Heavy rust stains after well pump replacement
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Yes. Level is not high. Your softner or KL filter would take that out.
Not high. Note the MCL**=250 for sulfate for example. 250 is where they would draw the line between high and moderate.
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Hi All,
Thanks again for all great tips. I'm planning to sanitize the well and pipes next weekend. But I have a question about the water softener. What is correct procedure to sanitize it so it won't destroy the resin? The softener is new, it was installed only 3 months ago. I also use salt pellets with Iron Out.
Thanks!
Leo
Thanks again for all great tips. I'm planning to sanitize the well and pipes next weekend. But I have a question about the water softener. What is correct procedure to sanitize it so it won't destroy the resin? The softener is new, it was installed only 3 months ago. I also use salt pellets with Iron Out.
Thanks!
Leo
ditttohead
Water systems designer, R&D
Simply add a few ounces of household bleach to the brine tank. It is not that critical unless it is fouled with bacteria. If it is be sure to acid clean it first.
That is an area that I am not feeling sure about, and certainly an area where my tendency toward overkill is not so good. As I see it, the deal is to not have the bleach in the resin too long or too strong. Here are my thoughts, but it is not down to a procedure.
This is from the Fleck 5800 manual:
I then dumped more water, and flushed the not chlorinated water through the faucets.
This is from the Fleck 5800 manual:
5.25% Sodium Hypochlorite
These solutions are available under trade names such as
Clorox*. If stronger solutions are used, such as those sold for
commercial laundries, adjust the dosage accordingly.
1. Dosage
What did is to stop dumping water to the ditch when the chlorine in recirculating water was down to between 10 and 20 ppm. Then take the softener out of bypass. Then run the water through enough to let the moderately chlorinated water pass through. The next time I do it, I expect to incorporate the bleach into the brine tank thing.These solutions are available under trade names such as
Clorox*. If stronger solutions are used, such as those sold for
commercial laundries, adjust the dosage accordingly.
1. Dosage
A. Polystyrene resin; 1.2 fluid ounce (35.5 ml) per cubic
foot.
B. Non-resinous exchangers; 0.8 fluid ounce (23.7 ml) per
cubic foot.
2. Salt tank softenersfoot.
B. Non-resinous exchangers; 0.8 fluid ounce (23.7 ml) per
cubic foot.
A. Backwash the softener and add the required amount
of hypochlorite solution to the well of the salt tank. The
salt tank should have water in it to permit the solution
to be carried into the softener.
B. Proceed with the normal recharge.
*Clorox is a trademark of the Clorox Company.of hypochlorite solution to the well of the salt tank. The
salt tank should have water in it to permit the solution
to be carried into the softener.
B. Proceed with the normal recharge.
I then dumped more water, and flushed the not chlorinated water through the faucets.
ditttohead
Water systems designer, R&D
It is fairly simple math. Chlorine contains 55,000 ppm, so a simple math equation... anyone here have the 5 minutes to do it? Assume 3 gallons of water in the brine tank and a 60% dilution across the injector. These are all approximates of course.
Should it be added to the brine well or to the salt in the tank?
I'm not sure I understood it. Can you please explain it.
Thanks!
The salt is in the brine well/tank. So same place.
ditttohead
Water systems designer, R&D
If your resin is iron fouled you need to acid clean it before sanitizing. Sanitizing can lock the iron to the resin bead making it very difficult to clean later. Ever try to clean blood out of something with bleach? It basically makes it permanent.
Bleach in the brine well.
Bleach in the brine well.
Is there a way to tell if it's needed? The softener is new and according to water test, it does a good job of softening.
ditttohead
Water systems designer, R&D
Only by taking a sample of the resin. I would recommend cleaning it if it has been exposed to iron. This will not damage the resin. Sanitizing the resin will also have very little negative affect. Just don't sanitize too often. Each dose of chlorine takes off a little life from the resin.
