Help me plan for Mini Splits in my new construction house?

Discussion in 'HVAC Heating & Cooling' started by ahreno, Mar 25, 2018.

  1. ahreno

    ahreno New Member

    Mar 25, 2018
    I'm in the middle of building a house... framing almost done. I'm in northern california and would like to use mini splits for air conditioning. I have in floor radiant heat and also a wood fire place for heat so i have no need for heat. Was told mini splits are a good energy efficient way to add air conditioning as a big central air system is not in the plans/budget.

    Heres the floor plan:


    My thinking was one three zone on the right side (three bedrooms, each approx ± 14'x12')

    Then maybe a dual zone for the great room and master? or a separate one for each?

    Going with mini splits allows me to do it in stages (budget) but i need to run power now. I've been told its efficient for cooling but not the best for heating.

    I just looked into some 3 zone ones and they seem to only come with 16' of hose. am i able to do longer runs?

    where is a good supplier to look at units?

    any recommendations as to go with ceiling vents (look better but another hole in the envelope) the big ass wall blowers, or something else?

    here's a simplified version of my floor plan too:

  2. Dana

    Dana In the trades

    Jan 14, 2009
    Find a web location that will store a higher-res version of the drawing. It's completely illegible.

    Got a ZIP code (for weather data & design temp purposes)?

    The "head in every room" approach is guaranteed to oversize the system, costing more money up front, and less comfort down the line. Run this tool on a room-by-room basis using AGGRESSIVE assumptions on air tightness, shading, factors etc. so as not to oversize by too much. (Like most online tools, it oversizes by quite a bit even with aggressive assumptions.)

    A typical 150-200' bedroom has a peak cooling load well UNDER a half ton, which is the smallest heads used for multi-splits. Only a west-facing room with a lot of window glass would come anywhere near needing it's own head, and most would have design cooling loads less than the minimum modulated output of the head. It looks like the bedroom windows all face SE, which means after noon they're either in full shad or most of the heat/light is getting reflected off the exterior surface of the windows due to the high sun angle, and NO direct sun during the heat of the afternoon. This dramatically reduces the peak loads experience by those rooms compared to the same house turned to where the glass would be facing the southeast.

    It's possible to use mini-ducted solutions routed below the ceiling using soffited runs for the ducts, or in an air sealed service bay just above the ceiling plane, under the insulation. But it's good to have a plan before all the gypsum board goes up.
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2018
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