-compliant? If you cut out everything below the floor joists and lower the bath trap, then it would be simplest to have most of the horizontal runs about 1" - 3" below the floor joists. You have enough vents that you'd only have to rework things the crawl space, most likely.

Or if you'd prefer to get "more" UPC compliant while minimizing rework, I could think a little about how to use some of what you have.

Cheers, Wayne

Thanks for your response. I'm not too worried about being code compliant. Because of the positioning of the propane line, which runs directly over my septic inlet, I was struggling to keep the lines just below the joists and still have two connection points. I can vet the tub without too much trouble though.
 

bexbex

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Looks like Maine is under the UPC?

The biggest problem I see is that your bathtub is not vented.

How interested are you in getting it UPC-compliant? If you cut out everything below the floor joists and lower the bath trap, then it would be simplest to have most of the horizontal runs about 1" - 3" below the floor joists. You have enough vents that you'd only have to rework things the crawl space, most likely.

Or if you'd prefer to get "more" UPC compliant while minimizing rework, I could think a little about how to use some of what you have.

Cheers, Wayne

Also- this might be important, I have a HEPVO trap on the tub line instead of a P-trap to prevent freezing in the line. https://hepvo.com/
 

wwhitney

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Also- this might be important, I have a HEPVO trap on the tub line instead of a P-trap to prevent freezing in the line. https://hepvo.com/
That is an interesting product. You've gotten your local building department's approval to use it? It claims to eliminate the need for a fixture vent.

Cheers, Wayne
 

bexbex

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I haven't! Maybe I should check in with them. This is a small cabin up on posts, so I can't have a p-trap under the tub without it freezing. I insulated the floor from above instead of installing a foundation.
 

wwhitney

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If you had to use a regular p-trap, you could build an insulated box around it, and cut out any insulation above the box, so that the p-trap gets warmth from the cabin. But that would be less thermally efficient than what you have now.

Cheers, Wayne
 

bexbex

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If you had to use a regular p-trap, you could build an insulated box around it, and cut out any insulation above the box, so that the p-trap gets warmth from the cabin. But that would be less thermally efficient than what you have now.

Cheers, Wayne

Yea that's what I did with my well line, a super insulated box that comes from below the frost line into the house. If the hepvo doesn't work I'll try that! Thanks.
 
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