At least as long as it takes to get the chlorine down to 4 ppm or less. You can use sensitive test paper, or a sensitive nose. Pool test kit/paper is good enough.
You could use the high-range test paper alternatively. I do that. Keep a little water handy from before you start your sanitizing. Then use that to wet some high range paper, and compare the color to the paper wetted by the water you are trying to test. When they are the same color, your chlorine level is down.
You could use the high-range test paper alternatively. I do that. Keep a little water handy from before you start your sanitizing. Then use that to wet some high range paper, and compare the color to the paper wetted by the water you are trying to test. When they are the same color, your chlorine level is down.
I've already chlorinated the well on Monday, then I ran the water for about 16 hours. I cannot smell chlorine any more. I've got some packets with total chlorine DPD powder test. It still turns pink but not very bright pink. Unfortunately I do not have a color chart to compare. So I cannot tell the chlorine level.
I expect you are fine.
Those are some sensitive tests.
Put the WH into vacation/off mode if you did not do so already, and empty the WH, presuming that you got chlorine in that during your procedure. I would try to not put that into the septic system, although it is probably OK if you did put it into the septic. This could be a good time to flush the WH while you are at it.
To do a simple water heater flush:
FAS-DPD TEST KITS
K-1515-C
Drop test (uses DPD #3);
1 drop = 0.2 or 0.5 ppm free or combined chlorine (Cl2)
K-1516
Drop test (uses KI crystals);
1 drop = 0.2 or 0.5 ppm free or combined chlorine (Cl2)
K-1515-C
Drop test (uses DPD #3);
1 drop = 0.2 or 0.5 ppm free or combined chlorine (Cl2)
K-1516
Drop test (uses KI crystals);
1 drop = 0.2 or 0.5 ppm free or combined chlorine (Cl2)
Those are some sensitive tests.
Put the WH into vacation/off mode if you did not do so already, and empty the WH, presuming that you got chlorine in that during your procedure. I would try to not put that into the septic system, although it is probably OK if you did put it into the septic. This could be a good time to flush the WH while you are at it.
To do a simple water heater flush:
1. Put the WH into vacation mode (or off), and turn off the water to the WH
2. drain the WH. Open a hot water faucet to admit air.
3. When empty, turn on the incoming water quickly for several seconds to spray against any sediment on the bottom.
4. Drain the WH.
5. Repeat #3 and #4 a few times.
6. Close the drain
7. Turn the water back on.
8. When water is freely coming out of that open faucet, close the faucet.
9. Turn the WH back on.
2. drain the WH. Open a hot water faucet to admit air.
3. When empty, turn on the incoming water quickly for several seconds to spray against any sediment on the bottom.
4. Drain the WH.
5. Repeat #3 and #4 a few times.
6. Close the drain
7. Turn the water back on.
8. When water is freely coming out of that open faucet, close the faucet.
9. Turn the WH back on.
I've run water for few more hours and the test does not turn pink anymore. So this is good.
Next I mixed about 3 ounces of bleach with 1 gallon of water, poured it into the WS brine well and started manual regeneration. But I did not smell any chlorine during the regeneration and test strips did not show any (but these strips are not sensitive and show only 10-200 ppm). So I'm not sure whether I put too little bleach or salt with iron remover neutralized chlorine.
Next I mixed about 3 ounces of bleach with 1 gallon of water, poured it into the WS brine well and started manual regeneration. But I did not smell any chlorine during the regeneration and test strips did not show any (but these strips are not sensitive and show only 10-200 ppm). So I'm not sure whether I put too little bleach or salt with iron remover neutralized chlorine.
You would have seen that in the drain line water about 15 or 20 minutes into the BD phase.
Yes.
Bannerman
Well-Known Member
Chlorine should never be mixed with any type of acid as that will produce toxic chlorine gas which is a lung and eye irritant at best, and fatal at worst.
The additive within iron control salt is often a small quantity of citric acid whereas other iron removal products (ex: Super Iron Out and others) are generally stronger acids.
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