Hallmark Installation with Pitless

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TJanak

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Helping family install a 2 HP Hallmark in an older 4" pvc well. 297' total depth, 141' static level. Jetted 20-25 gpm. Plan to set the pump at 200' on 1.25" schedule 80 with stainless couplers.

I remember reading it may be good practice to install another check valve immediately above the pump. What is the best way to do this? Stainless nipple and stainless check? Brass?

He wants to use a pitless adapter. We don't normally use them down here. What is the preferred brand/style?

Can wires exit the casing near the pitless or do they need to run out the top?

What type of cap should be used if the casing will be covered in soil and not exposed?

Just trying to cover our bases before jumping into this. Thanks!
Travis
 

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Cary Austin
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Stainless or brass check valve is fine, just don't use any galvanized fittings. I would use a pitless module that just glues onto the 4" PVC casing. An insert piltess where you just drill a hole in the pipe may not leave much room for the pump in 4" casing. Wire HAVE to go out the top of the casing through the conduit connector on the pitless cap. Do not drill a hole in the casing below ground for the wire. Any good pitless cap will work because you also CANNOT cover it with soil. The casing needs to protrude above the grade by 18".
 

Reach4

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Are you sure that the pump you have selected will fit into a 4 inch casing? Not all Hallmark pumps will.

If you don't use a pitless module that increases the diameter at the top, you will need a pitless that is thruway/clearway type. You cannot use a trapezoidal pitless. One such pitless is the Merrill SMCK or MCK. Mine is SMCK.

Do not pull the wire tight, to allow for drop pipe expansion. Tape periodically. If using polyethylene pipe, get an extra-long barb and use 3 stainless steel worm gear clamps to hang from the pitless. If PVC, use schedule 80 drop pipe.

Casing should extend above ground more than rain and probable flood water can each. Laws for wells usually specify a minimum height above ground. That minimum could be 10 inches or it could be 2 ft.

Wires pass over the top of the pitless. The bottom part of the well cap will have a thread for 1 inch (usually plastic) conduit, and the conduit carries the wires down to the depth. The wires can be rated for direct burial.

You might want to get a finer mesh to supplement the included anti-vermin screen. I think I would go with 60 mesh to keep the smallest ants out. https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/blocking-tiny-ants-in-well-cap.100548/
 
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TJanak

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Thanks guys. I kind of figured the cap needed to be above grade with wires out of the cap.

Cary, can you recommend a pitless module that glues onto the 4" pvc casing? Not looking for frost depth (there is none), just ease of concealment.

Reach, yes made sure to order the pump for 4" casing. Looking on the Merrill website they don't show the SMCK or MCK, only other models that are for 5-8" casing. Some websites out of stock on the 4" SMCK. I wonder if Merrill quit making a 4" pitless?
 

Reach4

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Try these Google searches:
"clearway" OR "thruway" pitless
CW-4-10-WA
SMCK414

You would not want a pitless using galvanized. Brass or stainless are good.
 

Reach4

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You can also change from 4 to 5 or 6 for the last few feet of casing and have plenty of room for the pitless and pump.
Yes, I think that would be better.. But you would want the 5 or 6 inch pipe to be pressure rated or rated for well casing. You don't want foamcore DWV pipe for this. 6 inch would probably be easier to find.


https://www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-429-532E-6-x-4-PVC-Schedule-40-Eccentric-Reducer looks interesting... eccentric could put the pitless a bit to the side.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-429-490F-5-x-4-PVC-Schedule-40-Reducer-Coupling-Fabricated would be straight.
 
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