Help me interpret pump changes

[Valveman]

My 1992 book shows motor model number 2243011. The control box should be compatible. And yes easy swap, cable guard and four bolts.

 

[Leeelson]

My 1992 book shows motor model number 2243011. The control box should be compatible. And yes easy swap, cable guard and four bolts.

I've done some more digging, and talked to World Wide power & Pump who sold me the Grundfos. It looks like the Grundfos motor is model 96449947 which has a max thrust of 1500 and max current draw of 13.2 amps. WWP&P says that the equivalent Franklin is 2243018602G which comes with a "motor lead" which they say is needed (there is an equivalent model without) and is pretty pricey (about twice the Grundfos).

I'm thinking that to hedge my bets and minimize down time (**very** important) I might buy the Franklin motor, pull the Grundfos and if the motor is the problem, replace it with the Franklin. If the pump is the problem, I would then have to buy a Franklin pump (not sure which one since they don't come as packages at 25 GPM/2HP) and a Franklin control box. How does Franklin compare to Grundfos in quality?

Assuming the above makes sense, what to look for when the motor/pump is pulled?
1)Motor shaft. Assuming that its not the thrust bearing, might this tell us nothing unless it feels like it's binding?
2)Remove CSV and compare dead head pressure to original (100 PSI). If less, is it the motor or pump? Can we put a flow restrictor on the output and see what happens to the current?
3)Examine pump for sediment?
4)?

Is the above the best way to determine the problem? What else (motor resistance?) can we look at before committing a new motor to the hole?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

Leeelson, https://terrylove.com/forums/index....ipro-motor-no-lock-washers.76546/#post-561217 has some pump nut info that might be helpful.

 

[Valveman]

I found a 2HP Franklin on a Grundfos pump is a good combination. Franklin pumps are one of my least favorite. I am guessing the motor shaft will have side to side play if it is what I think it is. Also check stick up height of the motor to see if low flow past the motor has been a problem.

 

[Leeelson]

And the answer is...

Funny how the solution to a problem is often obvious once it's known. Both the Grundfos pump and motor are performing well. A checkout reveals pressure and current draws very close to book values. The problem? A leak at the very corroded fitting just above the pump. Why the slow decline over weeks? New holes opening up in the fitting (3 in all, one very large). Found a good (but expensive) installer who did a thorough check of everything including (my first recorded) draw down test.

Thanks to all in this forum who provided input.

 

[Valveman]

Thanks for letting us know. Good to know the motor and pump are still fine. I expected many more than 2 or 3 years of pump life since you have a CSV. I am guessing the fitting was a nipple above the pump but below the check valve? Otherwise you would have been complaining about other problems like air in the lines, water hammer, or the pump coming on when there was no usage. I hope a brass or Stainless nipple was used this time? BTW even a galvanized nipple will last when screwed into brass or Stainless, which causes Electrolysis, just need to wrap over everything with electric tape.

 

[Boycedrilling]

Leeelson, what you have experienced is known as dissimilar metal electrolysis. A galvanized nipple screwed into a stainless steel pump will concentrate all the electrolysis into the nipple right next to the Pump.

The solution is to do as Valveman says, use a stainless nipple, or insulate the galvanized pipe with tape for a foot or two. If I set a pump on galvanized pipe, it gets solid tape to above the wire splice. I use pvc drop pipe to 400 feet or so, depending on diameter and horsepower. Deeper than that I use galvanized pipe. Regardless of the drop pipe material, I always use a stainless steel nipple on the Pump discharge, along with a check valve. Do I ever use poly pipe for discharge? Ummm, NO.

 

[Leeelson]

Thanks for letting us know. Good to know the motor and pump are still fine. I expected many more than 2 or 3 years of pump life since you have a CSV. I am guessing the fitting was a nipple above the pump but below the check valve? Otherwise you would have been complaining about other problems like air in the lines, water hammer, or the pump coming on when there was no usage. I hope a brass or Stainless nipple was used this time? BTW even a galvanized nipple will last when screwed into brass or Stainless, which causes Electrolysis, just need to wrap over everything with electric tape.

Yes. Just above pump. Should have been replaced when Grundfos was installed 2.5 years ago but wasn't. Now its stainless.