HELP - Adding vent to unvented main stack / re do on poorly designed system

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c20j20g

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Hello and thank you all in advance for the help.

I recently purchased a home that was "flipped" and the plumbing in my opinion was done by someone who dosn't do plumbing or a fool or maybe im wrong and you guys can let me know.

First lets start with the configuration - all fixtures are on the first floor / ground level. with the exception of the laundry traY sink pump and main line exit being located in the basement

2 sinks
1 tub
1 toilet
1 laundry sink ( this sink is below the main line discharge so it is pumped up from a zoeller laundry tray pump)

The only vents are attached to the UPSTAIRS sinks
the kitchen sink as a small 1.5 inch (guess) vent off the back which that runs straight up through the roof

the bathroom has a vent 1.5 (guess) that again runs straight up into the attic which then transitions to a 3 inch that exits the roof

There is no vent on the main 3 inch line/stack

The laundry sink pump was vented to the kitchen sink with some creative piping solutions that are not correct but got the pump to function without air locking.

The toilet is located at the top of the main line

currently all fixtures T into other 1.5 inch and all terminate in one 1.5 line into the main stack, theses to me seems terrible and not correct at all

the bath room sink and tub join together into a 1.5 line which then also joins the kitchen sink and again into a 1.5 line. that 1.5 line runs close to the main stack and is join again by the laundry 1.5 line and T's again into a 1.5 line which then runs over to the mainline

whenever a large amount of water fills any of the 1.5 lines to capacity it causes the toilet to burp / bubble

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as you can see vertical space is limited and ill have to re do it.

how should i go about re doing how all the lines tie together and i assume i need to add a vent to the stack.

my plan for adding a vent is to use the opening seen near the bath sink/ tub connections as there is a straight shot of open cavity that i should be able to access from the attic to tie into that existing bath vent in the attic.

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ignore the "pipe extender" i ll be using an internal coupler to prevent having to dig up the yard and re set a new pipe in the wall
 

hj

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You CANNOT use an "internal coupler" on a drain line. I do not have any "reference point" so I cannot be sure, but your drains and vents look like 2" already. The toilet would only "burp/gurgle" if the main line is obstructed, which would alos be a cause of the drain lines "being full" of water.
 
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c20j20g

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ALL LINES ARE 1.5

I have verified this on the actual line labeling

if i pour a large amount of water down the kitchen sink as soon as that line fills with water it starts pushing air into the main line with no where for it go but up and out the toilet because there is no other vent i assume.


i could run any fixture for as long as i please and the lines dont "fill up" but if i empty a 5 gallon bucket into the sink all at once it will make the toilet burp
 
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Reach4

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if i pour a large amount of water down the kitchen sink as soon as that line fills with water it starts pushing air into the main line with no where for it go but up and out the toilet because there is no other vent i assume.
Pushing air out of the toilet only requires that there be significant blockage at or below the santee below the toilet.

I suggest you get your septic pumped as an urgent matter. This presumes you have a septic tank. If you have no septic tank, get your sewer rodded. Less urgent, but still a priority action.
 

Reach4

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That line is not supposed to be full of water.

If it is full of water, poor flushing and belching air into the toilet bowl is expected.

Now how should things work? The lavatory and shower waste should join the toilet waste before the laundry waste gets added. Also, your vertical to horizontal pvc pipe should be a long sweep....

Will it work if you clear the clog, despite not being right to code? Yes. If the blockage is not there, air will go up through that elbow against the arrow you drew, and out the roof.

So what standard are you looking at? Making it work, or making it work and bringing it up to current code?

If you have a septic tank, and fiddle around, you could clog up your septic leach field. That would be very expensive to fix. If you pump your septic sooner than it needs, it does not cost much extra. If you put it off too long, there are big consequences. So unless you have reason to know otherwise, I would spend the $250 (or significantly more if you are in a more expensive area) to get the septic pumped now.

Then do the other stuff, if any, at a more relaxed pace.
 

c20j20g

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Thank you for the reply, for the short term i would just like to get the system to function properly, however i am interested in re doing the the design in the future. I will also be getting the septic tank pumped as a precaution.

I just want to make sure i understand what you are saying.

You believe that this air burp / bubble issue is cause by the tight 90 degree elbow that transition s from the vertical to horizontal circled below?

there are 4 other similar 90 degree bends being used as well, should they be replaced as well?

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c20j20g

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the main 3 inch line has no issue draining, it never fills up with water, so what else is causing air to be pushed up and out of the toilet?

i only get the burps when too much water is moved at once.

example being if someone is showering and the laundry tray pump kicks on, ill get a couple burps and then all goes back to normal.

based on previous responses i would assume this happens when both pipes of water hit that 90 right before the main.
 

James Henry

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If you have a septic system the very first thing you need to do is clean the filter. It's usually always the filter. Had a friend with the same problem last week. Cleaned the filter. Problem gone.
 
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