help identify this pressure regulator

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snafflekid

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I am looking for advice on how to proceed with fixing this regulator. We currently have street pressure inside the house. I rotated the screw both directions a while back and don't remember which way lowered the pressure. I think left turn. But the change was not enough and water leaks from around the screw if it is not set all the way tight.

IMG_3200 (1).jpeg


things look corroded.
The gate valve worries me a little but it turns well on and off, with a little water seepage around the stem when not fully opened.
IMG_3204 (1).jpeg


I am considering rebuilding the pressure regulator instead of attempting to replace, but again the screws holding the body together look like steel and are corroded.
IMG_3201 (1).jpeg


I could not identify this model of regulator Maybe Watts, but not sure
IMG_3202 (1).jpeg


and is this a galvanized steel nipple used between the valve and regulator?!? and buried in ground. What was the installer thinking?
IMG_3203 (1).jpeg


And the cherry on the sundae is that these fancy planters have been built around the original handhole.
IMG_3205 (1).jpeg


I have had a plumber look at the problem and they recommend removing everything and starting over. Probably that is best, but the pipe tees off right at the beginning and I am not sure where both legs go.
 
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Tuttles Revenge

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Service companies won't touch replacing the guts because once they open it, its theirs.. and for the trouble of coming back on a warranty call, we would rather simply replace with new. CYA.

Its a WATTS.. But I can't find a Type 5 or repair parts for it either. Maybe a phone call to Watts directly to know which parts kit to purchase.
 

Eman85

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I bought a new one, took the old one apart after replacing and it was pretty gunked up and rusty. For the price of a new one it's just easier to replace it once and be done.
 

Jeff H Young

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thats it new regulator and a ball valve easy peasy! its just not worth rebuilding that valve forget that
 

snafflekid

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Start over. Including that PIT-iful pit. Build a better pit that can rid itself of water.
Ha! I see what you did there. I was trying to wash off the mud after digging the pipes out. But I think a new bigger box a little further in is a good idea.
 
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snafflekid

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Any suggestions how a plumber would approach this replacement? It looks tight trying to fit a new valve and regulator in the same space with a union for easy repairs.

And ball valve rather than gate valve, I assume.
 
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Jeff H Young

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Being from California plus looking at the picture I see a meter box on other side of wall it might have a curb stop and a customer valve So that gate valve might be redundant in which case I might just forget the ball valve. But you are branching off to 2 lines might want isolation valves on them
This is typical type water main in my area though the underground regulator isnt common. Id explore moving regulator to house .
How ever there is way plenty room in that box for a gate and regulator. I would take 10 minutes on the shovel and relocate the tee outside the box or just move it a little more toward the far side if needed 3/4 threaded ball valve, 3/4 x 2 brass nipple, 3/4 thrd double union regulator , some pvc glue and primer , fittings, have a shop vac to suck water out and dry it out
 

Eman85

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What do the 2 lines feed? I have my water line split to feed my home and shop and installed a regulator at each. Playing in the mud with PVC pipe isn't any fun, my lines are PVC also.
 

Jeff H Young

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What do the 2 lines feed? I have my water line split to feed my home and shop and installed a regulator at each. Playing in the mud with PVC pipe isn't any fun, my lines are PVC also.
Ive never installed a reg underground except when replacing and didnt want to relocate , or for a yard irrigation sometimse the pressure just too high.
For guest houses etc I either branch off the main above the regulator from main house or put second reg as you mentioned there is no concern for freeze here and exterior of house is the norm with a shut off valve outside house . we dont just have one way it depends if you are building from scratch or adding another building or system. I wonder where other pipe is going but probebly wouldnt matter in how I would approach this job, the cheapest fix is to replace as I mentioned just throw another one in the same spot
 

snafflekid

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Being from California plus looking at the picture I see a meter box on other side of wall it might have a curb stop and a customer valve So that gate valve might be redundant in which case I might just forget the ball valve. But you are branching off to 2 lines might want isolation valves on them

So this is what is at the curb:
IMG_3206 Large.jpeg

There is a quarter turn valve before the meter. It feels a little stiff, and with this older home I bought and all its booby traps, I'm gunshy about forcing any valve to turn, seriously. (oh the things I have found) I am going to watch the plumber turn it and see what happens. When I got a quote, he suggested just leaving the gate valve and pressure regulator in place and add new down the line. This seems like future trouble to me.

The 1" PVC pipe extends to the house where there is a ball valve before it enters the house. It works, :-D
The other PVC pipe I think feeds some hose bibs in the yard. I don't know what else it would do going in that direction.

And it has crossed my mind, is 120 psi a long term problem for this PVC? I think it is Schedule 40.
 

Jeff H Young

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No Big deal no customer valve. Your plumber sounds lame to me! How will both lines continue to be regulated? And what idiot would leave that crap in the ground absurd idea just my opinion. I would do exactly as I said unless there is a damn good
reason that hasent been pointed out. I agree to relocating it and spending hundreds more maybe run all new from meter if you want to go that route (befor you do landscape work) but PVC can have a long service life Mine is 22 years old.
Just depends if you want to spend under a grand to several thousands of dollars
 

Eman85

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Valve is on the utility side of the meter, it's their problem if it doesn't work. Mine wouldn't shut the water off completely so I had the utility replace it. 120 PSI from the utility is impressive! I bet it's fun with a hose on the yard hydrants.
 

Jeff H Young

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Valve is on the utility side of the meter, it's their problem if it doesn't work. Mine wouldn't shut the water off completely so I had the utility replace it. 120 PSI from the utility is impressive! I bet it's fun with a hose on the yard hydrants.
Correct I dont think anyone is confused on which valve belongs to who . 120 psi while not the norm is very common I have that much too it is fun !
 

snafflekid

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Yes 120 psi is quite exciting. I replaced several irrigation heads and watched them shoot into the air and put on a Bellagio style water show.

Thanks for the help I will get a few more quotes.
 

Jeff H Young

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Yes 120 psi is quite exciting. I replaced several irrigation heads and watched them shoot into the air and put on a Bellagio style water show.

Thanks for the help I will get a few more quotes.
Do you know why it splits to 2 lines at the box? often it tees off for irrigation also often the irrigation is unregulated .
pretty basic job just a matter of knowing what you want and how much expence or benefit is to change things But I would not concider leaving the old regulator or valve in place
 

John Gayewski

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The yard should be regulated simply becuse it needs a method of backflow prevention and most if not all of those require 80psi max supply pressure to keep them in working order without regular repair.
 

snafflekid

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Update:

What I decided to do after getting another plumber out is to have a new HDPE line pulled trenchless from the meter to the house. We live in earthquake country, so PVC in the ground is always going to be risky. And a buried pressure regulator is no longer code compliant. The plumber was willing to bring a manifold and regulator above ground at that handhole, but for twice the cost of this fiddly modification, they would pull a brand new line to the house with regulator at the entrance.

It turns out that the PVC tee fed one hose bib. No big loss.
 

snafflekid

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Here is the new work at the house. Irrigation is now on the city side and I did not like that at first, but now I have the option to adjust that pressure separately

IMG_3279.jpeg


The irrigation manifold is a real crazy jumble I think that will be my next project.
IMG_3285.jpeg


HDPE to copper transition after the tunneling
IMG_3286.jpeg


Also the stop valve on the meter is not completely turning off the water, making the repipe job messy for the guys. Time to call the city.
 
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