HD W/H Elements

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Construct30

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Yes you failed in the case of comparison to higher education. You did not fail in the case of a exhibiting characteristics of a competent tradesman. Do not pretend to be other than what you are. Do not think that a tradesman is not a valuable contributor to our society. It's all a matter of perspective folks.

I really don't mind, if you read my other post you know I'm where I want to be. For someone with a Ph.D. you should realize that waterheaterology would just be the study of water heater, IF it were a real word, plumbology would be the study of plumbing or maybe verticle level, the Ph.D. thing is far fetched, but the ology part is correct.

I think I deserve a bit more credit on the original knowledge portion of the test. We are all original thinkers here.

Please Professor CHH throw me a bone.

I didn't hear anyone say they had a Ph.D. in engineering or any other realistic degree course.

I'm sorry we have offended you. It is very apparent that you worked hard to get your education and I respect anyone that goes that far with their education.
 

Redwood

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I've been a gynocologist many many times on the weekend...but I really don't think a gyno would care if I used his job title for a little weekend instruction.

This is something I would like to keep amateur status in myself...
Its a lot like when you get sent to that inner city house That you really don't want to work in... You quote crazy high and they say go ahead!
As an amateur you don't have to take the job!:cool:
 

GrumpyPlumber

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The Mrs just peeked in...wants to know what I'm laughing at.
I just told her I was considering a new part time career move.
 

GrumpyPlumber

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I think he has made that obvious by now. Professor CHH Ph.D. No fake ology's there. If not then I want a better grade, I never failed a test in my life.

At this point there are two things I'd like from this thread.
1-More info on these 5500 watt incoloy elements, like how much do they increase recovery? Will they become a new standard for new heaters?
2-More in depth info on Ruggeds recent career aspirations, will there be footage?
 

Redwood

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At this point there are two things I'd like from this thread.
1-More info on these 5500 watt incoloy elements, like how much do they increase recovery? Will they become a new standard for new heaters?
2-More in depth info on Ruggeds recent career aspirations, will there be footage?

I hope he's not using a Ridgid See-Snake!

This thread has 5 stars with a bullet... Its goint to blow the doors off the whirlpool flamelock thread and the am.std. chumpian thread! Jerry Mac Super Star!
 
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Construct30

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At this point there are two things I'd like from this thread.
1-More info on these 5500 watt incoloy elements, like how much do they increase recovery? Will they become a new standard for new heaters?

No, that is too much power difference they would never sell and the power companies wouldn't like it, they prefer bigger tanks. We are up to 80 gallons and they want bigger.

You would have to put them on a 50 amp breaker, I believe for two elements of that size. You would have to change the wire on all the old tanks when you changed them out to range cable. I can't see it happening anytime soon. I don't know what would happen if you put it in the bottom and a smaller one on top, but that would still be a bigger load than you have now.

What would Al Gore say? What would that do to our carbon footprint?
 

Construct30

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This thread has 5 stars with a bullet... Its goint to blow the doors off the whirlpool flamelock thread and the am.std. chumpian thread! Jerry Mac Super Star!

I'm sorry, but Cass started this thread so he get's credit, the stars are after his name, something about hot water elements back there. I wonder if anyone would want to take credit for this one.
It actually got off topic of it's off topic, maybe even more then I think it took a left turn into the sewer.
 
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Redwood

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You would have to put them on a 50 amp breaker, I believe for two elements of that size. You would have to change the wire on all the old tanks when you changed them out to range cable. I can't see it happening anytime soon. I don't know what would happen if you put it in the bottom and a smaller one on top, but that would still be a bigger load than you have now.

What would Al Gore say? What would that do to our carbon footprint?

Only one element is on at a time so its only 21.916 Amps. a 30 Amp. breaker and 10 gauge wire is fine for that... A 20 amp circuit would have a problem... That would be even worse if smockman sells them a 30 amp fuse or, breaker to install.

Who cares what Al Gore would say... He showers with bottled water!
 
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Construct30

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Only one element is on at a time so its only 21.916 Amps. a 30 Amp. breaker and 10 gauge wire is fine for that...

We use 30 amp now. I still think the the new wave will be the self adjusting top element, changing wattage, and more insulation and larger capacity. We love our expensive high tech gadgets that hardly ever work.
 

Cass

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Only one element is on at a time so its only 21.916 Amps. a 30 Amp. breaker and 10 gauge wire is fine for that... A 20 amp circuit would have a problem... That would be even worse if smockman sells them a 30 amp fuse or, breaker to install.

Who cares what Al Gore would say... He showers with bottled water!

How will the 5500 W elements affect the wiring inside the tanks, most are wired with #12, and what about warranty issues due to a sales man selling someone on the idea of quicker recovery on a brand new tank by changing the element B 4 it is installed.
 

Redwood

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I don't know shall we put them next to the Copper Bond, Presoldered Copper Fittings and the like?
 

Jimbo

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How do they get the bottled water in the shower head, didn't you wonder? .

This reminds me of a story from the good old days. When qualifying on submarine duty, one of the things you had to be able to do was draw a fairly complete diagram of systems like HP air, LP air, hydraulics, MBT blow, etc, and including the sanitary ( sewer ) system. A favorite challenge during qualification exams was to require a drawing how to blow the sanitary tank out through the ship's whistle! The whistle is operated from 100 PSI air. Sanitary tanks are blown to sea using 700 PSI air. If you opened and closed a detailed sequence of valves, probably had to bypass a check valve here and there, you could in theory get the poop to go up and out the whistle! I never saw anybody actually try it, but it was a good exercise to show you knew the pipes!

{ All air starts at 4500 PSI. It is reduced to 3000, then 2000, then 700, 100, and 20 } Various systems use each of these reduced pressures.

4500 = emergency main ballast tank blow
3000 = normal main ballast tank blow, pressurize hydraulic accumulators
2000 = torpedo ejection pump
700 = sanitary tank blow, sea chest blow down
100 = service air, including EAB ( emergency air breathing masks), operate snorkel head valve, etc.
20 = pressurize potable water service tanks.
 

Cass

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I got a great killer deal on the pre soldered fittings when they decided to stop selling them.

I just hit them with solder like normal because the melting temp of the presoldered was lower than what I normaly use. Haven't had any problems with them.
 

Cass

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I think I paid $.11 each for various 3/4" fittings.

At the time I could have scrapped them and made a little on them.
 

Cass

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I am going to guess that there will be a few lower elements replaced with the 5500W that will burn up the wireing inside the heaters slowly and eventualy cause the wire to not conduct any more. Almost 2 A greater than the rating on a #12 can't be good in the log run with the workout the lower elements get.
 
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hj

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Ph.D.

Claiming, or needing, the boost to the ego that a self-conferred Ph.D. would give is like the doctor's wife I once knew who always signed her name "Mrs. Doctor Jim Smith".
 
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